456 window problem update

I chenged my discs to 575 steel ones. FAR better braking....

 

Terry, Process started, Plugs, 5w-50 oil, Auto transmission service. Had it back for one day
runs good no smoke, But Que sera sera.
Here are a pic of the old plugs.
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Just a thought Can this be continued in a new thread, it makes it easier to search and follow.

 

Hope this work's better.
D.

 

An update to the window problem and something that I have never seen mentioned before. While struggling with mine, I found out that the B Pillar has a movable mounting point for the window seal. The screw holes are slotted and the mount is adjustable. That will help to take care of any gaps that are left after working on the regulator. Part #25 on the TAV. Note that a good portion of the interior has to come out to do it.
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Chris, do you have a picture of the adjustable part of the seal?

 

Mine's re-installed so it doesn't look like much in pictures. You access it by removing the B pillar trim revealing 5 screws.

 

How does one get those spark plug boots off? Mine are very difficult and I am afraid of ripping the rubber.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Dennis

 

1997 456 with 2004 regulators. Sent my driver's side regulator to F1 Imports. Good news: They turned it around same day. Bad news: It performs the same.

At the very top of travel the glass shifts 1/4 toward the front of the car, otherwise it goes perfectly straight in the up and down travel. When I say "forward shift", what's really happening is the glass is rotating slightly. ie. the front drops 1/4" which moves the top rear corner forward 1/4".

After most of a day adjusting it, I'm down to a gap similar to a business card, but if the window would go up straight at the last 1" of travel there would be no gap. I had to really tighten up the glass guide tracks(items 6 and 7 on page 1 of this tread). This included drilling a new hole for the top adjustment of the rear slide. I feel that if the regulator assembly were more rigid I wouldn't have to rely on the guide tracks to keep the glass travel straight.

Question 1: Can the front slide(item 7) be adjusted at the top? I took apart a lot, but didn't see a way to adjust that location.

Question 2: Is there something in the regulator that shifts the glass forward at the last 1" of travel going up? Driver's side and passenger side both do it. I thought F1 Imports fix removed this issue? BTW, I can see they definitely changed the scissor pin.

Question 3: Is a business card gap good?

Passenger side is pretty good(business card gap). I'm thinking about looking at that next, but don't want to send F1 that regulator based on the lack of change to the driver's side. If the forward shift at top of travel can not be solved by them, the passenger side is not likely to improve. I'm not complaining about F1, just wondering if others have similar experience.

 

Chris...did you ever get an answer? Mine is doing the exact same thing... "rotating about 1/4 inch creating a gap in the upper rear window opening".....

 

Nope That post from 2017 is as good as I got it.

 

Was able to.make solid progress on window operation.....installed Daniel's steel spline pivot....easy..replaced all aliders... easy.....then spent 1.5 days adjusting mechanism.....could be a little better but night/day difference with rotation and rear gap....primary adjustments in window mount front/rear movement....and the two adjusters of window "rotation"up/down front and rear..... achieved this gap......also important to properly adjust the lower rear slider block to get proper in/out at the top rear.....
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Has anyone tried gluing an additional strip of auto marine weather seal from Home Depot and essentially make the b pillar seal thicker and seal?

 

Yes, I've seen that done. But, you know how picky ferrari buyers can be when you go to sell. They'd rather see original than a fixed problem. I didn't do it.

 

You can adjust the rubber inboard/outboard slightly and also the window can be moved that way a bit. By your pics, it looks like your window is too far forward.
You may try to slide the whole window assembly, or just the window on the frame, a few mm aft.
You are not the first one to struggle with this, and surely also not the last! It took me weeks, and a redesign of the mechanism, to get them right.

 

My drivers door window has developed its own personality lately, drooping and going back up while on the road. The switch unit on the car functions when i push it with my finger. And the latch on the door is tight. It seems like there is a fine adjustment needed to make sure that switch stays engaged when the door is closed. I can pull on the door panel and the window will usually go back up, but any bump in the road is causing it to start again. The door is closed solid when its doing this, and didnt start until the weather got colder.

Any suggestions?

 

You mean the motor is actively moving it up and down? Or is there some kind of play in the mechanism?

 

Actively moving, like it thinks the door is being opened and closed. I feel like the latch is just barely engaging the microswitch, and on and off. When the car is sitting and door is closed, it stays up.

Is there a known place to start or quick trick technique? Seems like all pieces are secure. Its intermittent, but happening more often

 

The microswitches can be adjusted easily, especially the one on the inside. The system is designed to engage the window switch first before opening the door lock.
Try to pull the latches real slow to see if your problem is on the inside switch or the outside one.

 

Nick, It's been a while since I had my 456 but I remember that once this started happening (the window moving up and down on its own once driving) I eventually had to spring for a new window ECU. I know they are difficult to find and hopefully this isn't your case to begin with. And if it is then the window ECU can generally be repaired by the likes of ECU Doctors, etc. They fixed mine and it ended up working perfectly ever since.

Also trying resetting the window operation using the key-in-the-lock procedure. Again. sorry I can't remember the exact steps but it is well documented on this forum.

 

On the V12's, there is usually a number of different switches on the door which activates the window drop. I don't think there is any easy way to identify which one is faulty or if it is, as asgor says, an ECU problem.

e.g. There is a microswitch on the door pillar which affects the windows

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I'm not sure if this switch affects both the window down and up movement. Anyway, clean and lubricate and then compare it with the passenger door switch to see if feels the same. Check the tightness of the screws on that assembly. I'm not sure if the switch is electrically active with the door fully open: With the door open, try mechanically triggering the latch on the door (into the closed position), then play with that switch on the door pillar.

 

I'm having that same problem - with the window dropping slightly while driving, like a few mm. then to reset it I just open and close the door and the window goes all the way up. Can anyone give further insight into where all the microswitches are to control window-down-when-door-opening? So I can check them all out?
And can someone give me a link to resetting the window with key in door procedure?
thanks in advance, and of course I will continue to do my research...
jay

 

If it’s an electrical drop and not simply a droop… the microswitch switch is on the door frame aft. It’s a small movable switch/button on the inside of the receiving mechanism. Mine was acting up last winter, driving in the cold weather and sensitive to road bumps. I could duplicate it in by pulling on the door panel too. I cycled the switch with my little finger. Since the weather has warmed up, it has gone away. I could not reasonably unscrew the attachment points, so I gave up trying to remove it and instead got some contact cleaner on it in place.

 

great info thanks. Yeah I saw some pics that showed the mircroswitch; I'll have to take a look next time I'm near the car.
I also saw at least one blog that explained the ECU reset, but it wasn't very detailed, and as you suggested it does not feel like an ECU problem...
ty