Part # for Behr 82C thermostat

Badabing! · Aug 24, 2014

I test drove an F355 today that I plan on purchasing. The drive went well but I noticed that the temp gauge did not come up to temp and was very much on the low side.

Based on recommendations and threads, the first thing I am going to do is replace the thermostat and ecu temp sensor.

I have searched this board high and low and while there are numerous references to a Behr 82C thermostat (that seems to also work in 328)' despite several specific requests by members, no one has identified the part #.

The best info I found is that you can buy from GT Car Parts in Arizona.

I am on the east coast and would like to source one locally tomorrow.

Can someone please post the actual part #?

Thanks

ernie · Aug 24, 2014

Trust me, if those of us that share info knew the number it would have been posted.

Badabing! · Aug 24, 2014

Ernie,

Thanks for the reply. Since I have your attention, wanted to ask you a question.

Recently you advised another Fchatter who was experiencing low coolant temps to "seriously" not drive the car till this problem was sorted.

How dire a circumstance is this?

I need to pick up the car soon and would estimate driving about 75 miles and a max of 2 hours in a combination of highway speeds and bumper to bumper traffic to get it home and then possibly a similar trip to get the thermostat done.

Should I be considering towing the car?

601 · Aug 24, 2014

Here is the link to a post with the part number.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/142723914-post11.html

Badabing! · Aug 24, 2014

else said: ↑

Here is the link to a post with the part number.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/142723914-post11.html
Click to expand...

Thanks for the effort. I did come across that post in my searches. Those are Ferrari part numbers listed.

I'm trying to find the Behr part #.

601 · Aug 24, 2014

Badabing! said: ↑

Based on recommendations and threads, the first thing I am going to do is replace the thermostat and ecu temp sensor.
Click to expand...

Unlikely the ECU temp sensor is bad. If the car is 1996+ you can hook up an OBD2 reader and compare the temp reading from the ECU with the temp gauge, which has its own sensor. If they match, as mine do, you can conclude both sensors are working.

Badabing! · Aug 24, 2014

else said: ↑

Unlikely the ECU temp sensor is bad. If the car is 1996+ you can hook up an OBD2 reader and compare the temp reading from the ECU with the temp gauge, which has its own sensor. If they match, as mine do, you can conclude both sensors are working.
Click to expand...

I agree with the logic. However, for a reason not clear to me, Gothspeed advocates changing this sensor as well and it's a $15 part so I figure why not.

ernie · Aug 24, 2014

Badabing! said: ↑

How dire a circumstance is this?
Click to expand...

It depends on if you consider worn out cats and burned up headers dire.

To save me a whole lot of typing here is a post I made about my thermostat.

ernie said: ↑

Last week I took my car to get smogged tested and it failed. In Cali they put you on a dyno and test the car at two different speeds. Here are what the numbers were:

maximum allowed readings
mph__HC__CO____NO
15___112__0.72__778
25___86___0.60__717

measured readings
mph__HC__CO___NO
15___158__0.74__467
25___117__0.58__336

I was over mainly on the Hydro Carbons, just barely on Carbon Monoxide at 15mph, and in the middle of the readings for Nitric Oxide

Before I went to test my car I made sure the cats were nice and hot, and when I got there I got lucky and was able to test the car right away. No time for the cats to cool off. After the failed test the smog tech told me that the car was running rich. So I went back home double checked everything, and then cranked the MAF settings all the way up to 950!! Went back and ran it again. NO dice. Failed. The tech showed me that the car was trying to lean out, but that the ecu was overriding and kept richening up the air/fuel ratio.

So now what? The MAFs cranked all the way up didn't lean it out, my crank sensors are new, the O2 sensors are new, the coolant temp sensors are new, the first time I ran it the MAFs were set to 383, there is even a new throttle position sensor on it, and the last time I had the exhaust off the matrix inside the cat still looked just fine. Yet it is still running rich. Hmmmmm???

Then I remembered a post gothspeed did about the 355s running too COOL!
AH HA!

The ECUs will adjust the enrichment of the fuel based on the coolant temperature. Per my shop manual, at first start up the initial warm up from 0ºC - 60ºC (140ºF) the ECUs will richen up the mixture, and gradually lean it out. After that point the ECUs switch to a post initial start up enrichment, and continue to richen up the mixture based on coolant temp and engine speed up to 80ºC (176ºF). Once the engine gets to it's steady operating temperature (over +80ºC/176ºF) the ecu's stop the enrichment process.

BINGO!!!

That last couple of months I have noticed that my engine had been running cooler than normal. It was running in the 160º - 175º while at highway speeds, and would get up to around 185ºish in stop and go traffic, until the fans kicked on (which is a 185ºF). I didn't pay any attention to it because I thought "Hey great the car is running cooler. It's summer time, the outside temps are in the high 90s and into the 100s. So it's a "good thing" my car is running cooler. Less chance of it over heating no?" WRONG! Because by my car running cool it was also running rich.

The next day, after the first smog test, I swapped out the old thermostat for a new one. Made sure both MAFs were set to 383, disconnected/reconnected the battery, let the ECUs go through relearning the warm up parameters, and when for a little drive. Took it back to the smog shop and put it to the sniffer test. The numbers dropped.

measured readings
mph___HC___CO___NO
15____124__0.69__451
25____89___0.58__349

Now I was only just barely not passing. By simply putting in a new thermostat, and because the engine was running at the proper temperatures, the ECUs were no longer dumping extra fuel into the engine, thus the drop in the readings. Though the 25mph NOx did go up a little bit. My guess is because it's running leaner. However, because the engine had been running too cool/rich for several months my cats were working overtime to try and burn up the excess fuel. So they got worn out = I need me some new cats to pass smog.

The lesson here kids is, DO NOT ignore your temperature gage, ESPECIALLY if it says your car is running cool. Now with the new thermostat in my car, the temp on the highway is right in the 190º range. Running happy as a pig in mud.

Oh, one more thing. When the car was running too cool I did notice that my gas milage dropped. I was getting about 20-21mpg highway out of it. When before I was getting 24-26mpg depending on how much my foot was into the loud peddle. So make sure your thermostats isn't worn out, and if it is, CHANGE IT!
Click to expand...

On top of that the 355 is INFAMOUS for burning up stock headers. Wanna take a guess as to whyyyyyyyyy.............??????? It is my opinion, and some others, that all the unburnt fuel in the exhaust causes the exhaust stream to stay "lit" , meaning the extra fuel that didn't get burned up in the combustion process is finishing that combustion in the exhaust system. Now mix that with sub quality materials and *presto* headers that get glowing hot because of too much fuel and thus start to deform and melt. I have see first hand the insides of a metal chore cat MELTED DOWN because of too much fuel in the exhaust.

Having said that, you could replace the cats with straight pipes, thus eliminating the catalytic converters getting destroyed. But then there is the issue of the headers getting way hot and melting. You could drive it, get lucky, and everything goes fine. Nothing melts or burns up, car makes it back home and too the shop no issues. Or...........you get back home and too the shop, and then we see a post asking, "what are all these white hairs in my engine bay", or "I got a check engine code P0422 & p0432".

Place your bets.

ernie · Aug 25, 2014

else said: ↑

Here is the link to a post with the part number.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/142723914-post11.html
Click to expand...

And there it is.

Thanks for sharing.

Badabing! · Aug 25, 2014

Sounds like I should be having it flatbedded straight to the shop.

Thanks.

jimmym · Aug 25, 2014

Great post Ernie. Well detailed. Great job with the explanation.

F355steve · Aug 25, 2014

This is the main reason I have Fabspeed headers and test pipes on mine. So far I have replaced the thermostat and both coolant sensors and am still running cool. I bought some OBD II software to monitor the sensors in real time. Hopefully that will provide some insight as to what to do next.

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Part # for Behr 82C thermostat

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ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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Part # for Behr 82C thermostat

Badabing! Formula Junior

ernie Two Time F1 World Champ Lifetime Rossa Owner

Badabing! Formula Junior

601 Karting

Badabing! Formula Junior

601 Karting

Badabing! Formula Junior

ernie Two Time F1 World Champ Lifetime Rossa Owner

ernie Two Time F1 World Champ Lifetime Rossa Owner

Badabing! Formula Junior

jimmym Formula 3

F355steve Formula 3

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ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
Lifetime Rossa Owner

ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
Lifetime Rossa Owner

ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
Lifetime Rossa Owner