Ok lets look back at the fuse box when I look at the schematic figure 7 (that you found) the 21 fuse feeds into the "87" leg of the "G" relay 1) can you change "G" relay with a known good one? after changing check if fuse still burns ( relays go bad and can cause shorts especially after 30 yrs) 2) the circuitry goes through a few white connectors "J" "K" "V" can you remove inspect for any "heating/burning" (J22, K5 and V look at the schematic and trace the line for exact areas to look at) 3) check the fog light harness in the front the same as you checked the license , find where it connects to the front main harness and inspect for damage and continuity report back
1) Have changed the relay last week for a new one. it still burns de fuse 2) all removed and in perfect condition 3) Checked and perfect
1)Are you sure that it is the exact relay? On the side it should show the same schematic as fig 7 2)Have you checked the side marker harness? 3) Fig 7 shows ECU 109 I believe that it is in the rear trunk bottom left side, check connections there 5) Where there any issues going on before/when this started? ie was there any work performed , accident, burn bulbs ?
So the issue recently has started and before you didn't had issues? The wiring harnass is pretty well protected of a Mondial I need to say. If none has fiddled around with it or any Non F accessories added and like Ron mentioned no accident or other repairs... it is quite impossible that this would be the root cause. I would say the issue is either your steering column switch or your fuseboard that has an issue. These are both not uncommon.
So evaluating the circuit, relay "G" also control Front and rear lights via fuse 19 and 20 1) you have front and rear lights, yes? (this narrows your issue only to the fuse 21 circuitry) 2) even though you replaced the relay remove it and jumper a wire from where pin 33 to pin 87 would go , does the fuse still blow? 3) the circuit does go back to the indicator switch and it should be the wire on the bottom, please push on the solder connection to make sure it is soldered, please inspect all wires in this tiny area and make sure none are touching or can touch report back
It seems to me that so much grief is caused by the fuse box I'm wondering if there is an upgrade out there? One that perhaps uses blade fuses to instead of the ceramic ones. Is there an upgrade out there? Jeff
we're talking about a 30 year old car. weather its a blade fuse or other does not really have a bearing here. fact is, something broke. and something shorted. now then, all things considered... i think these cars do pretty damn good! compared to modern vehicles, they're EXCEPTIONAL for how long they last, without an expected failure like this.
Have any bulbs been changed prior to this problem? A car came into our shop with the most bizarre lighting problem and they swore nothing had been touched. Turned out that a single filament bulb was installed in a dual filament socket feeding current to all kinds other systems through the grounding. Good luck to you with it. I would also find, clean, & lube with dielectric grease all ground connections.
I produce them with 2.5mm2 copper wires instead of the layers. And bigger connectors to reduce heat production. Due to the problem...started after you changed the relays or before...? Look if the pins of your relays dont touch one to an other inside the fusebox...seems to me you shorted there. Guido
Started before changing the relays .i just changed the relays to test if there were working well or not
what you can do is removing all bulbs from that circuit. And put them back one by one to see what bulb line (or bulb itself) is your problem. Guido
this is why previously I mentioned checking the circuit for continuity at each step of the circuit from ground. it narrows all of what this does, but does not risk the circuit.
aint that the truth. i've got one car (non-mondy) that fried out the wires on back of the cluster. weekend, it eventually gets done on!
A simple but valuable check is to measure the resistance between ground and the "87" terminals of relais f, g, q and r. You can use the perfect fusebox drawing of dfranzen to locate the relais and terminal "87". You only need a multimeter (lowest range ohm setting, calibrate for 0 ohm). Before you start you have to: 1. Remove the + connection of the accu. 2. Remove relais f, g, q and r. 3. Be sure all fuses are ok, including fuse 17 Now: 1. Measure the resistance between terminal 87 of relais f (fusebox) and ground (find a good ground). Do this for all light switch combinations. 2. Repeat this for relais g, q and r. If you find a resistance lower than 1 ohm then record/report this (relais number and switch position) because this can give more information about the location of the problem.
1) Yes I do 2) there is no pin 33, i did it from pom 33 to 87 and it blows 3) inside indicator is perfect
just take out the bulbs on the rear ones. You can take away the covers one each side in the trunk and the rest speaks for itself and try again. The lights in the console are still burning. I still say it is your fuse board that is the issue. It is so unlikely with the Mondial that wires (harness) would be the issue since everything was working fine before.
. Watch this video Fixing Strange Auto Electrical Problems - Scotty Kilmer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BcGT1bNrsAM .
