Testarossa Alternator Replacement- Please help

Not sure what 2 bolts you undid on the alternator but it is very simple to take off once you loosen the tension off the belt, there is one long 6" bolt that you need to remove the head faces the firewall. Your two wires belong to the water thermoswitch. Learn to use the search function it is your friend. Search "red wire thermoswitch" and you can read all about those two wires. Also, did you download the manual for your car? I just finished my engine out service, had the alternator bearings replaced and bench tested also replaced the pulley as mine car is an early version with the Shi*ty v-belt and small pulley this only cost $80. If you can't find what you need using the search shoot me a pm and I'll email you a bunch of pictures.

 

Pretty simple as Jeff points out. Photos may help. Hopefully you removed the forward engine grill and "U" shaped body panel--otherwise you'll never get it out. The pivot bolt is a PITA because it hits the aluminum radiator tube and won't come out enough to get the alternator out. I ended up removing the two LH side motor mount bolts and jacking the motor enough to gain clearance--may sound intimidating but it isn't--simple task. I still had not much room and ended up separating the plastic cooling hose housing (careful--fragile) from the alternator then I had enough room to remove. Only other key point is to get the spacer shim/washer back in the correct location or your pulleys won't line up. Good luck.
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Tim, this is PERFECT ! This is how we would like all problems explained to the newbees, thanx !


Q: in photo #5, the part just above the spacer washer / ring .... should be "moveable" or how you say that in proper english? (copper in the alloy)

In f.i. BMW or VW, that is the part that "adjusts" the space between alternator and pivot ...

In those EU cars, we normally "force" it outwards before installing the alternator (ring and a big screw); it will then set itsself by fastening the pivot.

Any info on this one here ? Did you make it go outwards ? Are you aware of this ?

 

This might be elementary but when have had eclectic problems I always look at the voltage regulator as well. Bench testing an alternator before instillation is always a must in my book especially if it was in a TR due to the nightmare position.

The Voltage Reg is part of the Alt on a TR correct?

 

Yes, the VR is built into the alternator. The shop that rebuilds yours will be able to check it after repairs. Here are the parts they replaced on mine--two bearings, the voltage regulator and then "trio".

Generally you test output while on the car with the engine running. Since you have it removed, an auto electric shop should be able to check--Autozone and other parts stores have a "bench" that can spin it up but I can't say I trust those guys to get it right--their desire is to sell you a replacement.

Before removal the belt was tight, the positive battery cable at the alternator was tight and the 2-wire connection was clean/tight? The battery charged to capacity with no errors? You said this was a replacement--it had a same or better specs than the original? Also, the battery positive cable sub-frame disconnect (in the red Anderson Power Pole connector) was clean & tight?

Honestly if I went as far as you had I'd just take it to a reputable rebuilder and let them go through it. My rebuild was ~$85.00.
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Mel--not sure I understand your question but if in reference to how to adjust the belt tension, here are the steps for a TR. Not sure about 512TR though...
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My English was not sufficient, sorry ....

In the mountig of the dynamo/alternator is the hole where the bolt slides through ... (my arrow) ...

In most EU cars, that is a bronze or copper sleeve that can move in the alloy, to set the dynamo.

It should be not be fixed and we force it outwards ...

When tightening the screw ity will go back and close any gaps that may be there ...

Did I explain right now ?
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You did Mel, and don't apologize for your English, you do a great job. On the TR that is a steel bushing pressed into the aluminum fitting--it does not move. Every thing gets clamped together when the pivot bolt is tightened. Even more reason to ensure the spacer shim is installed!

 

a shop rebuilding alternators without a bench?
strange - very strange ! ! !

 

It should move Tim its function is now clear I hope ...? .... but as most older parts .... they rust ...

Attached a parts list of VW, you can see the loose bushing ...

Try at a breaker to find a VW or BMW part and just look at the same construction ... we oil it ... (looking = free in my country )

Romano ... was I right here ?
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sure MEL

 

OK Mel, its a movable bushing--thanks for pointing that out

 

This is the great thing about this site, other have been there done that. I remember posting this very same question on the old F-list and got one reply about needing a very special wrench! Use a small scissors jack and a block of wood on the driver side trany mating flange, not the bottom of the trany. that forward corner only has to go up about 1.25 inches. There may be a post from me about using a SAE socket on the rear motor mount because it allows better access. Once you do this the first time, it only takes 30 minutes for the second and third times. Remember the motor and tray weighs 900 lbs plus so be careful. FWIW.


Jeff Pintler
89 348tb, 86tr, 99 360 3-pedal, S-160 Bobcat