Can find brake flush...couldnt find coolant.
I like supertech for coolant it never failed me in all makes and models. I use a coolant testr and flush every two years. Mercedes benz orange is the absolute best on the market. Have you ever looked inside a motor that ran this coolant exclusively ? Never a sign of corrosion , but I never tried retrofitting it into another make (would have to thoroughly flush the system first). For motor oil I use Mobil 1 always. Diff/gearbox - Mobil 1 syn or valvoline gl5, my current one has swepco 201, its a little thick when cold but otherwise seems the same....
You can use Valvoline Zerex G-05, get it at Walmart or..... It's the substitute we can use in our Mercedes vehicles, works just fine.
My research suggests (and I maybe wrong) that there is a chemical difference between green & orange (Dexcool) coolant. Make sure you read up on that before deciding which direction is best for you and what the hazards maybe of mixing them.
FWIW, I am a big fan of BMW coolant. Years ago (many) BMW had a lot of radiator problems. Phosphates in the antifreeze reacting with the AL (Al phosphate) and killing the rads. They developed the BMW antifreeze and the problem was fixed. Whatever you use, make darn certain it is phosphate free and safe for AL rads. I would guess most stuff is nowadays. I have used the Orange Dexcool in my Fords and it seems to give a residue over time. I dont know if it is just more visible than the BMW antifreeze, but I never see that with the BMW stuff. Of course I change my BMW fluid more often than the Fords!
As Watson said above, the key seems to be not to mix the two colors. I have seen first hand two Vettes that did and it turned in a Jello type consistency. Not pretty and hard to clean.
I think you can mix G-05 with green. That's what I bought and I'm guessing there will be some residual green in my system.
Supertrch and peak mix with ALL colors. That's why I love it. Never had a gelling issue I use it in a fleet of cars for top up and flush. Mercedes Benz coolant is THE gold standard.. Google it.
No tricks the coolant tank is the highest point in the system. There is a bleed valve on top of thermostat to be used if you can't burp it with the cap off. Run heat while burping too.
I changed mine , no burping, no fuss, no drama. Some of the respected techs on here suggested BMW and that's good enough for me. It's not a big deal to do. It is messy though. Promise.
That's what I heard. Some guys said they put a little kids blow up pool underneath . Did you do yours on a lift or jack stands?
Seriously? Just when you think you heard it all. The mental picture is kinda funny though. I have done mine twice now. It is a mess, but it is no worse than prying hoses off of radiators as in my old Brit cars. I put down a plastic tray designed to hold winter boots. It catches the stray streams that seem to show up. Be careful with the plastic radiator plugs. In fact, buy a couple extra from Daniel just to have on hand.
Did you do a fluid exchange or full flush? I mean did you run it with distilled water and drain it a couple times. Then add new antifreeze? Also wondering if I should change the thermostat?
When I first got the car I dropped all the radiator fluid. Refilled with just distilled and ran it around the block a couple of times. Drain & refill with BMW fluid. I had a hose rupture last year and ended up draining everything just to be safe. Refill & go. Unless you suspect the T-stat is bad, leave it alone until your next major. Since you asked about plastic drain plugs....If you snap the head off...as is common from time-to-time. Heat up a flat head screwdriver and stick it into the stub being careful not to hit the threads. Twist & remove.
I have a lift. Thinking back on this, the biggest PIA was getting the rubber plugs hiding the radiator drain plugs back into their holes. Reminds me I need one new one as I destroyed one with a screwdriver trying to get it in. What is the suggested method for putting those things back in besides just messing with it until you get it?
It just takes care and slowness to prevent crossthread. You have to make sure you are perfectly lined up too. It is like putting implant screws in. Careful no force predictable advancement. You can also use the trick of lining up well then turning CCW and feeling the click of the threads riding off each other then going gently CW. Try that on an implant. There are some implants very precise and well engineered that screws go right home even when you are in odd positions with difficult access. Then there are some implants companies where the screws are trickier to screw in. I'm sure you know what I mean.
