Saving a Scuderia

Can't tell for sure, its looking good. There was no measurable movement in the suspension castings and using non precision tools everything is measuring strait. I am lucky enough to have a perfect 430 to measure against.

HELP- if any one as 2 Scud Front wheels I am looking to buy- I've got 2 sets of "Scuderia Style" wheels but the fronts for a real scud are different to clear the giant front capers. The part numbers stamped on the flats are different, ill post pictures.

 

Rostami6- Thank you!!! That's my new car!

I was wondering how he did it. I did note that the tires were 7 years old plus some rain, can't be helpful to a civilian driver. Now the damage makes perfect sense.

I'm sending you a pm with my email. Would you kindly email me the original pictures? I searched online but didn't find any, I thought someone had to take pic, especially with his "notoriety".

 

FYI- those beautiful carbon fiber factory seats with alcanteria and "technical cloth" are actually heavy seats. They weight in at 38# each. That's a lot lighter then daytona's but double the weight of a quality race bucket. Not sure they will be allowed to stay. I love the way they look but weight reduction is one of my goals as I complete this project.

Also- every underbody panel on this car is significantly lighter then standard 430 kit.

 

With the engine starting, an oil & filter change was next. Removed the oil screen as well- it was perfectly clean. I used Redline 5w-40 and a Ferrari filter. Then started the car and ran it until the oil hit 160F and water under 205F(15-20 minutes). The engine ran perfectly.

The left front and rear right suspension looked in good condition but needed a good cleaning to remove dirt and rocks. The car had about 50# of Texas mud stuffed everywhere. Under the body panels to inside the brake rotors & calipers. Removed the calipers and CCM rotors, also cleaned and inspected the hub bearings, joints, flamblocs and silent blocks. Before and after…
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With the front left and rear right sorted, I pulled the damaged corners apart. The good news is that the hubs, rotors and suspension arms took the brunt of the impact and failed. These are the parts that are being replaced - hubs and hub bearings, left rear half shaft, lower A arms, flam blocs(parts that mount the arms to the frame castings), silent blocs(parts that mount the coil overs to the frame castings), tie rods, and all the bolts and nuts.

And now I see why the repair estimate was $144k....

These cars do not have an external bump stop to limit suspension movement. The coil over preforms that function internally. So when the wheel gets thrust upward and the coil over is fully compressed the force is transmitted into the aluminum suspension casting through 2- 10mm bolts at the top of the mount. The factory chose to use "timeserts" epoxied into the aluminum castings. This is not a bad method, but it does limit the length of thread and overall strength. In this case the wheel still had enough energy to shear the aluminum casting in the direction of the force. The estimate makes more sense now, they were planning on replacing the entire rear suspension/engine cradle casting. That's an expensive and labor intensive repair...
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I do want to be able to track the car without wasting a set of CCM rotors, all the guys I know with 430CH cars have removed them in favor of the iron rotors. If the car proves more fun on the street then CCM will go back on, if more fun on track then iron + Penske suspension + slicks. Just not sure which way I'm going to like her best.

 

Does anyone have a exact layout size & colors & placement for the factory Scud stripe?

Most likely won't happen until the car goes for full repaint (this winter)but I'd like to make it identical to the factory.

Thanks

 

Yes I agree(996cup), I am not doing this for profit. It will NOT pay for my time, but I don't really care. I'm having fun and learning a ton about every part of this car. The real payoff will be knowing I saved a special Ferrari from the smelting plant, and my satisfaction in using unique car without a thought about too many miles or I may run off track and destroy the "Value". Life is good.

I found a proper fix for the damaged suspension casting. Its a bit complicated but starts with this. The insert with the bolt in it is the stock part 19mm length, the insert under it is 44 mm. The stock one uses an M10x1.25 bolt, the replacement uses an M11x1.5. The insert itself is also slightly thicker and made from a stronger material. This will insure the OD threads are able to bite into undamaged cast aluminum. But the original bores are damaged and the remaining cast aluminum is not very strong when compared to other types like 6061 or 7075 so something more will be needed.
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Kevin - Thank you for the suggestion, I did something very similar. My initial thought was exactly what you suggested, but after over-thinking it, I was concerned that using only one additional web could still fail by pushing through the crappy opposite web, depending on the strength of the very thin stock top webbing. (about .15" in cast aluminum could yield with as little as 1875psi of force, that is an achievable amount considering the weight of the car-maybe)

First I removed all the painted surface material with an very rough surface grinder. Then I cut lines in multiple directions using a small high speed cutting wheel. Then finally added a few 1/8" holes with an end mill. The surface was rough and sharp, very easy to bond to.

Next came the CNC milling machine to fabricate 6061-T6 blocks to fit tightly into each area. The mill produced the approximate shapes then I hand fit each block again reproducing a scared surface on both blocks. After a few hours of work I had the blocks so they would lightly hammer into place. I drilled and threaded a hole in the center for test fitting and block removal. The tapped hole served another purpose, I planned to use an epoxy on the sides and behind the blocks - insert them and make sure epoxy pushed through that center hole. This should insure a complete bond on the sides and back of blocks. Then epoxy the blocks from the front to insure there is exactly zero chance of failure.

The epoxy- I have used the Devcon product but went 1 step further. (Kevin- you may want to try this stuff, I think its better but would appreciate an opinion) Very expensive but worth every $$$ - Belzona 1111. You can go broke using it about $280 per KG, but when cured properly and used at the recommended thickness (3mm)it has a cured compressive strength of over 24KSI.

The third picture of the inserted blocks shows the clearance between the stock inserts and the blocks. I used the epoxy, blocks and stock inserts first to leave a hole for the drill to follow to insure that the second larger inserts would remain true to the original C/L of the casting and make contact directly to the aluminum blocks.

Finally after drilling out the original inserts and tapping the holes to OD size of the new inserts they were threaded into place. (I used the longer and larger m11x1.5 x 44mm insert with a bit more epoxy). Now with more then 2+ times the strength of stock inserts, and being fully supported with 6061 aluminum blocks, I am satisfied with the repair. I will be inspecting it frequently but it is now significantly stronger then the original design.
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So after replacing the lower suspension arms, pressing in new flamblocs, upper arms, silent blocks, hubs, hub bearings, tie rods and cleaning everything. The car is running and driving. I took it over to my Ferrari expert for an alignment. This is the moment I've been loosing sleep over. It looked strait but is it actually?

Most of my Fcars run with more aggressive camber angles and less toe but I wanted to get it to street first, plus as its not compete setting correct ride height and corner balance is not possible. We did a 4 wheel alignment with thrust angle. After a little adjustment, we reached the stock CS alignment specs. This is only the first setup, I will very likely change both the ride height and add a more track oriented alignment after corner balancing, but can't do any of that until the body is complete. So just something to start with...

Front
Camber L -1.37 R -1.41
Caster L 5.98Deg R 5.88Deg
Toe L 1.1mm R 1.1mm

Rear
Camber L -2.04Deg R-1.98Deg
Toe L 1.6mm R 1.6mm

And.....Total Thrust Angle = 0.0 Deg
Time for a drive around the parking lot...
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I was thinking the same - must have saved at least 140#, and no worries about scratches & rock chips...