I had her out one day and she overheated no fans. I changed the thermostat no change bled it a 100 times Same thing. Changed the 2 sensors under the plenum and the radiator fan sensor bled and bled same thing Jumped the fans they both work changed the coolant cap and switched around or changed all relays. Checked all fuses. And no change. Thermostat opens at around 195 degrees going by guage on the dash I think that's to hot ?? fans still don't go on. The passenger side radiator is alot hotter on the bottom half than on top near the fan switch. Could it be the radiator ?? Or dammed air?? I was told the drivers side fan should go on when the ac is on cold and high it don't Water pump seems working as water comes out of bleeders at a good stream and no squeel ing I hear a loud click when I hit the ac but can't tell from where. Near the back of engine as best I can guess but not the fans they spin fine and do go on but only when temp Guage shows like 250 deg if I run it with the coolant tank cap off as soon as the thermostat opens it gushes out. I had the radiators flushed and was told they flowed fine. I don't just wanna rig a toggle swith to the fan sensor obviously there is an issue and would rather fix it. Jumped the oil fan swith and the fans fine. Omg I wanna jump off a bridge. I would love to be able to just drop it off and get it back all done but like every other working stiff big repair bills hurt. Big time please help me my fellow fcar junkies tommy gun 203 488 8550 if it's easier to tell me if you have a couple pearls of wisdom
Is your coolant level at the right amount. What seems unusual to me is that the bottom and top are not close to the same temp. Maybe you have an airbubble keeping the fluid high in the overflow even though its low on coolant. If you can when cold squeeze all hoses and check if coolant goes up in overflow this should kinda confirm no air bubbles. You can also take out one sensor and put it in boiling water and see if the resistance changes. This should tell you if the sensor is working. I have a 355 so not as familiar with the 348. I would also check the coolant temp with a temp gun as the engine warms up with cap off it should read about same as gauge. You only need to confirm at like 130 or 140 degrees. If its the same then you know the gauge is acccurate.
Does anyone have a decoder ring? Almost sounds like a broken water pump impeller *if* I'm reading the post correctly.
I'm gonna try the squeeze the hoses thing and see but I think I did it's been a blur after the last 2 weeks. I tried high level in tank. And lower to see if it was that. Left bleeders opened all night and bled them with heat on car not running. And with motor running. With the ac on Warm. Hot. And cold. Put air pressure pump on cap. No leak down. No leaks. And no smoke or steam from exhaust or milky oil in the oil tank. How in the hell ban I test the water pump.
Your sure your temp gauge is working right? Try a temp gun. I do know one thing ..keep letting her get up to 250 deg and your going to have more problems than your fans coming on late.
The "click" you hear when you push the A/C button is normal. That's the sound of the magnetic clutch at the front of the A/C compressor (lower right front of engine) engaging like it's supposed to. Would disconnecting a coolant hose after starting the car maybe give an indication of coolant flow rate? Of course you won't have a normal Ferrari to determine what it should be, but I would think it should show a pretty heafty stream gushing out. Do it with the thermostat removed so you can do it on a cold car. Much safer for you.
Another thing you could try doing it you got a temp gun, is to get the engine up to running temp, get a baseline reading for one of the hoses, then bypass the fan switches so that you manually get them to run, and watch the temp gun and see if the temp falls. If your water pump is iffy, there probably won't be much change.
First thing to verify is that temperature guage, second is the resistance of the sensor at 100C (or there about). If the guage is wrong, you may be chasing ghosts. Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
This is good advise and where I would start. Given that you say the fan doesn't come on when the AC is started I would think it electrical in nature because you are correct that fan should start. Heck, it could be something as simple as a bad ground and you are not actually overheating. It's a pain to track these type of gremlins, keep us posted. Hang in there.
Yes bled them 10000 times. It's gotta an electric proble . I had enuf. I gotta admit defeat I gotta bring it to someone. Im done.
Look I'm so disgusted I can't even put a coherent sentence together. I'm starting to get chest pains I should have bought a god dammed tesla for Christ sake
On my '91 348, the AC condenser is at the front (in front of the right wheel) with its own fan so the engine cooling fans operation is not linked to the AC in any way. As you have a big temperature difference between the radiator bottom and top (cooler top), it looks very much like no-flow, i.e. bad water pump. The coolant flow is from the radiator bottom to top and, if there is no flow, the temp-switch does not get hot enough coolant to trigger it. The fact that you can bleed the system does not mean that the pump must be good; the coolant will flowing out of the bleed nipples even if the pump is bad as it will be pushed by the cooling system pressure created when the coolant heats up.
According to what I have read (and seen pictures of cracked/loose impellers), the 348 pumps did have plastic impellers as factory installed. Perhaps up to a certain year or maybe all (can't remember finding anything about this). Some rebuilders offer the pump with a steel impeller. I do have a new pump at home (from Eurospares, aftermarket I think) and I will check what impeller it has and inform.
Thought I remembered seeing something about plastic impellers on those pumps. it was tough for me to get a handle on everything the OP was saying but it sure sounded like the pump wasn't circulating water, which is a more reasonable assumption where there is a possibility that a plastic impeller was used. Thanks for the info. Hope things are going well for you.
Well it's the water pump for sure. Took out the therm. And started the eng. no water at all out of the pump. Ughhhhhhhhhh. Now I'm trying to fig. On an elect. Water pump to get me thru the summer. Prob. A billet alum. Race pump. 50gph should be ok. I think???? Any thoughts guys.
What alternatives do you have other than buying a new pump, pulling the engine, and replacing the pump again?
If the fans aren't kicking on the first thing I would check would be the temp sender (aka: temperature switch, part number 158655) on the half radiator, on the right hand side of the engine bay, just above the oil cooler. The sender will be on the top left corner of the half radiator.