Turbocharging my F355 - Or how to remove any market value from your F355 remaining.

To summarize what everyone is asking, yes, it is entirely possible to continue both the water circulation and fan cooling after shut down of the motor based on coolant temperature based on the actual temperature. My implementation is really simple.

It will be accomplished by a temperature activated relay. When the ignition is off the master fan and cooling relays in the "unpowered" position will route through the fans to a relay connected to a temperature activated switch. So basically, the coolant fan and pump motor have the ability to run independent of the ignition system if the temperature exceeds a given threshold. This should prevent unnecessary hot spots after shutting down the motor. I sort of wish I could do that with the oil too, but that is overkill.

I could accomplish this using a "turbo timer" function, but I am my own turbo timer. I will know the turbine inlet temps at shutdown so no big deal there. What is most frustrating is waiting for the heads to get back, I need them to really mock everything up and get rolling.


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Nice.... Yes, I could use something like that as well, that's a great idea.

 

I paid less, but yes, that is the retail price and includes the programming software.



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Yes, the interior is dirty and I will clean it up in a bit. However, this gives a good idea where I am going with the dash.

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I am pretty pleased with it actually. I was really hesitant to get rid of the factory gauges, but seeing it now, I feel like I made the right decision. I have placement just right, although, I might angle the IQ3s back a little bit more.

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Finally got the heads back! Now I can finally get stuff done.

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So it's been a few weeks without updates... I know, lame. Unfortunately health issues are continuing to plague me and have prevented me from spending time in the garage.

I finally got out there again today and started to mock up the assembly of parts that I have for the project. I made some bonehead mistakes along the way which naturally took a little time to figure out. Like which head goes on which bank... that's always a fun game to play but I got that figured out in short order.

I also made room for the remote power steering pump today. I located it under the driver's side wheel well just forward of the tire. It's not the optimal location (as I would prefer the mass to remain within the wheels and low to the ground, but at the same time don't want to give up boot space and the pump isn't that heavy. It will be occupying the space previously used by the wipe fluid reservoir and I will likely fit a smaller reservoir in the same general area with slightly less fluid capacity (it was not working properly, so it needed repair anyway).

I am really debating the main ECU location. I could, naturally, place it behind the seats but that seems to just not sit with me aesthetically due to how the connectors interface with the ECU. It's just not "right" for lack of a better way of describing it. I want the installation to be elegant (much like the general nature of the car itself). Unfortunately, the ECU does not lend itself to an elegant solution in an obvious way. The same holds true for the 8 channel EGT interface (If it were as easy as the water and power steering pumps).

I have basically sorted out the electric water pump installation and it appears to have become a fairly elegant solution despite initial attempts to over complicate it. The pump is removed and replaced by a flat plate to seal the front of the water distribution assembly. Water is pumped in from the radiators and routed through the engine as before with one notable change. There is no longer a thermostat as the electric motor is not the thermostat with the water circulating faster as temperatures increase. The alternator is now the only pulley powered accessory on the engine, which greatly simplifies things with regard accessories.

 

I have been considering that, as it would simplify all but the WBO2 installation (which was not elegant in general), since the Innovate WBO wiring needs to go all the way to the damn dash. The EGT install was reasonably elegant until you realize that the 8 channel unit isn't weatherproof, if it had been built with the intention of being weather proof, it would not have been a big deal. I'm a little annoyed about that with regard to a few components... but you are right that it lacks elegance at the moment. At least the MS-Pro is weather proof! Utilizing the CAN Bus does mean that I can leave the ECU attached to the engine cradle, but I am concerned regarding the actual heat in the engine bay vs the ECU. I am probably being overly conservative in that regard. In thinking about this, I think you bring up much worth considering, I think that I might just build an enclosure that allows proper cooling and protection of the electronic components as opposed to locating them within the cabin. As long as I can avoid excessive temps and water related damage to the components, I should be fine with keeping the electronics closer to the motor.

Thanks for the thoughts.

-M

 

So today's work was pretty light and limited to some simple cooling modifications.

See attached picture for details.

So as discussed before, I am moving to an electric water pump setup and really didn't want to reinvent the wheel. I am even being a little lazy at the moment with the front of the original water pump until I make an appropriate flat plate to replace the front part of the housing.

So upon looking at the flow through the water pump, it's clear that two conditions exist. One where the water flows through the housing once the engine is up to temperature and the alternate flow in which the engine manages coolant flow when not up to temperature. As noted before, there is no longer a need for a thermostat with an electric coolant motor. So the thermostat is removed completely and the bypass passage is blocked with a 25mm freeze plug, essentially making the electric water pump function as the thermostat. Since the motor speed can easily be regulated (and even shut off completely), this should allow for quicker warm-up and fairly precise temperature regulation.

See attached picture for the modifications. The electric water pump will be feeding into flow point C on the diagram.
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Today's little project was pretty easy... Explosives removal. I have been going back and forth about where to mount some of the electronics. So, out with the air bags! Yes, both passenger and drivers side air bags. No, I am not mounting the ECU in the steering wheel. LOL. I plan on changing to a more elegant wheel, preferably without an airbag (plus per the manual they are "expired" being more than 10 years old, although I didn't check the dates, so probably "expired".) I think that I will go with the ecu in the passenger compartment, as tempting as it is to put the ecu in the engine bay, it's easy enough to just get a second harness made to run the engine on a test stand should I desire to do so and just move the ECU. I am still thinking ease of maintenance and long term reliability, so my work today I think ensures that both are completely achievable.

 

I used to have my own dyno, so yes, lol. I had a cart just for that very purpose.

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LMAO, but some days that feels sooooo true.

I need to get cranking on this beast.... I don't think that I will make my end of March deadline unless I get really moving on this project. Thankfully, my Naval War College class will be done soon and one less thing to interfere with my progress.

Fun stuff is finding the parts to make it feel more sports car like, for example, I have to decide on a new steering wheel. I don't know why, but the interior of the F355 just never felt bespoke to me, despite the fact that it was all leather and really rather nice... It kept reminding me of a GM for some reason (and not in a good way), maybe it was just the 90's plastic and sticky interior that was annoying me.

 

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So this is how simple the modification of the water pump was, it's also easily reversible.

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I was thinking about that same set up.

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