348 spark knock?Please help | FerrariChat

348 spark knock?Please help

Discussion in '348/355' started by Moravian, Apr 13, 2015.

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  1. Moravian

    Moravian Rookie

    Aug 16, 2011
    15
    Czech Rep./Germany
    Full Name:
    Martin Zachovaly
    Hello Forum Romanum,I want to please You for help..My car started to knock....Major service done last month(timimg,injectors etc etc).After cure it was another car-much stronger(timing was bad)better torque,no more problems with hot starts.After 500km on 95 octanes was still everything ok,BUT than on the same day:I filled ca.40L Shell Nitro 100 and drove cca 200km on the Autobahn(180-250kmh) and than I heard (in the city)between 1500-3000/min knocking sound from the engine(not trany,not shaft etc).It is also not rod,not puley,no valve,no water pump...It occurs ONLY under load(also uphills with constant speed).On idle you have to push gas pedal really brutally fast to hear it a little bit.Water/oil temp.normal,oil pressure normal.My exhaust tips are white,not light brown,really white.The car idles a bit high(about 1100-1200/min.cold or warm).I tried to disconnect the battery,but no change.I dont know what happend.I did some research and I think my car is running lean and it seems to be a spark knock.I tried to disconnect the fuel regulators-but also no change.What should I try next???No other symptoms as smoke from exhaus,bad starts,oil pressure drop,oil consumption etc.
    My car is one of the very first cars from 1989,pre production TB without cat,with "old seats" and with motronic 2.5,about 57000km.
    I thank you very much for every reply,every idea and help..!!!!
    Martin

    ps-sorry,I have to improve my english...
    ps2-I saw thread from 2010 "1991 348ts running rich" but I can't load it
     
  2. John_K_348

    John_K_348 F1 Rookie

    Sep 20, 2013
    2,754
    Boston, MA
    Full Name:
    John E. Kenney
    Hmm, I'm not an expert by any means but the old Motronic may be part of the issue. I would check the plugs as a next step. I am glad I found that I was low on oil when I changed it on Saturday, and can't believe I ran it a few times over the winter without checking! Pull the airbox and check the plugs. Are you thinking the ecu might have "learned" 100 octane fuel? That was quite a run. Oh yeah, let it cool down and listen again. Maybe heat soak?
     
  3. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,614
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    Something has your timing off.

    I would start by checking the crank position sensors. Make sure they are in good working order, that the connectors are in good condition, are clean and free of oil, and that the wiring under the connector boots are in good condition. Make sure that the crank sensors are properly spaced 0.35 - 0.90 away from the teeth on the crank. This thread goes into more detail http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/482115-348-crank-angle-sensor-resistance.html
     
  4. dfranzen

    dfranzen Formula 3
    Owner

    Aug 31, 2013
    1,577
    Ponte Vedra Beach , FL
    Full Name:
    Don Franzen
    I had similar issue with a bad spark plug extender

    look at your engine running at night or dark and look for arching from your wires and plug areas
     
  5. Moravian

    Moravian Rookie

    Aug 16, 2011
    15
    Czech Rep./Germany
    Full Name:
    Martin Zachovaly
    Many thanks for Your replies and help!!!I will check all hoses on the intake for air leak.One interesting think-my mechanic told me that there is a large "gap" (some 4-5degrees) between crank and cam puley.But I saw video on Youtube "Ferrari 348 cam belt service" and in part VI at time 4:12 was told "cam puley is not important for timing,just crank" and than in part VII at time I think 6:50 can I see that the crank moves few degrees before the movement comes to the cam puley and cams.My mechanic told me it might be problem...Do You have experiences with this issue????
    Thank You!!! Martin
     
  6. whyte

    whyte Formula Junior

    Apr 25, 2006
    409
    Merritt Island, FL
    Full Name:
    John C
    Change or check your spark plugs before you do anything too crazy.

    Had one plug fouled, and the car ran rough, and sounded like a stuck valve or a knock. Happened immediately after some spirited driving. Plug was fouled. Never would have thought one plug made such a difference, but it did.

    Good luck.
     
  7. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,614
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    Your mechanic is correct.

    What is important is the crank position AND the position of the cams. If your engine was not timed properly it won't run correct. Your cam timing should be verified.
     
  8. dfranzen

    dfranzen Formula 3
    Owner

    Aug 31, 2013
    1,577
    Ponte Vedra Beach , FL
    Full Name:
    Don Franzen
    Your major was a month ago?

    Is that when your mechanic noticed the issue?
     
  9. Moravian

    Moravian Rookie

    Aug 16, 2011
    15
    Czech Rep./Germany
    Full Name:
    Martin Zachovaly
    You are correct,for timing ist important cams vs. crank.But how it is possible,that you can move with the crank(pistons) to the left or right for 4-5degrees before cam pulley and cams moves?My mechanic did not know,where the correct position is(clockwise to the right???)He did it so as the engine is under load,chain between crank and cam pulley fully extendet)He did the timing correct with cam pulleys off,with TDC and degree wheel,BUT than comes the "gap" crank vs. cam pulley.You can see this in the film "348 cam belt service" in art VII at about 6:50.I am not mechanic,but I thing this is it 4-5degrees is too much.Maybe the outlet valves are opening too early when the temperature in cylinder is too hight and my exhaust coloured to white.
    Martin
     
  10. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,614
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    I think what you are describing is the cams being advanced or the cams being retarded. Either that or the cam overlap. Both of those are related to the cam timing, and vary based on where the car was originally delivered.

    What year is your 348, and where was it originally sold?
     
  11. Moravian

    Moravian Rookie

    Aug 16, 2011
    15
    Czech Rep./Germany
    Full Name:
    Martin Zachovaly
    My car is from 1989,pre-production car,VIN beginns with 81xxx,version without cat,with old style seats.I tried other cars,all with cat,but this one was in the best condition and this car was also significantly stronger and faster.
    Before major service had I hot starts problem and it was running little rough-the problem was in injectors(now after rebuild ok).The car has X ost exhaust(before Remus) and KN filter.And I have no problems with high speed floating-very strong wind,curves over 200kmh on the Autobahn without problems,as stable as an M5...I absolutely love the 348,no other car makes more fun!!!
    What I wanted to describe with my bad english is-when you look at the timing belt:you can move with crank a few degrees to the left or right before the chain moves with the pulley where the timing belt is(this pulley is maybe some cca 15-20cm (some 8inches)above the crank and is with the crank connected with chain).I dont understant how can you set the timing correctly when there is 4-5degrees "gap".You can see this on youtube "348 cam belt service" part VII at time 6:50
    Many thanks Martin
     
  12. Moravian

    Moravian Rookie

    Aug 16, 2011
    15
    Czech Rep./Germany
    Full Name:
    Martin Zachovaly
    My car is from 1989,pre-production car,VIN beginns with 81xxx,version without cat,with old style seats.I tried other cars,all with cat,but this one was in the best condition and this car was also significantly stronger and faster.
    Before major service had I hot starts problem and it was running little rough-the problem was in injectors(now after rebuild ok).The car has X ost exhaust(before Remus) and KN filter.And I have no problems with high speed floating-very strong wind,curves over 200kmh on the Autobahn without problems,as stable as an M5...I absolutely love the 348,no other car makes more fun!!!
    What I wanted to describe with my bad english is-when you look at the timing belt:you can move with crank a few degrees to the left or right before the chain moves with the pulley where the timing belt is(this pulley is maybe some cca 15-20cm (some 8inches)above the crank and is with the crank connected with chain).I dont understant how can you set the timing correctly when there is 4-5degrees "gap".You can see this on youtube "348 cam belt service" part VII at time 6:50
    Many thanks Martin
     
  13. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,614
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    Ok, I understand what you are saying now. I just finished watching the part in the video you where talking about.

    When I timed my cams I rotated the engine at least 4 complete 360º revolutions before I checked the cam timing. I also made sure I had constant pressure on the belt to keep it taught when I double check the timing. You do NOT want to rotate the engine counter clockwise, ONLY rotate it CLOCKWISE making sure the slack has been fully taken up in the belt, and the timing chain.
     
  14. Moravian

    Moravian Rookie

    Aug 16, 2011
    15
    Czech Rep./Germany
    Full Name:
    Martin Zachovaly
    The timing was done correctly.Today I will check spark plugs for condition and colour- have new NGK. I can also prove MAFs-they should have about 342 Ohm resistace(for non cat car).And I will check the knocking sound with Stethoscope.Maybe I can also try to use some octane booster.
    Many thanks for help,have a nice Weekend!

    martin
     
  15. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,614
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    Octane booster is only going the hide the problem. You need to fix what is causing the problem. Something is causing your car to knock/pre-detonate and you need to find the cause

    Good luck.
     
  16. Moravian

    Moravian Rookie

    Aug 16, 2011
    15
    Czech Rep./Germany
    Full Name:
    Martin Zachovaly
    I reseted ecu's(battery for few days off,than idle for 15-20min).The cold idle was much better,but as the temperature rised,the idle was going to be rough and wenn the car is really hot(after 15miles) it sounds like old marine engine.But after ecu reset:there is no more knocking at idle.Just under load on the street.The car feels also weaker,it has lost much torgue between 2000-5000/min.And the car misfires and jerks(most between 2000-3000/min).
    I will change crank sensors,ignition modules,coils,temperature sensors ,spark wires and and.....???
    I hope it will help!!!
    Thanks ,Martin

    PS-the injectors are fresh rebuilt
     
  17. Moravian

    Moravian Rookie

    Aug 16, 2011
    15
    Czech Rep./Germany
    Full Name:
    Martin Zachovaly
    Yes.He was not sure,but he did it right:cam wheels were off,because the factory marks are not precise enough.He turned the engine clockwise to get everything to max. extension(chain,belt,pulleys)-to simulate engine under load(as Ernie wrote).Immidiately after service the car runned fantastic,much better than before-stronger,above 2000/min. significantly more torque and above 5000/min it just flied to 7000...
    So,I thing,the problem is crank sensor,coils,ign.modele etc...
     
  18. dfranzen

    dfranzen Formula 3
    Owner

    Aug 31, 2013
    1,577
    Ponte Vedra Beach , FL
    Full Name:
    Don Franzen
    did you change your plug wires with major service?

    1) make sure the wires are connected to the spark plug properly,,,while placing wire onto plug there will be a slight resistance then you will feel it "snap in place"
    if no "snap" it may be a bad connection

    2) in the dark turn engine on and observe if you have any arching from wires and into plug wells

    your symptoms are very similar to what I experienced after major with new wires and I had a bad spark wire extender
     
  19. whyte

    whyte Formula Junior

    Apr 25, 2006
    409
    Merritt Island, FL
    Full Name:
    John C
    The ECU reset improvement, loss of power in the 2-5k band, and misfires suggest something in your emissions system.

    When the car is started, you are running in open loop. The ECU is ignoring your emissions data and following defaults.

    Once your car warms up, the system is using data from sensors to adjust your advance and fuel. This is where all sorts of things can go wrong.

    If you open the throttle completely, the car again ignores the emissions system and goes back to a default program. At least, the 2.7 does. I suspect the 2.5 does as well.

    Try unplugging your O2 sensors and your MAFs, then seeing how the car runs. This will force it to use default maps, and while not ideal, should be in the ball park enough to avoid misfires. If your car runs better, there is a strong indication you have something out of whack in your emissions system:

    1. O2 Sensors are common sources and easy to test with backprobing
    2. Temp sensors (manifold) are another source of data, easy to test with backprobing
    3. Your TPS will be a switch I believe, so that is easy to test also.
    4. MAFs. I can tell you with 100% certainty that your resistance readings on the MAF can be in spec, and your MAF can be broken beyond belief. I have one on my shelf that looks perfect, dialed in to the spec resistance, and the car runs like a diesel truck with it installed. Try to source another one. They are hard to find, and some that are similar in form, have different response curves, so be wary.
    5. Grounds. Make sure your ECU isn't resetting mid-drive. That can cause some crazy stuff.

    Good luck friend! You'll figure it out.
     
  20. Moravian

    Moravian Rookie

    Aug 16, 2011
    15
    Czech Rep./Germany
    Full Name:
    Martin Zachovaly
    Thank you very much for reply!My car has from factory no cat,it is from 1989,pre-production car.So a have no O2 sensors and many other things...(does anybody know how much 348 were originally without cat????)
    I will clean my MAFs and I also bought coils,plug wires and crank sensors(everything from 16th century... ;)
    I will post result after changing few things.
    Thanks Martin
     

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