Alternator failure after rebuild. Please help?!

Just go to an alternator supply/rebuild shop and order it. Be sure to specify that it can ONLY be that regulator because I have had a few shops bring me out a Transpo and tell me it's spec'd the same. Despite what they will try and tell you INSIST on the USI regulator. I have had to explain a couple of times that the other regulators have already been tried and end up failing quickly.

 

The car is question is a 355, correct? It seems to me that at some point in the past, we discussed at least one 348 that had a broken wire, or broken pin, where the chassis loom attached to the engine loom (near the top of the LR suspension tower as I recall, at least on the 348). Perhaps you are chasing a wiring problem, rather than an alternator problem. Just a thought. Good luck with it.

 

Can someone tell me the OE alternator number from a 355...

Something like......100 211 0325....but need the actual one

Is the alternator the same as a 1991 Toyota Celica?

 

It is not the same; the Celica alternator would need the pulley replaced with the original (too small for the 355's rev limit), and one mounting hole...the upper hole (when mounted) needs to be enlarged to be the same size as the original. Once you've done that, it's an exact fit and is quite a bit more compact. Also, the output stud is a bit smaller (8mm vs. 10mm), so a shouldered copper washer is recommended. I spun one on my lathe in about 10 minutes.

Try the Ultima part number 15657 from O'Reilly auto parts; this is what I installed on my car. $165.00.

Again, you need to do three things: 1) swap out the pulley with the one from your original Ferrari alternator, and 2) enlarge the upper mounting hole to match that of the original, and 3) fashion a shouldered copper washer to ensure the best contact at the output stud.

 

Thanks

But...

I just need the OE number of the alternator from a 355 so i can order a new rectifier from the UK.

 

Here ya go bud.

The 6-digit number on top is the Ferrari part number. The 10-digit number middle right is the Denso number. Denso do not sell this to anyone but Ferrari; it's a condition of the supplier agreement. I worked there, and I couldn't even get one.
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It will technically still work, but it might not be as vibrationally stable as the 10mm, and therefore not as reliable. That's why I did the shouldered washer.

I tend to agree with you (although you don't know for sure unless you test) that it's likely a heat failure and it's likely the regulator. But...right?

 

I really think that the best solution would just relocate the voltage regulator to a cooler place...

 

Nice

Thanku v much