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Questions during my engine out service

Discussion in '308/328' started by Low Ride, Feb 8, 2015.

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  1. Low Ride

    Low Ride Karting

    Jan 20, 2010
    63
    Ontario, Canada
    Full Name:
    Guido Benvenuto
    #1 Low Ride, Feb 8, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Wondering if anyone could help with this... I am disassembling parts getting ready to pull the engine for some head work and I have some questions for those who traveled this road before me. Questions as follows:

    1. Can the head bold be re-used or are they "torque to yield" requiring replacement? It seems they can be re-used but want to make sure.

    2. Is there a trick to getting to the nuts on the headers? On the rear bank, I can only see 4 of the 8 and it seems almost impossible to get to them between the head, gearbox, and and the insulation around the header. Any ideas would be appreciated.

    3. I have read through the threads and it appears that the front headers must come out when the engine is tilted and moved forward but if I have not read this, I would say that although tight, it should be able to come out with the engine. Has anyone tried this or am I just getting too hopeful?

    4. When I took out the oil cooler, I noticed that the hose connected to the cooling coil swivels freely. They did not leak and I am wondering if I tugged on something and screwed it up. I attached a picture of the cooler coil with the hoses...I am pointing to the joint in question.

    5. Does anyone know what this part in the picture is? It is located on the driver's side front bank next to the oil filter. It isn't in any schematic I have and can't figure it out.

    As always, thanks for the help.
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  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    BANNED Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,822
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #2 Steve Magnusson, Feb 8, 2015
    It's a (pneumatic) electrovalve that controls the diverter valve of the air injection/EGR system -- see item F, Fig 65, page 73 of the 216/81 US OM.

    Yours has already been disabled/mucked with ;)
     
  3. MNExotics

    MNExotics F1 Rookie
    BANNED

    Dec 13, 2010
    2,631
    Good Thunder
    Full Name:
    Ben Gruenzner
    #3 MNExotics, Feb 8, 2015
    1) the heads use studs and are usually reused

    2) get a set of ratcheting wrenches with a swivel head

    3) what you read was correct and you should pull the fuel tank as well

    4) when you run the engine next you will know

    5) Steve covered it

    Being an I car pull all of tha accessories off of the rear panel when you pull the engine
     
  4. Mike Florio

    Mike Florio Formula Junior

    Jun 19, 2003
    599
    NW Rural Nevada
    Full Name:
    Mike Florio
    #4 Mike Florio, Feb 9, 2015
    1) Agree on the studs and nuts, but you might want to replace the washers.
    2) Loosen the front header nuts you can get at before moving the engine. Then as you are rotating the engine out the front header can be removed at half pull. Alternately you can remove the passenger side fuel tank, slightly raise the engine and wiggle it out through the wheel well. But if you are removing the engine anyway I think the first method is easier.
    3) I'm not sure you have to remove the fuel tank. They come out much easier if the engine is out.
    4) That oil cooler hose you are pointing to doesn't look stock. It should have woven metal sheathing like the other one. Perhaps the PO changed it. I would replace it with the correct hose.
    5) Steve is da man.
     
  5. waymar

    waymar Formula 3

    Sep 2, 2008
    1,354
    Northeast, PA - USA
    Full Name:
    Wayne Martin
    #5 waymar, Feb 9, 2015
    #4. That hose is a stock hose. My 82 had tha same hose including the band. The stock replacement is the same way. No stainless cover on either.
     
  6. pad

    pad Formula 3

    Sep 30, 2004
    1,426
    Tequesta, FL
    Full Name:
    Paul Delatush
    #6 pad, Feb 9, 2015
    #3- no reason to remove the gas tank. With the engine connected to the engine hoist, remove all engine mounts and let the engine shift towards the rear of the car. Then disconnect the front header and remove it. You may need to begin to raise the engine to get the header out, but at that point, you'll figure it out.
     
  7. R.Robot

    R.Robot Formula Junior

    Nov 7, 2010
    350
    La Quinta CA.
    #7 R.Robot, Feb 9, 2015
    My hat is off to you guys.
     
  8. MNExotics

    MNExotics F1 Rookie
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    Dec 13, 2010
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    Ben Gruenzner
    #8 MNExotics, Feb 9, 2015
    I pull the tank for access to the header nuts and accessories as well as cleaning. I am also 6'2 and don't have the smallest frame. So you maybe able to do without pulling the tank.
     
  9. Mike Florio

    Mike Florio Formula Junior

    Jun 19, 2003
    599
    NW Rural Nevada
    Full Name:
    Mike Florio
    #9 Mike Florio, Feb 9, 2015
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2015
    Sorry. On my GT4 both hoses have braided SS coverings. I should have noted my comments were specific to my recent experience pulling a GT4 engine.

    I also noticed that the crossover pipe junction hose on this car is braided SS and is secured with spring clips. Is that stock? It's plain rubber on my car, and I'm having a heck of a time sourcing the hose for those short connections and the longer one from the Air cleaner and the oil vapor separator and from the crossover pipe to the oil vapor separator.
     
  10. Low Ride

    Low Ride Karting

    Jan 20, 2010
    63
    Ontario, Canada
    Full Name:
    Guido Benvenuto
    #10 Low Ride, Feb 9, 2015
    The SS braiding on the cross over pipe is not stock. I replaced most hoses and they looked too simple so I purchased braided hose sleeves from JC Whitney. They also carry a variety of hose clamps that look and perform better than the usual stuff.
     

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