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348 front suspension job

Discussion in '348/355' started by blue90, Dec 23, 2015.

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  1. blue90

    blue90 Formula Junior

    Dec 15, 2013
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    Dave
    #1 blue90, Dec 23, 2015
    Today I started to replace front bushings, brakes/pads. It seems simple enough but a few really weird parts opened up a can of worms. Getting the calipers off rotor you can either pull a brake line, remove the six 13mm bolts holding the hub/bearing from the back, or modify the two 10mm bolts on the hard line bracket by welding the inside nut which likes to spin.

    This was irritating until trying to remove the first rotor which took an hour to soak and sledge hammer off. At one point I had one rotor pounded out with the hub and bearing because I removed the rear 13mm bolts. This is sort of bizarre but is it best to remove the hub nut and replace the bearing or can it be repacked with new grease and reused? Did not expect that.

    The brakes are off to the shop to be cut. Next step is removing upper A arm. Sort of stuck on how to get the one bolt out with the upper metal brake line in the way. It looks like if it bends it will just break and is probably would need to be made.

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  2. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Aug 10, 2002
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    socal
    #2 fatbillybob, Dec 23, 2015
    You are making the job too hard.
     
  3. ///Mike

    ///Mike F1 Veteran

    Dec 11, 2003
    6,097
    Bugtussle
    #3 ///Mike, Dec 24, 2015
    *Exactly* what I was thinking.

    One quick answer to the OP's questions-- if that metal brake pipe breaks instead of flexing enough to provide the small amount of room needed to remove the pivot bolt then it needs to be replaced immediately.

    Frankly, this sounds like something you should farm out to an experienced tech. If you're making it this difficult you're in over your head, which will likely cost you more in the long run than just paying someone who knows what they're doing.

    Good luck either way.
     
  4. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    Dec 22, 2011
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    Miroljub Stojanovic
    #4 m.stojanovic, Dec 24, 2015
    Dave, judging from your picture, it seems that you are thinking of bending the metal brake pipe still attached to the brake hose. You will have to disconnect the rubber hose from the pipe which you should then be able to easily move aside.
     
  5. blue90

    blue90 Formula Junior

    Dec 15, 2013
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    #5 blue90, Dec 24, 2015
    Thanks for the replies. Have not got to the wishbones yet but disconnecting the brake line is the only way for upper A arm removal. Right now I have the rotors back from the shop which look great. Painted the hats so as they are drying I inspected the bearing assemblies. Of course there is dry grease so they need to be repacked but they are newer from 08 or so.

    Since both hubs are off the car with that 30mm nut still on I am going to find a shop to zip those nuts off. No discoloration and they rotate nicely. I could not get them off on the vehicle and of course I made sure the dimples were banged straight on the edge so hopefully this can be done locally.[​IMG]

    Adding the bearing back plate. Was going to weld the 10mm bracket bolts on it so you can get off the caliper/rotor without messing with brake lines or bearing assembly. For next time!:cool:
    [​IMG]

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  6. carlo348

    carlo348 Rookie

    Jan 20, 2014
    33
    #6 carlo348, Dec 24, 2015
    Good luck...just had mine done. Had to replace 1 arm as droplink bolt siezed within it. Also a lot of the bushes had to be cut/burned out.. Its a pig if a job.
     
  7. 97 Spider

    97 Spider Formula 3

    Dec 15, 2012
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    Brian
    #7 97 Spider, Dec 24, 2015
    I'm Having a similar problem with the axle nuts on a 360. The stakes have been pushed out and they've been heated up a number of times. I have a couple young guys going after them and they won't budge. I don't know what to do, the amount of force that has been applied to them is mind boggling but they just will not break free. I hope yours work out for you. Good luck.
    Keep up with the pictures. My brain follows along a lot better when I can see what you are talking about. :)
     
  8. blue90

    blue90 Formula Junior

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    #8 blue90, Dec 24, 2015
    The torch method is in the plan for bushings but where were you able to cut without damaging the arm?

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  9. blue90

    blue90 Formula Junior

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    #9 blue90, Dec 24, 2015
    Wow, thats really on there. On my porsche turbo you simply remove the wheel center cap with vehicle on the ground and use a 7' breaker bar to get the 32mm hub nut loose through the wheel as it sits. All leverage if its on the ground. Ferrari's will not allow that.. or will they? Did not check if the socket fits through the wheel and who really wants to crack the plastic center cap?

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  10. carlo348

    carlo348 Rookie

    Jan 20, 2014
    33
    #10 carlo348, Dec 24, 2015
    We were able to cut the bolt to free the arm and droplink. Although the arm still had the seized bolt within. Tried everything. Heat.,press. Drilling was not an option either. It was stuck fast. We were able to source a used arm from eurospares for $250us. All the arms were shotblasted and powdercoated.[​IMG]
     

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