Ok so I've finally got some time at home and installed the rebuilt clutch I got from plugzit. I did not change the TO bearing or do anything to it at all since it seemed fine before my clutch started slipping. It all went together realy nice but after I got it done I got in the car and pushed in the clutch. It feels like a rock like pushing on the brake or something. I have not started the car as I am going to install my new exhaust and wanted to check with you guys before I did anything. What do you guys think the issue could be? Seems really odd as I did not work on the TO bearing or any of the hydrolics. I checked the clutch stack several times to make sure it was all correct. Any help would be great.
Did you bleed the clutch/brakes? IIRC, you have to after removing all of the clutch internals. I know I had to after redoing all of the seals, etc. in the pumpkin. Sounds like the problem, unless something is in the wrong place and is creating a blockage.
No I have done nothing on that side of things. It seems like the clutch is already pushed in and can't go any more. Is the TO bearing self adjusting on these and need backed up for the new clutch? I did pull the housing on the last 1/4 to 1/2 an inch.
I got my wife to help me bleed it and it's still messed up. When you crack the bleeder the pedal depresses nice and pumps fluid, close the bleeder and let it up and it sucks fluid from the reservoir ect just as it should. Try to depress the clutch with the bleeder closed and it's solid like the TO bearing won't move. I guess I'll be pulling it all back apart tomorrow. Hopefully I can find the time.
Check your pressure plate diaphragm. I had mine bust a few years back and it was as you describe, hard as a rock. Pages #2, 3 and 5 in this link show what my busted pressure plate looked like. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q-sponsored-algar-ferrari/296274-348-clutch-removal.html
Yes I replaced twin disc with twin disc. The one I got from Bruce was rebuilt but looks like brand new parts. The pressure plate came with the kit and looks like it has a new spring diaphragm. I couldn't see any signs the fingers has ever touched a TO bearing. I did not check stack height. I put it together and slapped it in. Hopefully I will be able to pull it apart tomorrow and see something obvious.
I seem to remember having the same problem, and it was just fluid/air pressure causing the (rather extreme) stiffness. Took a few times to get the bleed right, even after we thought we had it -- maybe give it another shot? Hopefully, it's just that and not a cracked spring or something equally heinous!
Yup see post #7. The WSM has the spec for the disc thickness. You might have discs that are too thick. That's easy, any clutch guy like "Friction materials" can grind it down to spec.
So I really screwed up. I don't mind sharing my mistakes and hoping someone will learn from them and not go through the same thing. Well last night I optimistic installed my new exhaust so this morning I thought what the heck I'll fire it up and see if I can figure out any more clues. Soo she fires up and something is grinding. I dropped the exhaust, removed the clutch and disassembled it in about 45 minutes. I don't Know if getting experience at tearing things apart again and again is a good thing. Anyway, all the set up was right but nothing will spin in the housing. The fly wheel was hitting the housing. When I started messing with the clutch pedal I did not have the little horse cover on and it was actually pushing the flywheel bearing out of he housing. The whole assembly slid back and the TO bearing was hitting the stop. I actually broke the little roll pin. I had no idea that bearing would press out that easy, I am replacing the horse cover with a nice billit one and did not want to put it on until I had the exhaust on so I wouldn't damage it. Stupid. I'll post pictures if I can get a computer working. Plan now is to clean up everything good and make sure there are no aluminum shavings anywhere and try this again. Im not 100% sure this was my only problem but it's the one staring me in the face right now. If I don't get this working today it will probably be next winter the wy my schedule has been going.
Argh. This car hates me. Got the bearing back in place and the assembly all back together. Just needed to replace the little roll pin for the TO bearing stop. It was bent and when it tried to pull it out it broke off flush. Went to drill it out and my bit snapped off in there. Now what?
No joy on getting this drill bit out today. I had to abandon it for more pressing things. Thank goodness I have the 355 to drive. (fingers crossed) Looks like if I did the hill bearing I'll have to buy the flange too as mine seems to measure 82mm. Do they give a f-chat discount?
Dang it. I just held my breath, grit my teeth and hit the buy button a little bit ago at full price. Almost $1400. Now I might have to sell the new Nouvari exhaust.
Those need to be tapped out with a drift punch takes 30secs then you buy another roll pin at the hardware store $0.25.
Do not sell that Nouvolari exhaust! I just got one for my 94 348 Spider and just love the sound not to mention the good quality and craftsmanship. You will be bummed to the max if you sell it.
So I got my HE flange and bearish today and had a little time so I installed it all. Now I have no clutch. I've bled half a gallon through it and am getting no air bubbles. If I close the bleeder and pump it real fast I get a bit of pressure but it goes right away once you stop. When bleeding it pumps a full stream of fluid when you pump it down and of course sucks from the reservoir when let up. Did I mess up my master cylinder when I was power housing the clutch before? What do you guys think? Thanks for any help.
You may need to deadhead the clutch master cylinder. You can see how I did it on page 3 of this link. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q-sponsored-algar-ferrari/372483-348-throwout-bearing-removal-3.html
Thanks Ernie. I just did that, blew out a bunch of air, and now I have clutch pressure so the master cylinder is ok. It is very low in the pedal and is not disengaging the clutch 100%. I'm going to do the dead head thing again and then bleed the whole line some more after supper. It is starting to look promising though.
Damn this thing. I have bled the hell out of it and now I have a firm peddle the whole stroke. Firmer then I think it should be. It still will not disengage 100%. What now?
