Ferrari F355 M5.2 (1996+) Parts : Table 8 - AIR INJECTION DEVICE Is it safe to say that air is flowing out of part 32 (tube) and into part 13 (valve), then out through part 33 (tube) and also out through part 12 (tube). From part 12 air then flows into the right solenoid and out through a tube and also out through the next solenoid. Each tube from both solenoids is sending air to one solid pipe and the other into the vacuum canister. Do I have the air flow direction correct? Or is it reversed? Thanks.
part 12 is a vacuum line from the RH soleniod (8) .... it actuates the valve (13) which allows ambient air blower (40) to flow air into the 2ndary air manifold (36) then into tube (38) and air check valve (22, 26) ... which feeds fresh air into the exhaust during warm up. The vacuum that actuates the soleniod (8) is drawn by the engine intake below the butterflies and stored in canister (6).
Yes, except it is vacuum that is being 'pulled' in the sequence you just described, (16 to canister then pulled through 15) ...
Ok got it! Just installed a new vacuum reservoir and think I have the hoses reversed. The new reservoir has a one-way check valve on it.
Interesting the new reservoire would have a check valve .... I guess it can reduce the number of potential leak paths. If you get a chance ... post a pic of the new reservoire and check valve ....
One picture shows the state of the old crappy tank, you can see the top has rotten and there's chunks missing. The other pic is the new tank temporarily mounted while I am testing it, liberal use of wire ties helped In that pic you can see the gold colored elbow, that is a 3/8" tube converted down to the vacuum hose which runs to the solenoid. Just behind that is the black one way check valve, that is connected to the throttle body lines. Unfortunately, I still don't think the bypass valve is opening after installing this new tank. I've reversed the hoses and done test drives each time and still the valve never opens. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
New tank looks good ......... which valve is not opening? Once the vacuum has been stored in the canister, either valve can be checked with the engine off by putting 12v (or even a 9V battery) to the respective solenoid and bypass valve function can be visually verified ..... this 'engine off' condition will also allow you to listen for solenoid function .... which should help with your troubleshooting ....
So if the bypass valve doesn't open during the solenoid test then vacuum isn't being stored in the tank right? I have a feeling that's the issue is the new tank isn't receiving any vacuum for some reason. I'm gonna have to go buy a vacuum tester today and do more troubleshooting. Thanks for the tip with the batteries.
Anyone know if it's possible there's too much tension on the bypass valve? I have to squeeze it pretty hard via hand to get it to open. I'm wondering if it's too tight and the vacuum isn't strong enough to open it.
If the bypass valve is not opening by manually putting voltage to it's respective solenoid ....... it could be: the solenoid has failed or is sticking ....... the vacuum lines are not routed properly .... the vacuum system has a leak and is not able to hold vacuum ..... check valves at intake manifolds are not functioning ..... the new check valve on the canister is not oriented correctly.
You are very welcome. .. ...... you also mentioned your bypass valve was difficult to articulate. Is it a stock valve or ? It is also possible the bypass diaphragm could have failed. Check to make sure it holds vacuum.
Ok so I got the gauge hooked up to a few different spots today. If I connect it to the valve connected to the throttle body, I get 0psi pressure on throttle, and 15 hg vacuum at idle. If I get on the throttle and immediately release the vacuum spikes to about 20 hg. If I connect to the long tube that runs from both valves on the throttle, the vaccum is reduced to about 7-8 hg at idle and spikes up to 10hg. If I connect to the tube that comes out of the new vacuum tank, same numbers. At that point the engine was starting to warm up and get hot. So I had little time to test the bypass valve. I pulled up on the bypass valve and plugged the port with my finger to hold it open. Once I released the valve it *almost* stayed open, there seemed to be a lot of play even when I was plugging the port with my finger. I'd say it would maybe be 50% open at any time. I'm wondering if the diaphragm is failing or something. If everything was normal I would expect that if I fully squeezed the valve open then plugged the port with my finger, it should not move at all and just stay open. Is 15hg vacuum out of the throttle body valves normal/good? And is 7-10 hg vacuum normal/good from there on? On a cold startup the gauge was really crazy and the needle was flying all over the place during throttle inputs. Once the car warmed up the needle was more smooth and fixated. Too hot to try anything else in the car now, so next time I will plug the gauge to the bypass valve line and see if its getting vacuum.
After some searching I found out: -Stock bypass valve needs 10hg to open -Plugging the valve port on the bypass valve with your finger should barely hold the valve open, and you should feel suction, that is good. The valve won't stay open because your finger isn't providing continuous vacuum -6-8hg on idle is normal, it will spike with throttle application and instant release -Individual throttle body setups suck at providing vacuum, don't let your vacuum gauge scare you into thinking you have low vacuum -The vacuum reservoir cannot provide enough vacuum to open the bypass valve on a cold start, you need to wait a few minutes (however, you shouldn't be providing that much throttle input on a cold start anyways...) -The air pump has nothing to do with bypass valve operation, it is pushing carbons out on cold starts and eventually shuts off
Pretty sure I have the bypass valve issue solved now. Hooked up vacuum gauge to the bypass valve hose and there was zero vacuum when throttle application and gear selection should have created vacuum to open the bypass valve. Wound up being hose at part 35 in the diagram above. The metal nipple the hose is connected to had completely snapped off and the hose was hanging. I didn't realize this until today when I was doing more vacuum tests. I randomly stumbled upon the hose just sitting there, I didn't know where it went because I thought I had everything hooked up. I looked at the end of the hose and noticed a metal piece was stuck inside it. I referenced the diagram one more time and deduced that it must have been hooked up to the metal pipe (part 36). I hadn't tested the solenoid yet so it didn't concern me for the solenoid test. I hooked up the vacuum gauge to the left solenoid in the diagram and used a new hose (since the other one was old and had the metal piece stuck in it). Went for a drive when the car was warmed up and in second gear the solenoid activated and let ~15hg of vacuum through. Yay, solenoid works! Since the nipple had broken off the pipe, I couldn't hook the new hose to that anymore. I'm sure as hell not going to buy another one of those at some ridiculous price, so I ran the hose directly to the bypass valve. Another drive later, and through underpasses for good measure, and I verified that the valve is opening and the car is making more noise. Now I just need to clean up some of the hose as most of them are sitting loose in the engine bay from troubleshooting. Now that I've fixed the valve, the car still really needs a new exhaust, still just too quiet for my taste.
