Hi everyone, Looking ahead to when I need to replace the clutch and hope I can get some input from you guys. 1) I'm considering a Kevlar clutch from Gte Engineering and wondered what your thoughts are compared with a stock Ferrari clutch? 2) Also an alloy flywheel from Clutch Masters or the Aasco one from Ultrarev. Anyone tried either? Is alloy better than the stock Ferrari one? I put an alloy flywheel in my Carrera and noticed the difference immediately. I'm interested in your experiences. I know it is safe to install OEM but there are other options out there. Welcome your views. Thanks
I just had the entire clutch job done on my F1 360. Clutch, sensor, throwout bearing, etc, etc, etc. $5150 out the door with tax, all factory parts. Its one of the more $$$ routine maintenance jobs but if you know how to drive the car right the interval should be a good 20k miles even on on F1. I would just stick with factory parts in this case. Its too much of a PITA job to bother experimenting for minimal if any benefit
I track my 360 CS quite a bit and also I wanted better hold and lightened flywheel for quicker revs. If you have an F1 transmission, the lightened flywheel is a no no (per one of the major advertiser on this site who sells them). Regarding the Kevlar, despite ample warnings not to do it and stories of people pulling the clutch out after a few miles, I opted for ClutchMaster stage 2 kevlar. Well I ended up doing the clutch twice and now have an almost new Kevlar clutch and pressure plate (probably has less than 50 miles on it) on the shelf in my garage. If you have 3 pedal car, Kevlar and lightened flywheel will work on the 360 b/c your TCU (ie your brain) can adjust for the different take up and slippage...compare the stock clutch disk vs kevlar you will note the stock will compress a certain amount while the kevlar doesn't. TCU is designed to expect a certain amount of friction on take up vs distance of throw out bearing. Also the rate of the pressure plate springs release is different from stock on upgraded pressure plates. This causes erratic engagement or in my case the TCU refusing to engage properly. Now some 360 F1 owners have been successful in putting kevlar though there is a 300-500 miles of tense break in praying that it eventually bites.. and several that switched back to OE. Maybe the CS TCU is more finicky, however; why risk it if the OEM works just fine and is about the same price.... Again if you are willing to roll the dice, I'll sell you my spare very lightly uses Kevlar clutch for a nice discount
Yes , that is where i got it done and have all of the service on my 360 done. Work is done, well, in a timely manner and while not the cheapest in the area seems to be the best overall value proposition as no corner is cut (I.E. - he replaces the F1 sensor and TO bearing automatically when a clutch job is done. My the sensor and bearing were likely fine in my car (i got the spare parts back - but why take the chance when a lot of the cost is getting all the way in there in the first place)
Robert- Yup, false economy not to change the T/O bearing and clutch position sensor on a clutch change, even though the sensor can be changed without removing the clutch.
Jagbuff thanks. Yours was the most helpful advice by far IMHO. Not sure what the rest of you guys were saying apart from telling me how much your clutch cost to replace. Cost is not the issue, facts is!! I'll post an update when I get to that stage.
