Coolant leak.

I noticed yesterday I have coolant leaking on top of the engine in the valley under the plenum I see many hoses running through there. After 12 k at the shop I took the car back and was told the clamps are loose and will continue to do that as they are new and will need tightened often??????????????? Am I an idiot is this right???????? Huh????? So off to the shop again. I was told after a week it was done no more leaks but keep checking clamps???? I got it back from the shop and had time to finally drive it around this weekend and then I notice a leak in the valley again. So I start to tighten clamps and they are all loose?????????? What the heck? So I tighten all of them I can see as tight as I can get them I still have a leak in the valley any ideas????? Also I can hear a whistle or something to that affect as I drive does this sound like a bad tensioner bearing???? Or does my Mondi engine whistle???? I can't explain it kinda sounds like a pissed off weed eater.

 

Did they replace the clamps or hoses too? I learned my lesson a long time ago that not all name brand hose is created equal and neither are clamps. I rehosed a couple of cars with Dayco hose instead of Gates. The cars kept turning into water sprinklers because the hose kept shrinking and allowing the clamps to loosen. Happened on 3 or 4 cars before I realized why. Have never bought Dayco hose since.

 

I anticipate this sort of thing when I first looked at the cooling system schematic. Resembles a nuclear reactor. So. The very first thing I did was change the glycol/water ratio from 50/50 to 60/40. It can go to 70/30. Added a few onces of barsleak/lubrictant. Then depressurized the system. Just enough tightening to keep from slopping out the expansion tank.

Two years later and going on 11,000 miles have not added one once of coolant. And that includes many days 90F at 2000 ft elevation and vigorous driving. Actually, the only time the temps rise is at idle anyway. The fans come on at indicated 230F which is just under the 235F indicated boiling point for unpressurized 60/40.

 

WOW for 12 k one would hope the shop would use the best. So many lessons learned on my first Mondi. So now I need to take all hoses and clamps off and put the best ones they make on there? Well that sux I should have done the engine myself. On the bright side I sure had a lot of fun this weekend I put over 100 miles on her and what a blast it was there is nothing like a Ferrari. She ran cool at 195/198 even in stop and go traffic. But I did notice she was hard to start after stoping at a store or for lunch? All in all it went except the whistle in my engine and the ghostly loose coolant hose apparently due to being insufficient for a super car engine.

 

I would bring it back to the shop and have them fix it

 

At this point I'm not sure I want it back at that shop this is the third go around and everytime it takes 3 weeks and cost another grand that's how it got yo 12 k it was 10 when it was done with the major service. Took back twice and both times it cost a grand I think I will just realize that I need to do the work myself as all of you guys do. not just to save money but to know that my Mondi has the right parts and everything is done to my expectations.

 

Or find a better shop. There is good and bad in every business. Getting a bad meal has not stopped me from going to restaurants.

 

Grease Monkeys! Go to another garage, this sounds like a poor show...

 

Agreed!

 

most times shops often fit and clamp these hoses dry, and say "it's good enough"

personally, i always swab a bit of silicone gasket sealer on my rad hoses. it fills any imperfections and enhances the seal for longer durability (mainly from crapy hoses).

 

Wow that sucks , Never mind (didnt have the background story)

 

I will replace the hoses myself. Ilanned on doing all mechanical work from here on out anyhow. I just wanted to get it all running right then I will maintain it all myself. I guess I'm starting with hoses and clamps.

 

Rodney:

Look up Breeze Aero Seal clamps. All stainless, very reliable.

When space permits, I use t-bolt clamps (also made by Breeze). The t-bolt clamps are sleeved so that they don't pinch or cut the hose. They also provide uniform clamping force.

I have never had an issue with these clamps, ever. They are about as good as it gets.

 

You learn something new everyday.

 

Sorry to hear this Rodney, I'm not sure, but if you just paid 10k to service the whole engine the workshop has to do some fixing and that I mean for free. It is a common place for leaks, but this only leak if it has not been touched or that the pipe was bad and didn't got replaced on the T part.

It is manageable to do it yourself, but I would call the shop first that it is leaking. Doing things yourself first will void your warrantee I guess.

If the pipe is beyond rotten bad, which is not unusual you will need to take off your intake manifolds. Beware of the plenums as they hold little spacers that easily flip into your intake.

 

Does anybody use silicon hoses? Or just Gates rubber? What's the opinions here?

 

my experience with silicon hoses on old cars is not good as often the tube or where it goes on is not smooth enough. You really need to fasten the clamp tight with silicon hoses. Gates or any other rubber hose closes off better.

My 2cnts

 

I have silicone for the big radiator feed and return lines, no problems. Silicone hose absolutely requires special clamps. Everything else is conventional hose per MvT's reasoning.

 

I use standard rubber, looks original, seals better on old metal, good for another 30 years

 

So just standard rubber? How bout those fancy steel braided lines. It looks nice but does it hurt originality?

 

fancy braided shield just covers your issues and its not stock if you go for judging

 

I'm in the find a better shop camp. I used good quality hoses and after replacing them all and clamping them tight I haven't had a single leak for 5 years. I did it myself. I hate the idea of changing all hoses. I'd think if clamped properly they should be mostly good for their life. Maybe a touch here or there. Did they replace the hose from the center of the valley to the expansion tank? That is what appears to be the least frequently changed hose and thus goes bad at the age of our cars.

 

Oh yes sir both tunnel hoses are brand new. All hoses are new and most clamps are new they appear to be everyday run of the mill autozone clamps nothing fancy. I agree with hidden problems on the braided steel I will stick with original looking hoses. I will try just good clamps first then resort to changing the top end hoses. Just sucks that this was not thought of by a qualified lambo Maserati Ferrari mechanic I did not check the shop credentials however there were Porsche BMW Jag in the shop and all the shop does is exotics and high end imports so I figured they might have a clue. You live and learn if that's the only problem I have then I am more then happy change clamps

 

Now any ideas on the whistling noise I here in my engine do bad bearings or tensioner a whistle or does the v8 non QV have a whistle sounds as it runs and excellerates. I can't put my finger on it. Sounds like a pissed off weedeater. It don't sound bad just don't know if it's the right sound as my Ferrari is the only one I have ever driven or seen up close for that matter. Forgive me guys my ignorance is of a new owner.

 

does the whistle go away after warm up?

I have a slight whistle with a cold car with new belts and bearings nothing once warmed up

there are threads in the 308/328 section that will help you