NEW MODEL KIT THREAD

Hans, I completely agree with you about the Mini Delta having a better overall shape, and it does have excellent detail for a curbside.

Thanks for mentioning about the rivets..... I can't tell from the photos, but I thought I could see some cast in place rivet detail. Are you 100% certain that there is not rivet detail on this?

 

100% sure, saw the modell in Paris. There is a small dent where every rivets needs to be glued. Patrick also told me they developed a new kind of rivet, with a small indentation in the center of each rivethead, like it is suposed to be ;-)

The minidelta kits are curbside, but i have never seen more accuracy and quality in a kit.
The appearance of a minidelta (or other de conto) is simply stunning!

The only small point of criticism is the shiny perfect paintjob on the finished prototype.
A car like this didn't have a perfect paintjob in its racingday. Its more realistic with a rougher shine.. (but thats me..)

 

Thanks Hans. I know the Mini Delta model has the rivets. I was asking about the MFH P4. The MFH kit is the one that I wanted to know if it had rivets or not......

 

Wow, that does look compelling.

-F

 

I think part of the problem with the windshield frame on the Hiro kit is that the frame is a light color in the prototype photos but on the real car, it is dark and very thin and sits under the windshield. So as a result, the frame on the model appears to be high and a little too bulky. Maybe when it is painted black it will appear to sit lower.

Conversely, to my eye, the proportions of the roof line of the the Mini Delta P3 appears to be a little on the low/flat side.

Lastly, it looks like the frame and all of the support structure on the Hiro car is metal and the body is resin so it looks like there is no load applied to resin parts so there should be no concern for sagging. It does look like this model will be heavy. But that is not a bad thing.

Those shots look right.

-F

 

Looks nice, but still issues, though not terrible. I like it, but not enough to grab one. I'll wait for a P4 Coupe if they make one, which they probably will.

 

My only issue is with the mismatch of the panel lines. They aren't flush. What's up with that? Hopefully they're improved in the production version. Otherwise, they will have to be filled and sanded smooth so they are flush.

-F

 

These cars are very difficult to get right..

To illustrate this, its like when I saw 0858 in Paris last year, the hiro just doesn't feel right..
Great modell, but not convinced..

The P4 is one of my favourites, and I have/had a lot of P4's made (in miniature)
Its shape is one of the most beautifull designs ever..

This is a picture of the Joel Fumey P4 thats under construction in my "garage".
Its made using the measures of the P4 of Bardinon 0860
It "feels" much better. (allthough 0860 also has a recreated body)
0900 (David Piper) has the original 0860 body, Talacrest had 0858 rebodied by Piper last year using 0900 as a master, so they messed up 0858 or 0900 is a mess..

A few facts to illustrate how difficult making a P4 is..


you tell me
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Wow what an Interesting Thread!

I have modeled a highly accurate Lamborhini Countach LP500s that I am hoping to 3D print ( I got a desktop personal 3D printer, an Ultimaker 2) I want o print it at 1/4 scale! I have already tried printing the spoiler at 1/5 scale.

if successful, how much would the print be valued at? I know that it is nothing but plastic, but then I can make molds for parts and make it of harder resin or something.

Any ideas?

More pics here:
http://www.fb.com/jnvsuals
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Thanks for that! I guess I will make just a one off for myself - It'll be fun

As for 3D printing material, it will cost around $200-$300, plastic is cheap, around $40-$50 per kg. If I go ahead with it I will share my progress

 

Hi all, I just rec'd my SMP24 Maserati Ghibli resin kit, does anyone know if the resin needs any prep before painting, like to remove mold residue or anything? Thanks, Dennis

 

Thanks...i can see you're not a big fan!! i really wanted a 206s in 1/18 and a 312p, but apart from mg model don't know anyone else...i don't like theyr's 312p...and i don't like the cmc version either, so i guess i will have to wait for someone else....

 

The real deal!
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For the uninformed, that's the 48-valve version; the 36-valve has the intake trumpets higher up, about where the spark-plug wires are in this photo.

Of the cars of that era, only the Eagle-Weslake and the Lotus 49 rival it in good looks!

 

I would definitely fill those rivet pits in and use Archer rivet strips since the rivets are so small in a 1/12 even.