what is that pressurized bubble? I haven't seen one yet in person: what it should avoid? Thank you very much ciao
Thanks, Harry. I'm a bit sckeptikal about that, as inner temperatures will follow the outside environment temperatures and so will do humidity: i think they just have an air filter and a blower, no thermal source at all. I think they are great against dust and scratch, but i do not think they can avoid or just reduce the corrosion process. So i will keep my car cover. ciao
The point of an air bubble cover system is to maintain an airflow over the car, heat does not come into it. Cold air is fine as long as it's moving, the problems arise with still cold air as the moisture it contains then sits on the metal and forms condensation, and obviously that's bad news. Until you've seen a bubble system in use and felt the power of circulation the fans produce, you don't realise how effective they are, I'm very impressed with the way mine works.
Thanks, Mike. But i'm still skeptical. To do a good thing you should dry the air inside the bubble, lower the Oxigen concentration by adding Nitrogen and keep the bubble at the same temperature 24 h a day. Then no more corrosion. I know it's too expensive and the bubble is already a step in the right direction, but i think it's by far more effective (just in my own opinion, of course) against dust than against corrosion. ciao
The Carcoon eliminates condensation from developing due to variations in temperatures. This is why the outside of a glass sweats when filled with a cold beverage. The variation between the inside temp and the outside temp creates condensation. The same holds true for any other item including a car. The carcoon prevents the condensation from occurring with the constant flow of air around the car. If you place a wet car inside a carcoon, it will be completely dry in a matter of minutes!
No real need for the car cover once in the bubble, correct? I keep my car in the carcoon with the windows down about 3" for interior air circulation. As well the humidity levels in the bubble is constant between 40 & 50%, which is okay for the leather. For me it works great separating my Fcar and daily driver especially, when my daily driver brings in all the winter crap into my garage.
You are right, that phisics: ok. But the corrosion is not outside (where the device create a costant airflow) but is inside (typical, inside the doors), so its not so easy to have an air flow inside those hidden places. I would like to park the car (during winter) in a dry place with constant air temperature (at least +18°C) 24h a day: that's the best you can do and you will be sure no condensation anywhere, never. But of course that bubble helps a lot. I'm just saying that maybe it's not as good as you think. ciao
Correct, no need that I am aware of. The car was stored outside the Carcoon for a period of time and I wanted to have some protection, which is why I have both.
I would say that it's probably the best situation that you can hope to have minus the car being in a very controlled environment that has constant temperature and humidity levels.
One of the rad fans had stopped working. Took it apart and found the carbon brushes were gone. Replaced the brushes, reinstalled, plugged in and tested. Worked great except, blowing the wrong direction!!!! Redid the wiring connectors to reverse the motor, everything is good. Just think, all the time the motor was working, it was blowing the wrong way. Also fixed front running light, bad ground.
Wired the parking light circuit to the key buzzer so it will remind me to turn off my lights if left on when I open the drivers door. '82 GTSi Tonight I will wire the oil pressure light to the same buzzer. Noise is always good as the light my not be noticed.
I found out how long the band-aid extender with shrink tube trick would last. About a year ago the extender for the #2 looked suspect so I put shrink tubing on all the extenders per a suggestion I heard somewhere. It seemed to cure the occasional misfire so all was good. Last week after getting a misfire again I first looked at the rear bank, and especailly #2 and all looked good. As I get ready to replace the wires (unknown age) I found the shrink tube on #8 blew up (see pic). Rather than complete the spark plug wire repair I tried just a good wrapping of electrical tape on #8 extender. The misfire is now gone and she runs as good as ever. So the lesson here is that the band-aid sucks and I need new extenders. I was getting ready to buy them from SP and I see they only have red ones for the GT4. Does anyone know if there any difference between red and black other than color? Thanks! Paul Image Unavailable, Please Login
Still working on the modern oil pressure sensor adaptor with AKimmel. Calibration code/algorithm is written and in testing with a prototype circuit. Waiting for some shipments from Mouser electronics and some other items.
Started putting everything back together after doing valve clearances and cam seals and a bunch of while I'm in there Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login . And some newly powder coated parts. I needed some more red on my white QV
Lovely warm day today in the Dallas area. Took the car (Mondial) for a little drive. Let my 27YO take his fiancee to lunch in it. Then treated the leather to some conditioner.
I had the same thing a few years ago in a continuing saga of cooling system problems. Couldn't just swap the wires around because they weren't long enough. Morning tea called. Looked at the wiring diagram & saw that power went in to the opposite sides of the motors. Back to the garage & swapped the motors side-to-side. Perfect. The motors are handed !
