I appreciate that very much John. I really am sorry-- you were certainly not the intended target of that rant.
I saw a couple posts about them to but thought some folks weren't happy with them. I found some where you could make your own with (i think) 8mm non resistor silicone wire and the connectors and reuse the Ferrari ends but a quick look at stealbay and didn't see the wire. Didn't do a general Internet search yet. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
You can make your own on a 348. Buy a spool of 25 ft wire from Kingsborne, some bullet connectors, re-use the spark plug ends from Ferrari (they just pull apart). You can buy the coil ends from Kingsborne, standard stuff. All of $75.
A buddy put a set on his Daytona and is very pleased with them, for whatever that's worth. I plan on trying them when I need wires.
Just contributing a data point. I'd be happy to build my own but if the wires need replacement I want new connectors as well, since those can go bad too.. BTW, I think JohnK is really on to something with his conjecture about the dead cylinder not getting fuel. Definitely worth investigating. It obviously wouldn't explain the rich condition that was apparently occurring, but all along I've thought that you are dealing with more than one problem. Also, in further praise of D100, I recently lowered my passenger window for the first time in ages, only to find that it would not go back up. Fiddled around some with the door jamb connector and got it to raise again after a couple of tries. So I started treating the pins in both door jamb connectors with D100 about a week ago. Tried the windows again earlier and they worked fine over several attempts. They're still slow, but that's another problem-- at least they work again. I wasn't sure it was the source of all of your problems, but from the symptoms you described a resistive connection to a CTS has seemed likely to me, based on my experience. So I'm keeping my fingers crossed that your D100 treatments in the engine bay will help, even if they don't fix every problem right away. In fact, if an injector isn't actuating there's a chance that it's just a bad connection. Was your car used regularly before you bought it?
Yep used regularly including the 17k miles ive put on her in the 4 years ive owned her. Driven every week and not in rain. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Yessir. Whole time. Until recently the car ran perfect. She is due for major next year. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
For what it is worth, I put the Kingsborne wires in last April. 2500 miles and everything seems fine in that regard.
Yes, the ignition coil is the large black thing to which 4 HT leads of one bank are connected, one coil per bank. It has a 3-pin Bosch connector. Next to the coil is the Ignition Module (a small black rectangular thing) with a 7-pin connector. Clean all of these (20 pins in total).
Sometimes its just easier to ask than look it up on a small phone or drag out the laptop. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Interesting. Unless the data on the chip got corrupted I'm not sure why it would suddenly start causing probleems.
Yip...that's my wonder too. Tonight i installed the new CTS's. Note here when doing it... get your kids involved to give you the new one while you plug the hole with with your finger to minimize loss of coolant. Worked great on a bunch of levels. Started hooking things back up in that section while hitting it all with D100 again. Since i have the airbox off and need to get under the car to check the RPM sensors figured I'd change the oil - so in went a new filter. Will jack the car up tomorrow after a car show and i get to check out my buddy's new Murci and finish things up and light her up and see what happens. Holdin' out hope! Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Getting close. No spark on #1. Wires are good. Confirmed swapping wires. I tried wriggling the wire in the coil.. no difference. So im going to swap side to side. Was curious how to hook up the wiring but took off working 5-8 and voila! Turn it upside down and it tells you for the other side. Humour me! Its been rough going...lol Also today changed oil, set both MAFs to .383 ohm, put a shim in the 5-8 RPM sensor so they are both now .35, D100 the connectors again. So close... lets hope its a cool and not the wire to the ECU.... Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
And... drumroll........ Ignition coil on the 1-4 bank won't fire position 1. Before i swapped coils side to side i found a post where someone suggested unplugging 1 side and seeing if car would start. With 1-4 coil unplugged car started and ran on 5-8. Tried same with 1-4 plugged in and nope nada. Swapped coils with known good coil from 5-8. Plugged her all up... fingers crossed hoping not in wiring and she fired up! So need a coil pack at a minimum to continue troubleshooting. Do i replace in pairs? Any suggestions? Thanks to all on this journey with me even if just following along. Time for an adult beverage! Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
If you are confident that the coil is bad, the coil pack is a Bosch 00136. About $50 at RockAuto and other online stores, $60 at NAPA, $240 at Ricambi. I'm a cheap SOB so I would just replace the bad one with the $50-$60 variety.
Oh yah. Its toast... won't fire on the other side. Thanks.. wonder what chance of someone local having it in stock .... Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
You're making progress! As John said, I wouldn't necessarily replace both coils just because one failed. That said, if they're that cheap it wouldn't hurt to replace both and keep the old good one as a spare. But it's not one of those things like dampers (shocks), which should always be replaced in sets. Here again, I would suggest sticking with Bosch.
I would buy two new and keep the good old for spare/testing. Should be easy to find; cross references for the Coil and the Ignition Module: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Replaced the bad ignition coil and we have success! At least in the garage. It's raining today so I won't take her out for a test drive but she sounds back to her normal self. Will test for spark on all cylinders to confirm. I think I'm going to go ahead and replace the other ignition coil and keep the original as a spare. I also need to swap out the Champion plugs for the Iridium ones. Then tighten up the ECUs. Chatted with 3forty8 about looking at the super chips but he decided against messing with them because of how they're built. Will report back tomorrow on test drive if weather clears. Again thanks to everyone who helped me out here. I'm going to summarize what to test in one post. The 348 brotherhood is amazing and I hope i can repay the favor. I learned so much through this process. Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Yep... she's always been a bit rich (no cats, test pipes).. but not like before the coil went south. It's back to normal smells and normal sound. Though it does seem to be running smoother.. but it's probably because I haven't heard her running normally for weeks. Still want to source new FPR's and replace them as well.
