Throttle sticks

Seriously, you sure no matt is in the way?

I have had both hard to push and incomplete return due to matts.

 

You may be about to break your cable. It is possibly fraying and the little strings of metal cable wire are jamming things up.

A friend with a 328 had this happen here in town and he lives in Atlanta. The cable finally broke trying to make it move.

 

You may be about to break your cable. It is possibly fraying and the little strings of metal cable wire are jamming things up.

A friend with a 328 had this happen here in town and he lives in Atlanta. The cable finally broke trying to make it move.

 

Upping the post-count with Dups, Tommy?

 

What Tommy said.

Also the throttle bell crank can seize on its pivot.

 

I had similar but opposite problem before, instead of hard to push, mine was having a hard time coming back. Once I push, it will get stuck to about 4K rpm. And this is what I discover at the pedal end. My suggestion is not to drive the car as the cable may snap anytime.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

If it's been sitting and not driven often, I recommend removing the bracket that surrounds the pedal, then oil up the hinge at the bottom, also I recently lubricated the cable itself. Ultimately, the aftermarket passenger floor mat was creeping over and creating just enough resistance...But the parts needed oiling too!

 

Trying to catch you!

 

Spray lube on the half moon shaped thing where the throttle cable connects in the engine bay. Fixed mine.

 

Good idea.

After he replaces the cable.

 

Funny thing...my pedal had been sticking on my Dino (which has been in storage for a long time) so, reading this thread I tried some wd40 on the engine bay throttle part...and then worked the throttle a few times and said...cool, it's not sticking anymore!!!

But although actually the pedal was moving freely, unbeknownst to me, it didn't really come back all the way...so...when I finally got the car started in that state...it went for max RPM until I shut it off, like as quick as I could...(I know, I'm a dumb *** sometimes, huh)....

Anyway at least I felt a little better when I looked and saw that I have the 7000 RPM rev limiter resistor installed now...(a little better anyway)...and obviously I need to check more things, like the pedal and cable etc...and just do things right....

On the positive side, the leaky carb front gasket was just apparently just dried out, and has stopped leaking now for quite awhile...(although I'll obviously keep a close eye on it still)....

 

308 Brothers,

Its fun replace the cable and clean the unit!

Rob
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

100% - this is what is happening. the cable gets frayed and parts start to catch on the inside of the lining and or at the pedal connection.

when you change the cable - i lubed mine up with graphite podwer lube used for HO trains. it does not collect gunk etc.. and keeps it very smooth. you have to do this with the cable out of the car... replacing the cable is not hard - but not really fun either. there is an S shaped channel in the fire wall that has to be navigated ....

 

I think you should get it up on stands and check it. There are several threads her on how to change the cable and it is easy you drop it down the s tube from the back first. You do not want it to break. Recently at an FCA lunch near me a guys old v12 broke a cable and he drove home to LA using a dog leash on the carbs, can't see that working on the GT4!