I had my major done over the winter. It all seems quite good. The car runs and drives perfectly...until it warms up. After I have been running for 10 minutes or more, the car can select all gears without a problem...except first gear. I can run all day in 2 - 6...but if I (or the car) try to select first it just goes into N and I can not select first...and I am stuck. I can however, select reverse. No beeps. I can hear (and feel) the actuator trying...but it will not go into gear. Clutch is in good shape. Worked fine prior to the service SD computer was used to set and bleed the system after the engine service. Any guesses?
The computer will tell you. A service should not require any intervention on the F1 system and this supports the philosophy of leaving sleeping dogs lie. It is possible there is an actuator alignment or centering issue, possibly bleeding. Going to need a computer to diagnose/fix.
There's a centering procedure in the service manual but it looks like a pain in the ass. I was thinking about removing my actuator to get my car into neutral to do a compression test, but the guy helping me (former Lambo tech) said don't even think about it because his experience in centering the eGear actuators is that it's a real pain in the ass. I hope it's nothing major.
that does not include draining the F1 fluid and adding new hydraulic fluids would it? the techs here and the ppl i talk to here say the same thing, of leaving sleeping dogs lie...i wanted them to change the F1 fluids in my last major and they advised me against it...
The centering procedure is straightforward and the steps are described here: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/143871251-post64.html (also in the WSM obviously). It will likely succeed for you and select first just fine during the procedure only but still not select the gear on the next attempt. I think it will almost certainly need to go back into the SD to correct. Regarding changing the F1 fluid, just replace a bit at a time and always replace with an identical amount. Over 5-6 drives, you can change out most all of it without removing any more than what is in the reservoir. Also no risk to the system by allowing it to run dry. Good luck, the F1 system requires patience at times.
Not that i would do this unless i was desperate but you are not stuck. Select automat ic and slippery mode it will slip the clutch and take off in second then use the paddles. The reason i would not recommend this is being as this is a manual you do not know whats causing the first gear problem. If you knew for sure it was the actuator or the f1 pumps or hoses then by all means use it, But it could be mechanical within the box thus i ould not recommend doing this. As Brian allready said just take it in.
I have a whole transmission available if you find you have internal issues. Pretty cheap as well. Hope its something simple.
Thanks folks. 0.0.1.99: I have tried that centering producer a million times in the past 5 years and it has never worked on my car. I am not alone and no one seems to know why it works on some cars and not on others. Weird huh? TR512: Yes. New motor mounts on all four corners. Over 1" of clearance now on the actuator bolt from the cross member. Does show just how worn my old mounts were. But alas, not the problem. Lakeforest: Did my Indy shop a favor and looked at it with the SD. They did not provide a list of what ever error codes they saw. Clutch has 46% wear left. They then declared (in less than 5 mins) that the "composite actuator rod is broken and it requires a new actuator. They can get me one for $10,000." Composite actuator shaft? WTF is that? $10k? I can get the actuator rebuild for $2500 in 5 days or less. Car back at the shop and they have done far too many things to it to try and fix without an SD. Tran light is now on solid. *sigh*. Time to take it home....broken and beaten, after an $11,000 engine out,. Nice. Poor car. Who in the Midwest has an SD computer that has some integrity? Might be heading to Bradan otherwise...
Watson, I am sorry to hear all of that. It's the reason why I don't own or plan on owning any F1 gearbox. Good luck to you.
Thanks. But please, let's not turn this into another F1 / 6 speed thread. I know what I bought. I know what the challenges are. It will get fixed. I am happy you like your 6 speed. Let's leave it at that folks.
Not sure. But they have no idea what they are looking at or what to do. I would need to guide them through it. Doubt Bergstrom would be real keen on me doing that, or being in the service area for that matter. I can ask though.
f1 is great system, and I owned both 6 speed and f1. I agree with rifledriver, leave a sleeping dog alone. It is unfortunate you spent $11000 on a major to have a car that is now a paper weight due to trans issues. I would raise hell with the shop if it can be proven as their fault, but alot of components are touched when you take the motor out. Delicate things...collateral damage. The motor mount is extremely close to the actuator, when they changed those I would be weary of any pry bars or wrenches slamming it. This is why you should only change what is needed on the car, no need to rip them apart.
I thought Motion Products had SD? I know that Reina in Milwaukee, GT Motorsports in Pewaukee and Personalized Auto (former LFSC guys) in Kenosha do not.
Motion Products unlock codes expired a week after my engine service was "done". Nice. Al at GT Motorsports is THE guy to go to...but he does not have an SD computer. He uses LFSC for SD work. Do not know the guys at Personalized Auto.
Because it does not center the actuator. Centering the actuator is physically adjusting it using a couple of factory fixtures holding the shift shaft in conjunction with the computer holding the hydraulic shaft. You need someone with an SD1 or 2 who knows 355's. There is no short cut.
Based on the "let sleeping dogs alone" approach, is the board's raecommendation to not change the F1 fluid using the SD, rather do the periodic suck it out of the resovoir and replenish method ?
Who is the board? There is half a dozen people here that can properly answer that and we are not a board. Getting a board opinion is what leads to most of the problems. The best information available would be to consult your mechanic.
I agree. It could be a simple coincidence then that the car now has an issue. The mount on the drivers side has a pretty close proximity to that actuator.......
I have always been told that the F1 actuator window of proper adjustment is abot 1mm fore and aft. This is why the SDx is necessary. You could try loosening all bolts on the actuator mounting plate, then shifting from N-1-N to realign the placement relative to the gearbox, then tighten the bolts back down. I just went thru this (no 1st gear selection) after replacing the rubber boot covering the actuator rod and after screwing with it for two weeks, took it to the dealership for centering. Cost was $350 or so for 2-3 hours labor. I was also able to complete the self-learn, centering procedure but not the IO calibration since the first step there is selecting first gear. I knew going into the boot replacement that it would likely require a visit to the SDx to complete. I only wish there was more owner diagnostic info available for the F1 system. Good luck and feel free to PM or give me a call to discuss. I feel your pain. Ken
Id like to hope they system isn't able to be "bumped" and cause and issue. Its not that dainty. A service was done, Unfortunately that doesn't mean parts wont break at will when they please. Just like a owner losing it two years later after say a PPI, like the PPI can look into the future and tell when issues will happen. It broke it sucks I am sure there will be a happy ending.
