Random, stupid question regarding oil changes (355)

What is required (as in removal of parts) in order to gain access to the oil filter on a 355? Someone is trying to convince me that it is 100% necessary to remove motor mounts to change the oil, which I'm having difficulty believing.

 

IIRC, you need to remove the underbody aero that's below the drain plug. Depending on whether a gorilla put the oil filter on, the only thing you need to remove topside is the filter itself. Maybe a 355 owner can correct me?
I wouldn't ask the guy who said motor mounts for any advice again.

 

I think that is right. We did a few at my place last year on Stooge Annual Maintenance Day, IIRC. Remove the undertrays (what a pain!) to expose the drain plug. I think it's also wise to lift the car from the rear a bit. Drain the tank, naturally, before removing the oil filter or it gets especially messy.

 

So, just to verify, no bracing, mounts, cross members, or anything of that nature even need to be touched? As in, it changes just like every other car ever made pretty much?

Shocking...I'll be sure to relay this information to the idiot proclaiming himself as a mechanical genius. =)


Thanks guys.

 

Precise procedure as follows:
lift car
remove rear aero undertray (8xcross-head screws, 4x8mm nuts)
remove oil tank drain plug (22mm nut)
remove oil pan plug (12mm hex plug)

from above, unscrew oil filter (literally the first thing you see in the engine bay)

That's it.

 

Well ...

Don't forget to put all those things back...

 

This is correct...Nothing else to remove.....

 

+1, that is all.
Get your oil change kit from Ricambi, and you will have everything you need (new plugs, new copper crush washers, and filter). A strap wrench is helpful to remove the filter. If you are super anal, you can buy the superbly constructed socket tool made by Hill Engineering and sold by Ricambi to not only remove the filter, but also to properly tighten it to the correct torque. I have always done this by hand, but bought the socket tool a couple years ago....it is nice "to be sure" it is on right.

 

Affirmative. Ferrari tech data evolves. The 550 was also "hand tighten", but the 575M, which is essentialy identical in maintenance, recommends torquing the oil filters. Lessons learned incorporated into tech data.

Just like they evolved from Steiger meters for belt tension to frequency tensiometers.

Taz
Terry Phillips

 

Just to clarify, after you remove the underside panels you have 2 drain plugs to remove, one for the sump and one for the oil tank.
Be sure and torque the oil filter or you risk an oil leak at the filter O ring.
After putting in 8 quarts of oil, start the engine and let it idle until it gets to 125 degrees on the oil gauge, then add oil checking often to get the level correct. do this while the engine is running. It should take 9 qts more or less. Otherwise it is easy to over fill and this will result in a stumbling engine and check engine lights.

 

Adam, don't ever feel that a question you may have is "stupid" (in reference to the thread title). As you can see, everyone on this board is happy and willing to assist...so if you have ANY questions at all, ask away!! (Well, will the exception of the question "when should I change my timing belts" )

 

I always drain the oil while it's warm & as an added twist, for the last few years I've been undoing the lower oil cooler pipe at the radiator every-other oil change. The one that goes from the flange on the oil tank to the bottom of the oil cooler. I get at least another litre of oil out that way, sometimes more. Plus I always remove the oil filter while the drain plugs are out, that seems to help a bit more old oil come out.

All of the above are not "the procedure" but I like to try & get as much old oil out as possible.

 

Do you remember the size? Maybe 32mm? I'll have to buy another wrench for that one.

 

Anyone who said that has never been around a 355. The oil filter is one of the first things you see when you raise the engine cover. If that was your mechanic....RUN and RUN very fast!!!

 

I am bringing this thread back for a few reasons.

After searching i found all these oils in F355s...

Royal Purple 5w-40
Redline 10w40


what are you using???

 

using Mobil 1 0w40 Euro synthetic oil for the last 10 years...

 

+1 on that for 2 years

 

I've been too much of a chicken to use anything except Ultra Euro (and now Platinum Euro) in the crankcase, but the guys on this board know A LOT about oil so if they're using it, it's kosher.

For the gearbox, I tried Royal Purple and the performance of the gearbox was noticeably worse, so I went back to Rotra (and before that, Spirax) and it's been cool. Maybe I've got a quirky gearbox, but it only likes the Shell for some reason.

 

Heheheh. Well played, Sir... well played. Thanks for the laugh.

And on-topic, it's a Ferrari, but it's still just a car. Nothing exotic required to change the oil. Spaghetti_jet's steps (and YelCab's reversal) are all that's necessary.

Make sure you let the filter drain for a while (or, less-preferred but I do it, punch a hole in it) so it can fully drain. It'll hold about a half quart of oil and on my first change it was still holding it when I popped it. Oil all down both side of the block to the garage floor.

 

Royal Purple for the last 2 changes and using it again for my oil change next month at the Stoogeapalloza.

 

Mobil 1 0w40 euro blend for the last 4 years.

 

yea, I am going to use that. Just got it in mail from Ricambi. Good ppl over there.

 

I've been on Mobil 1, 0-40 this year. Runs great and maybe a little cooler even. I had to top it off some but not loosing any to leaks.