Different locations for each car, my 456M is passenger side rear side panel. Also 550, 355, 456 use bosch 5.2 ecus, I'm not sure whats in the 360 although that being said I talked with Jorge from ECU doctors last week (I was the ginnie pig) and he said they are going to do a 360 soon. So far just a 355 and my 456 have been done and I must say its nice not having to press the fob to start the car. I can't post pictures till I send money to Ferrari chat for an upgraded membership to allow me to a higher level of site memory, at the time I'm not interested.
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If some of you guys are stuck without a PIN why not pay the guy in Australia to extract it for you and get back to a normal working system? Doesn't that beat spending a lot of money to kind of hack up your car and in the end not having a functioning system? I believe you have to drill out something like 10 rivets to remove the immobilizer.
It was 355k shrunk it to 95k, Its says I've exceeded my limit. If I could find a way to delete old photos I'd do it.
You evidently have a motive in remaining stock, that's your choice but I'm not going to have a pissing contest who is right, each to his own, I have offered my experience to others LIKE me who are sick of the immobilizer and an interesting read for those who don't. If you read the last part of this thread all that needs be done is switch the immobilizer interface with the bypass, nothing is hacked up, you can plug your old immobilizer interface back in and be back stock. By the way why would you drill out the torque tip screws when they make the correct tool to remove them?
I don't. I can't pull a PIN from the immobilizer. Only the guy in Australia has figured it out. If someone's in a situation where they lost all their fobs and PIN and deciding whether to spend the money and do it right vs. bypass the stock electronics only he can help them, not me. Personally I'd be nervous about buying a car though where someone messed with this. I just helped a guy in Chicago that had sold his 355 to a "collector", someone who I know has two Enzos, and the guy wouldn't take delivery of the car until it had 3 working fobs. I made 2 special trips to LFSC to help this guy out.
The one on the left is the stock interface the one on the right plugs directly into the harness and replaces the immobilizer. Thank you very much for posting this picture!
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Yesterday, I spoke with Jorge. This replacement interface is about 4 weeks away from being ready for sale. He is having a proper case built. Jack, thanks for this thread. Great news. Now I need to remove the rear seat. Keith
Keith look under the front part of the seat bottom where the carpet has been cut you will see to 10 mm bolts, take them out removing the seat bottom, then you will have to remove the seat back, there is one 10 mm nut hidden at the bottom of the seat back, remove this and slide the back down and out. Look at the nuts and bolts that hold the side panel on, this will be on your left, remove them, they are all 10 mm and I think there is 4 of them, pull the rubber door seal out enough to expose the panel, now slide the panel toward the front of the car. Do not pull it out it has 3 clips that slide into slots. Bingo there is your panel that has all the goodies behind it.
This guy told me that he have this bypass for USD850 . He said me that I don't need to send any thin to him, just pay and received a product to connect to immobilizer. Did any one try it?
Yes that is correct, I was the first person to have the immobilizer bypassed, it took them several months to crack the code and now they send you a new immobilizer interface which you simple unplug the old and plug in the new and jumper to wires. If you want to go back just plug in your old unit and undo the two wires and your back to stock.
Jack- Nice things are: 1) Alarm still works but you do not have to arm it if you do not want to (lock with key) 2) She will start even with the alarm blaring 3) You do not need to a fob to open her and start if you do not arm the alarm, but the fob will still work to open the door.
Yes Taz, this is not everyone's cup of tea, many might like to have the immobilzer but it offers a alternative for those of us who only have one fob or get anxiety crossing the country with one fob.
While I like that they figured out how to bypass the immobilizer function in a non-invasive way, they did not exactly "crack the code" The Aussie guys did that. Wish someone in the US would do the same. I am one of those poor saps that have all three working FOBs, but no PIN card. BTW - i specifically asked to have this item checked on my PPI, which they did not do. I got a full refund, but that does not cover the cost of missing something like this...
What I meant by crack the code is more like they figured out the output needed to turn on ignition and fuel circuits in the Bosch engine ECUs. I sent them both engine ECUs and the immobilizer for them to experiment with and they did find a way to bypass it.
last week I received my bypass unit from ECU doctors. Should get installed next week and will post a report. If all goes well this will eliminate a major irritation. Keith
Jack, I didn't realize what a brave guy you are. You trusted them, and Fed Ex(?) or some such service with a ton. We all owe you thanks. Keith, I'm happy to hear that Jorge is actually shipping. It has been a month since he contacted me to say that he is "building" a unit for my 355. Since my clone died, I'm truly down to one fob, and we all know how that feels. Richard
The bypass is installed. The fob is gone. My car, 1999 456MGT, starts with a simple turn of the key. Removing the rear seat is the most difficult part of the installation. The nuts and bolts are hidden and there is no room to work but it came out—3 separate pieces. The panel covering the immobilizer is held in place with torx security screws. I had to go to 3 auto parts stores to find the proper bit tip. Replacing the immobilizer interface is quite simple, one connector and 2 nuts. Remove the interface, install the bypass. The last step, cutting the wires from the immobilizer to the starter, is an act of faith and was a bit intimidating to me. Take a breath, snip, done. So far, so good. I will drive for a while and post any developments. Thanks to Jack for starting this thread and the instructions on removing the rear seat. Keith
Your right Keith, all those seat panels are a pain in the butt, I had mine off for almost 6 months so when it was time to put them back I forgot the sequence. I replaced all the immobilizer panel screws with hex head screws just because I had a box of them already.
