Vintage Chronograph Collecting (60s/70s)

My post from another car forum. Spent 2001-2008 collecting.

Chronograph collecting tip:

You want to buy the "engine" or movement and dont worry about brand on dial. Many 1960s-1970s Swiss watches have exact same movement as the Omega, Heuer, Breitling, Tudor, Longines and even Rolex Daytona for like 10-15% of price.

Sorta like buying a sports-car with small-block chevy or 911 flat six.

The movement names are all made by three factories, and you can still get parts and service by any good watch maker.

Lemania
Cal./Buren
Valjoux

These three movement factories were later bought by SWATCH and ETA.

So....in ebay do a search checking in "description box" and these gems will show up.


Also, names of long gone/obscure but top quality Chronograph & Diver brands/models:

Nivada
Bucherer
Wittnauer
Certina
Doxa
Glycine
Tissot
Roamer
Dugena
Aquastar
Aquadive
Jenny
Edox
Oris
Zodiac
Richard
Hamilton
Croton
Zenith
Sinn
Yema
Seiko 6139 auto chrono
Seiko 6138 auto chrono
Candino
LeJour
Baylor
Belair
Wakmann (Breitling sub)
Gruen
Caravelle
Favre-Leuba
Enicar
Wyler
BWC
Lanco
Eterna
Vulcain
Squale

-Servicing: Dont buy into this "gotta have it serviced ASAP" bs; I have NOS watches from 1970 that I bought in 2001-2006 and used for 10yrs and they still keep perfect time.

-"Padding-collection": you will get urge to just fire-off a bunch of bids and fill up your watch-case and wait for the mail; or buy some "beaters" to knock about on weekends or projects to restore (dont do it; chronograph service starts at $300!)

This can get out of hand; esp at the $150-300 price point; in no time you have dropped $1500-$3000 on your collection.

Keep your initial favorites; then cull the collection.

Draw up a list of what you want:

-early 60s chronograph
-Big Pilot chronograph
-Specific brand (ie, Omega)
-Specific style (military, gold, etc)
-Grandads/Dad's watch
-NOS: like new, perfect, vintage

Stick to this list; and you will get them.

Buying 1-4 "filler watches" is same as getting your "reach" watch


I have bought over 100 Chronographs on a rolling basis; from $100 Seiko to $3500 Zenith El Primeros. Cut my collection down by 40 watches to buy '12 C6; 30 more were buy/sells; and own 30 today

Keep in mind:

"On ebay, your super-rare, hard to find watch; will show up again, usually in better condition, and for less!"

Buy accordingly.

 

Great list. I have a LeJour with the v72. They used to be very inexpensive to acquire. Still relatively reasonably priced ; however, prices are on the move. Two other great under appreciated vintage chronographs are the Delbana and the Sears Tradition.
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Great list. I have a LeJour with the v72. They used to be very inexpensive to acquire. Still relatively reasonably priced ; however, prices are on the move.

 

Nice summation. Thanks.

 

Nice list and post. I am collecting mechanical chronographs for about 20 years now.
Not only a special decade.
45 Chronographs from $ 200,-- vintage Citizen chronographs up to Rolex Daytona and IWC Da Vinci.
My small collection is still growing.
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My latest additions to the collection - missing in the pics above:
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Could you tell me a bit about a few of those watches in post #5 and maybe provide a better individual picture?

1st picture, 2nd row from top, 2nd watch from right
1st picture, 2nd row from top, 4th from right
1st picture, 2nd row from top, 5th from right
1st picture, 3rd row from top, 1st watch from right
4th picture, 3rd row from top, 1st watch from right

Even if you could just tell me the brand and model I'd appreciate it as I can look them up from there. Thank you.

 

Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph
steel, full skeleton movement.
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IWC Da Vinci Chronograph with perpetual calendar, 18kt yellow gold
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Maurice Lacroix Calendar Chronograph Val.7751
steel and gold plated
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not a very nice one - no name labelled as Jean Jacot
Valjoux 7750
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Thank you. That Maurice Lacroix, the IWC, and especially the Chronoswiss are beautiful!

 

Kayvan, nice post thanks.

Michael, great collection, I like your taste in watches.

 

Here is another pic of the Chronoswiss with its sister model - skeleton and full dial.

The Maurice Lacroix and the IWC Da Vinci are both beautiful but there is a very big difference in the price. The IWC is about 10 times the price of the ML. the Chronoswiss Opus is in the middle between them.
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I started with that Yellow Seiko 6139-6002 Yellow dial Seiko Auto Chronograph

Its a mechanical chronograph on par with Swiss makes in robustness.

They go for $300-1000 for NOS.

You can still find them for $125-50 with battered mineral crystals/bezels; change crystal/blue-red tachy ring and they are like new.

Recommend all try these first, as it teaches you alot about chronographs with low entry point.

 

German Ebay

I found 50% of my watches on German EBay Elektronik, Autos, Mode, Sammlerstücke, Gutscheine und mehr Online-Shopping | eBay

The prices are 30% less, esp, w current Euro.

I found almost all my NOS there, and sellers were always super honest and helpful, throwing in extra band or going back to findind '60 box/papers in attic.

Many would even accept american checks and ship before it cleared.

Swiss, Austrian, Dutch ebay sites as well, sometimes link to Ebay USA listings

 

Michael,
I have the Chronoswiss full dial, chronograph chronometer you picture. I bought it in, I think, 1992 and am the original owner. I am thinking of selling it. When I look at eBay there are many Chronoswiss watches for sale but only one of these for sale and it's from Israel. I do not recall, but was this watch rare at the time. It seems to be rare now. What I don't know if this is good rare or bad rare, i.e., do people want this watch or not want this watch? Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.

 

I have always loved that watch.

Certainly one I don't get to see much in my current location.

This is my Lemania Chrono from the mid-50s to early 60s.
It has football shaped pushers and runs very well.
Someone once told me that the movement would later be the base (architecture) for the PP chronograph movement, but I have no idea if that is or could be true.
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Michael -

First pic. Bottom row. Third from right side next to the Rolex. ?


Please post price ranges when discussing models..

 

Sorry for my late reply. The similar model is still in production at Chronoswiss. The watch is rare but not as popular as Rolex, Breitling, Omega ...
only few people will recognize a Chronoswiss. i think this is a good thing.
the watch will sell in the 2.000,--€ range with box and papers.

 

Chopard Mille Miglia Chronograph - limited Edition for Ennstal Classic (the most important classic car event in Austria). Only 20 pieces, mine is 15/20. 1/20 was donated to Sir Stirling Moss. i love the "20" instead of the "12".
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The Limited Edition was fitted with this leater strap. The rubber strap on the pic above was fitted by me later for the summer months.
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Thank you for your reply.
And I admire your watch collection!

 

Can somebody tell me about this watch? I know it's a winder and the company was aquired by Breitling, but that's it. Thanks in advance!
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