F355 clutch...replacement Q's

I have been doing my homework before I pull the trigger on a clutch.

I want to hear from ppl here that HAVE DONE IT THEMSELVES:

Who did you end up going with?

I know of:

A.) Ricmabi has the kit
B.) Michael Rozenstraten
Ferrari Service of Costa Mesa (reputable rebuilds at/core sw $800)
C.) superformance.co.uk/355/clutch.html
D.) MD Clutches

1.) Which one (IE Kevlar or "original")?
2.) You do anything with flywheel? ( I know that's vague, but I want a from the hip answer)
3.) Was there any other parts you swapped? I ask this to see how many of you truly had other issues.
4.) mileage.

I see a lot of ppl repack themselves (F that) and many just buy them all in one c kits

thanks to all who chime in.

 

I replaced my twin disk in my 348 this spring. I got a rebuilt from Plugzit / Bruce. It was absolutely perfect and looked like new. I'd recomend him for sure.

I had a machine shop resurface my flywheel.
I ended up swapping to hill engineering TO bearing. It's really a pretty simple job exspecially (I would imagine) on a single disk. I had some problems and confusion I brought on myself but other then that easy.

 

well I have not done a clutch job myself.
my clutch is ok for now. but it will be something I'll get done in the future anyways.

but from what I've researched myself, MD Clutches should have everything you need.
they have several clutch setup options, flywheels and regrease kits.

also Hills Engineering has very good pricing on flywheels as apposed to the 5k price range for oem.

 

1.) Which one (IE Kevlar or "original")?

Original, actually "used". It was a clutch that essentially had no wear from a low mileage wrecked manual car and was extremely inexpensive.

2.) You do anything with flywheel? ( I know that's vague, but I want a from the hip answer)

I had it surfaced.

3.) Was there any other parts you swapped? I ask this to see how many of you truly had other issues.

Triple seals and rebuilt/regreased the flywheel. I used the MD Clutches kit.

4.) mileage.

24k

It was a really easy job overall. Perhaps the easiest major item to repair on the Ferrari is the clutch.

 

You can read here and see pics of what I did, I used original not kevlar just because it is an F1, and wanted to not introduce a variable.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355-sponsored-bradan/467896-f1-overhaul-thread%3B-clutch-pump-throwout-flywheel-360-pump-etc.html

Short answers:

1. Original material, sent clutch to Friction Materials in Longbeach CA, they overhauled it under $100 shipped back to me.
2. Yes, had flywheel ground to remove a very shallow groove.
3. Read the above thread

 

I did my own 355 clutch replacement 2 or 3 years ago.

1) Valeo original/new clutch disc & pressure plate set.
2) My flywheel friction surface looked pretty good, so I cleaned it up with a scotchbrite pad in 1 hand while running a vacuum hose with the other to capture the loose fibers from the pad.
3) Bought new triple seals from Ricambi
4) The clutch and pressure plate that I took out had around 20k miles on it.

 

I finally got my car back today and am pleased to say that after six months of frustration it is now changing gear perfectly, so many thanks to the people who pointed me in the right direction with that.

However, the dealer noted the clutch is quite worn and will need to be replaced sooner rather than later.

Having a look on Superformance, they list two clutch kits. One "original" and one "Italian aftermarket". The aftermarket one is cheaper (of course).
My question is not about saving a few bucks, but is one better than the other?
I just want to get the best possible result.

Thanks.

 

That has to be a relief! Good to hear.

What did it end up needing to be repaired?

 

In my limited experience, I had a rebuilt clutch disc and pressure plate put in once and it broke within 100 miles. I ended up with a brand new Ferrari clutch and PP from Ricambi and all was well. Go stock, don't do after market.

 

It sure is! Thanks.
They replaced the failed clutch release bearing with a Hill Engineering one (and seal kit), and also put in a new clutch position sensor.

Good advice, thanks.

 

I prefer a "stiffer" clutch pedal. is there a heavy duty pressure plate available that would give a heavier pedal feel?

 

While you are changing a clutch on a F355, you may also want to consider replacing the 3 plastic rings on the input shaft. They are a pain to install.

You'll also want new hydraulic seals on the Throw-Out bearing. Be careful not the nick the seals.

Any heat spots on flywheel should indicate a resurface job. A wavy surface on a flywheel will cause premature wear on clutch. Be sure to mark the flywheel to crank to help install flywheel after a resurface. There is an orientation to the bolt pattern.

Be sure to clean the housings to help spot any future leaks or problems.

 

^^^^great advice! thanks for the tips.

 

I’ve done the clutch myself. Symptom was that it slipped at full torque so I thought I would just replace the friction plate. Since the clutch is very easy to access and I was doing the work myself I wasn’t bothered if it turned out to be more and I would need to do it again
Replaced the friction plate with a Valeo OEM sourced from Ferr Parts. Measure the old disc and sure enough it was 0.1 to 0.2 mm under the min thickness.
The flywheel / pressure plate did not have significant hot spots high wear areas, so I just used scotchbrite and cleaned. Was an easy job and actually did it after work and drove my car home the same night. No problems since either (that was 8k miles ago).
As mentioned above I’d probably replace the triple seals while you are in there. I am in the middle of a major right now, and I just replaced them, with the Viton ones from Superperformance - WAY EASIER to install, but can’t attest to how they seal as I haven’t put any miles on the yet

 

Way easier and they do fine.

 

If there are hot spots, I'd replace, not resurface. Hot spots mean differences in hardness. Resurfacing won't remove that. The resurfaced flywheel will wear unevenly from the get go.

 

Valid point about hot spots and resurfacing. The hardness is not consistent with major hot spots.

As with any piece of advise, the correct answer lies within the OP components and their current condition.

 

Old but good...

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/355-clutch-change-procedure.51678/

 

Check the ring nut through the access panel when in there. Gearboxes have been lost due to the insufficient peening of the ring nut.

 

Should these splines be dry, or lightly dressed with moly/graphite or any lube?

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I can't remember whether I put anything on those splines, probably brushed a tiny bit of oil just to keep them "oily". I also brushed on a very thin coat of anti-seize on the clutch disc splines to prevent hem from sizing a bit over time which may cause some clutch shudder.

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It is important to watch that o-ring in front of the clutch disc splines. The splines of the clutch disc go a bit tight over it and there is a danger of cutting the o-ring. The "leading edges" of the new clutch discs I was installing were very sharp so I rounded them slightly with a small flat diamond file and cleaned-up all the burr:

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Before rounding (razor-sharp, a lot of burr):
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After rounding:
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An example of the o-ring damaged by the clutch disc splines during installation (posted by another member):
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Still digesting many threads about clutch/flywheel maintenance; Clutch seems straightforward, but not certain about flywheel greasing?

Are there shops to send my flywheel to for servicing, or is this something I can do myself. Thinking by the time I buy special tools, I can send
out and have it done by a pro?

 

You mean the damper bolted to the flywheel? Nah all you need is kluber grease and an 8mm ribe bit. I did mine few weeks back, it's the most fun of the jobs I've done so far. There is an MD clutch video on you tube shows you step by step.

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Yes, the damper. I watched that video and it does not look like that big a deal. My larger concern is the balancing which is not mentioned in the video. I won't know until I get in there, but assuming the flywheel will need resurfacing. Flywheel shop should balance the flywheel, but should I be concerned about the unit in total?

What about the socket to remove the assembly from the pumpkin?

Would like to hear more about your idea of fun???

 

The socket to remove it is a ring nut socket, 26 mm is think, ricambi has ii in stock. As long as you mark the case halves you'll be fine putting it back the same way.

Removing / reinstalling rear shocks, control arm bushings packing cv joints all miserable. Pulling heads is no fun. The voith was quite enjoyable, put some tunes on and it's nice and smooth to do. No grinding, cutting, tapping, stripped nuts, seized bolts, broken bolts, hogged out hex heads etc. Almost relaxing... try it and you'll see.

I'd you were local I'd do it for you. I would not do your control arm bushings...

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