Turbocharging my F355 - Or how to remove any market value from your F355 remaining.

They seem like they wouldn't be structurally sound enough for boost? I imagine them exploding as they were designed for no pressure.

The hoses I from the crankcase I would just run to the air filters/turbo inlets. This would skew the fuel trims on a maf equipped car but wouldn't matter in speed density.

 

Yes, I have a tuner... He's used countless different programmable engine management systems (Motec, Haltech, AEM, Megasquirt, Electromotive, Link, Greddy, and even burned his own PROMs for GM's). He's worked with Methanol, E85, C16, pump gas for a variety of normally aspirated and forced induction systems for both piston and rotary applications. Best part about it is that I don't have to fly him in because it's me. I used to own a dyno testing facility and did a variety of engine and forced induction work for a variety of people. I worked on a lot of cars and the turning is not a concern, despite not really being a "car guy".

So yes, my tuner feels really comfortable with Megasquirt.

 

I have to agree, when it comes to simplicity, there is a certain beauty to the bottle. I could totally see doing a dry system with larger injectors and an aftermarket ECU programmed in such a way as to make it a freaking hoot. Not to mention completely stealthy. A dry system could be hidden inside the plenum with only a single line running to it. Very hard to spot. By the way, in the engine bay, behind the radiators you could probably stuff a 10 lb bottle. There might be enough room and it has the benefit of heating the bottle.

I have thought about going speed density, but I do like the accuracy afforded by a MAF sensor. Still if I have dual wide bands on the back end and EGT's, I can get close enough fueling without using a MAF sensor. Speed density is certainly an option.

At 10 PSI, I believe it is a non-issue, at higher boost levels, I would be more concerned. The plastic plenums are pretty tough.... I suspect that they will have no issues at 10 PSI, but yes, I wouldn't want to try to run 20 or 30 PSI to them. I have split intercooler tanks before by being somewhat foolish (unthrottled twin screw blower vs intercooler - Blower will win)

That can be solved with some one way valves... I agree that you bring up a good point. However vacuum comes from a pump right on the back of the head. So that's not really a deal breaker. You do want to avoid pressurizing the crankcase for obvious reasons, but it's not a show stopper. Good point to consider though.

 

If you don't mind me asking, who's your tuner? I probably know of him from my rotary days.

 

You own a Ferrari, and you don't know this???

I have a BS in Psych, I own two Ferrari and I know this.
Wait. There is a difference between crazy & stoopid. Nevermind

 

It's him.

 

I've had endless turbo cars and projects, don't go with a single for this car.


http://youtu.be/6KajL7klumA



If you need a suggestion on a solid place to do the custom work, let me know.

 

Ha! I missed the "it's me" part!

 

1: 9.0:1-to-9.5:1

2: yes, absolutely.

 

9.5:1 - 10:1 is what I was thinking. The more compression you can keep in the motor, the quicker the spool. I am willing to sacrifice maximum boost level for improved spool-up. Yes, you sacrifice ultimate power output because you are limited by detonation, the motor feels more responsive for lack of a better description.

There are many ways to skin the cat. I learned the hard way when I got the wrong pistons for a race motor I was building, but I built it and didn't have time to mess with it, and I was turbocharging it. It was a terror though. 1.8 liter with a T3 super 60 and a .63 A/R turbine, which everyone had told me would be a lag monster. It wasn't though, why? Because it had 11:1 pistons in it, not the 9:1 pistons I had ordered... Catch was that I could only run 10 PSI because of detonation rearing it's ugly head above that... still at 10 PSI, that little 1.8 liter motor made 295 HP at the rear wheels on my dyno.

 

That 348 is AWESOME.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJp8leFejNc <- This little miata was a product of my turbo system design and engine management. Stock 1.8 liter motor, believe it or not.

 

Well the engine management is on it's way:

1 DIY Autotune MS3-Pro
1 JIMSTIM 1.5 Stimulator
1 Innovate DLG-1 Dual Wideband Controller/Guage
1 DIY Autotune 8 Channel EGT CAN Bus interface

I already have the 8 EGT thermocouples and 2 Bar GM map sensor in the garage. The 650cc/min injectors are now on the way.

Expensive, not much worse than the cost of the factory ECU.

I guess I should start charting costs to duplicate, I am paying less for some of this (a lot less in some cases):

MS3 Pro - $1200
DLG-1 - $400
CAN-EGT - $300
GT45 Turbocharger - $190
Intercooler - $90
2 38mm Wastegates - $100
SPAL Fan $60
650cc/min Injectors - $170
Dual 2.5" to T4 transition - $120

Total to date: $2630

I know everyone is saying how expensive this project is going to be, but it's not feeling all that expensive so far.

 

Knock it out !!!

I'm in LB if you need any tools or a hand lifting something

 

The one thing I regret going F1 for is this topic, I can't think of a way to make the F1 TCU play with a stand alone ECU.

 

Didn't convince you to do twins I guess

Trusting the engine to 50 dollar wastegates, you are braver than me!

I wouldn't run less than 10-1 compression. More if e85

 

Don't know if you have seen these turbo F355 renders someone did.
The show just how nice the twin turbo orientation, packaging, and layout in the F355 can be.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Don't use a China gt45 and china gates.

Also a single gt45 is a terrible choice for the car......

 

I am not trusting it to a 50 dollar wastegate, I am trusting it to a $900 computer and a $20 sensor.

It's not that you didn't convince me to run twins, should this little experiment turn out unsatisfactory, I will be ordering a nice set of BB twin turbos. I am just having a little fun since it was low hanging fruit. Nearly everything else can be re-used, so I am not worried if a $190 turbo and some plumbing doesn't work out.

Mark

 

Yes, but that is probably the worst place in the world to place the intercoolers, period. They are just going to get heat soaked with little to no airflow there.

That is part of what I am trying to avoid... Sure, had those been liquid to air intercoolers, then perhaps that is a good location for them, but as rendered, not really getting me excited. Heat rises... If anything you would want them ducting air from the lower diffuser.

 

Do as you please of course! Just thought I would mention it as I've seen cheap wastages stick shut in which case you get a nice 30+psi spike when you thought 10 was going to happen.

Sure there may be overboost countermeasures in the ecu but doesn't mean it couldn't be damaged by the time it tries to shut it down.

 

Yeah, pretty much the same as 288/F40. Would be fine if you could lay up some nice ducting.

 

Completely agree. Air to water is probably the first thing I would look at. They would be physically, significantly smaller.
On a front engine car the FMIC placement is ideal.
On a rear engine car intercooler placement is the handicap.

 

Have you ever used a Chinese turbo before? I will agree that there can be some variance in quality, but depending on the exact factory and the exact unit, some are of reasonably good quality. Kinda like Harbor Freight Tools. The challenge is in knowing which are junk and which are not.

It's funny, because, for instance, AR-15's are often built to very tight tolerances, especially the original ones that tended to fail in the field. By contrast, the AK-47 is built to much lower tolerances and even called junk by some. One would have trouble arguing the success of the weapon. Just because something appears to be of inferior quality doesn't always tell the whole story regarding it's ability to get the job done.

Fabspeed headers appear made in China, does that mean they don't work, because a lot of fabspeed headers are out there and they seem to be reasonably durable.

 

That would suck... I have seen all manners of failure... and if I think that they are junk, they will get pitched quickly for real Tial units. This is more proof of concept without breaking the bank. I agree with you that if I were going to upgrade something first, wastegates would be higher on the list than the turbo itself.

 

I understand what you are saying and do not want to poop on your parade but please think about the risks of using unproven China brand stuff. I think everyone has your best interest at heart and does not want to see lousy parts damage your build.

Consider Turbonetics, Precision Turbo, and Garrett.
Precision has a bunch of basic, large turbos for $1000. Ones you can count on.