The stitching on mine is a neutral color. My seats weed refinished and the difference is imperceptible. It has been two full seasons and the pigment and color have held up great. There is a bit of a sheen on the outside bolster on the drivers side only. Interesting to note the post someone made of the airbag label. Look at his stitching on the beige part of the dashboard. Either they used matching thread or it has been refunishec
The stitching color is very close, but it is different. It does not photo well. I'd probably consider a re dye on other parts, but I want the seats perfect. Also, my driver's seat is so bad, some stitching is worn through and would need to be re stitched
Had the visors on a shelf and forgot about them...cleaned and conditioner applied. Waiting for my allen security bit set so I can remove airbag then dash. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well my Allen security bit set came today. On my 98, the air bag screws are torx security, on the 95 they are Allen security - I screwed one up because Inassumed they were the same. Never assume.... Image Unavailable, Please Login
The rest of your stuff has turned out well so I would expect the same. How does a dash get that dirty?... Robb
Well I was planning on recovering my upper dash (black) and was a little optimistic that I could save the lower dash (beige), however it's not cleaning up to my liking and the leather is also a bit tired. So, once I can build a shipping crate, the following will be off to Coach Trim for new leather: - upper dash - lower dash - passenger airbag - instrument cluster surround - seats (driver and passenger) All other leather has been very well cleaned and conditioned. I only need to touch up very minor scratches Image Unavailable, Please Login
Euro lens cleaned and ready for trade with GerryD for original amber lens Image Unavailable, Please Login
best thread on FC! Used your rear panel removal guide today! saved me a lot of time! thanks again Dave!
Question to you Dave... Do i need to losen the rear bonnet wire to remove handbrake panel? if so... is it easy to re-install the vire again?
Hi Fredrik, Here is the deal - the removal is much easier than the install. Removal: 1) Open bonnet and removal the latch dog from the bonnet 2) Remove the latch mechanism from the body (this will afford the cable slack you need) 3) Remove all screws from the leather e-brake surround 4) Lift the bonnet release and remove the screw (single Philips head) 5) Pull the entire bonnet release sub assembly out of the e-brake surround (it will only come out an inch or two) 6) Remove the screw (straight slot head) that holds the cable into the release sub assembly Now the sub assembly will come out freely. Installation: 1) Modify the release housing by slotting the cable hole (see photo) 2) Release the cable from the latch assembly so you can pull some slack. 3) re-connect the cable to the release lever 4) reverse the order of the steps above 5) adjust the cable (note - this is why I told you to remove the bonnet latch dog) do all of your initial adjustments by using the dog not attached to the bonnet coz if the latch mechanism is not set right you are going to be screwed trying to get the bonnet open. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks Dave again for your help, just what i thought to... need to remove the front opener also... not fun it seems...
I've not removed that (yet) but I'm sure it's the same process. Remove the hood dogs so you don't get the hook stuck closed - that would be even worst as in the rear, at least you could reach up from the bottom.
Dave, while your in there give a look see at the HVAC gaskets and seals. They tend to get garfed up a bit if they were not aligned correctly at some point Nothing like good AC and Heat
