308 cold start potential issue | FerrariChat

308 cold start potential issue

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by jford10014, Aug 2, 2015.

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  1. jford10014

    jford10014 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2004
    2,738
    New York, NY
    Full Name:
    Jason
    Hi

    Clutch Has started to slip in my 85 308 qv so I'm going to install a new one as well as do a major.

    Before I take it all apart had a question about cold start (or even warm start). When I start cold I have to go up and down on the throttle and turn the engine maybe 10 times before it fires into life. Warm is not as bad but still I wouldn't call it instant. I've had the car for 10+ years and it's always been like this. Are these cars supposed to fire immediately ?

    The cold start valve is working as it climbs to 2500 revs when cold. (I'm probably going to disable this when I do the work). Wondered if anyone had any thoughts on what might be wrong (assuming this isn't normal) and what I should look for ?

    Any thoughts welcome

    Jason
     
  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
    26,931
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    Yes -- you have a problem. What version 1985 308QV -- US or euro or euro converted to US importation? 2500 RPM is a very high cold idle for an '85 (and an usual problem to have).
     
  3. jford10014

    jford10014 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2004
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    New York, NY
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    Hi Steve. It's a US car as far as I am aware. I was reading on birdmans website about the cold start valve disable and he seems to suggest 2500 is normal for US cars ?
     
  4. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,931
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    Steve Magnusson
    That comment by Birdman only applies to 1980-1983 US version i/QV that have a cold start air valve -- 1984-85 US version QV do not have one.

    (If yours is a US version '85) The first thing to do is confirm/deny if the frequency valve is working/buzzing when the engine is running. Unfortunately, if the electrical side of your K-Jet with Lambda system fails, it is possible to (wrongly) tweak things up so it runs fairly well warm as a K-Jet without Lambda, but cold starting enrichment won't be working right.

    Otherwise, things to initially check include:

    1. Is the cold start injector firing during the first few seconds of cold stater motor cranking?

    2. Are the WUR cold and warm control pressures in spec?
     
  5. jford10014

    jford10014 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2004
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    Thanks for the reply Steve.

    Not sure I understood everything you've said, but this is good info to start investigation. (All the cars I've worked on in the past have been carb cars so FI is new to me)

    I have to find the frequency valve so will study the parts manual.

    Jason
     
  6. jford10014

    jford10014 F1 Rookie

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    #6 jford10014, Sep 3, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Certainly found one problem that may be the cause. Have been tearing down the engine for major and clutch change and found that the hose connecting to the air injection manifold has rusted off !
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  7. jford10014

    jford10014 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2004
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    #7 jford10014, Sep 3, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  8. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,931
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Yes, that's way, way bad for a US version '84-'85 308QV = because it would let air be drawn into the exhaust flow during warm-running and totally muck up the Lambda system. Of course, if someone tweaked it up when that fault was present, or partially present, then you may have to retweak things again after getting it sorted.
     
  9. jford10014

    jford10014 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2004
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    Gotcha. Not sure how long it's been like that. I was stripping stuff down to get everything out of the way and noticed if hanging off. Can't be good. I've been reading up on the injection systems. Seems like under normal operation not a lot can go wrong. But for cold starts you have a bunch of helpers (cold start valve, WAR, aux air) to help things along. Is there an easy way to test these things are working ?

    On a related note I want to pull out my air flow meter as its filthy and needs cleaning. The main fuel line and return look easy to remove, but how do you disassemble the small pipes going to the fuel injectors ?

    Thanks

    Jason
     

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