Secondary air pump operation

I took my air pump out to change the gauze filter and just to ensure it was working properly I hooked it up to a power supply and it seems like it has a timed output when connected to constant load. Can anyone confirm this and that it is normal?

It seems to run for 7 seconds off for 11 seconds. Repeat.

 

Lol!!!! Bob, just got done testing mine with a PS too. The motor draws a lot of current, your supply probably does not put enough out. The motor has a 15A fuse.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Does it run constant?

 

Yes, but it was pulling my supply down. John told me to use the battery but I only want to check it is working. I opened it up prior to be sure impeller was not bound.

PS, I'll post the filter media later.

 

Bob, like Dave said, your PS may not be able to handle the current draw. Assuming the PW is protected it may be the thermal over load cycling the PW on and off.

 

I'll plug it in the car. I think it was bound up also or the ps initially didn't have enough oomph to start it as it just hummed. Spun it and now it spins but cycles.

 

Probably overheating and kicking out. It is a cheap motor with even cheaper bearings. All in a yellow box with a ridiculous price tag.

 

Mine runs constantly when I start the car and once it cuts out, after about 5 min it does not come on again.

 

I'm thinking the same. I'll hook it up to the car if it doesn't run continuously I'll take it apart and see what's up

Is the consensus that it should run continuously?

 

Not sure I fully understand your question. Yes, if under power it should run continuous . In operation (in the car) it only runs during warm up to feed fresh air to the CATS.

 

Everything I have heard over the last ten years says it runs constantly until the cats come up to temp.

 

Continuously as in out of the car hooked up to a power supply it should not cycle as mine does

I m aware of what it does insitu but I was wondering if the cycling I am seeing is built into the fan motor. That was my original question.

 

Grant, I don't think it runs more that 20 seconds or so. I'll double check. I used to think the sound was the F1 pump. Manual guys probably can't hear it since they can start the car right away while we need to wait for it to boot up lol. Tomorrow I 'll unplug it to verify it's the sound I think it is. (High pitch whinne)

 

1. I park my car in neutral. I can start it right away. Yes, my parking brake works perfectly.

2. My air pump runs exactly 2 minutes on start up. It does nothing but pump air to excite the cats.

3. I have never changed the filter...now on my to do list.

 

I just squirted some pb blaster in the intake. The impeller spins freely but still cycled. Either it's the power supply kicking out or something internal is amiss

 

Here is the filter media. It needs to be doubled up as you will see the original was too.

McMaster-Carr

 

Bob, unscrew the impeller cover and check it. Then test with the car battery.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Mine is definately more than 20 seconds but I will time it tomorrow and post for sure.

 

I've had the impeller cover off from square one. I'll separate the motor seam next if it cycles with the battery connected to it.

 

Took the fan to the car and plugged it in and started the car and nothing. Looked in the fuse box and it has a 20amp fuse in there that is good, so its been changed in the past. Plugged and unplugged the fuse and relay, no fan.

Took the DVOM to the plug and on unplugging the plug the fan came on. Wiggling the plug its intermittent. Looking at the pins it appears as if there has been issue here in the past.

I am not sure this fan was ever operating in my tenure. I honestly dont remember hearing the whine that people talk about and when I took it out last night I had to turn the impeller to get it started on my inadequate power supply.

I am thinking that it got stuck in the off position on the bad plug and allowed a freezing of sorts to occur on the fan. I'm going to change the plug and the pins and keep an ear out for the fan now.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Bob, that plug looks melted. If it is I would say there is something wrong with the pump motor. The 20 amp fuse would also suggest it was blowing the correct 15 amp fuse. Again, pump drawing too much current. I don't know if you can get into the pump motor but if you can you might try spraying it with WD40 to loosen it up. Run it off the battery after to check and dry out.

 

That's exactly what I did john with bp blaster. To get at the motor itself you have to pry open a seal that I didn't want to mess with. I removed the four screws that would allow that and pried a bit but it wouldn't just ppi open so I sprayed where I could under the impeller hopefully on that shaft area only

You were right about the ps though. It must have a protection circuit in it that cuts it out.

Now that I know the details of this I'll keep a good eye and ear on it. I'm thinking that maybe the whole electrical line to this fan is under sized , fuse, wiring and plug that led to the melting. The fan seems to run fine but maybe it just isn't as robust or oversized amp wise

 

There are two issues which can feed on each other. First, a motor on the way out. Since a motor draws higher current when starting (rush current) if the motor doesn't come right up to speed it will draw that higher current longer which could result in a blown fuse and excess heat generated in the plug.

On the other hand, a degraded alone contact would reduce the voltage across the motor causing it to start slowly, again resulting excessive rush current, blowing fuses and generating excess heat in the plug.

These can feed on each other. In either case the excess current heats the plug which would further degrade it making the situation worse, ultimately severely melting the plug and perhaps damaging the motor (also form excessive heat generation). The fuse is there to prevent that. Even a correctly rated connector will fail if too much current is passed through it. Anyone who uses a 15A extension cord with a 20 power tool knows that (yes, I mean me, and I should know better).

Replace the 15A fuse with a 20A and instead of blowing fuses you end up with damage to the plug and maybe the motor.

I would replace the plug and put in the correct 15A fuse. If the 15A fuse blows then you most likely have a motor on the way out. Also, don't be surprised if the fuse doesn't blow immediately. It can take a number of cycles if the over current if each cycle doesn't last long.

 

What fan are you referring too?

I'd also guess that the pump motor pulls to much current when the filter is clogged. The filter media is pretty thick so it's probably a bit restrictive.

My 15 amp fuse is intact.