F355 Spider Power Window Question

The power window on my 97 F355 Spider will not move unless the top is locked in the closed (up) position, or I push the sensor up by the drivers sun visor with my finger. Is this normal? Today, I compared it with a 98 F355 Spider on which the windows worked normally with the top down. Also, on my car, the windows automatically roll down about an inch when I release the sensor. On the other car, the windows stayed up all the way.
I am guessing that my car has an issue. Maybe the sensor that detects that the top has completed its down cycle is bad. Thoughts?

 

I think so. The seats move automatically for after the down cycle completes.

 

Sorry, I was trying to respond via my cell in my previous post.

When I open and close the top, everything seems normal except the window operation.

When closing, the seats move forward, then the top moves up. I have to pull the top up as it is rising and then latch it in place. Once it is latched, the windows work.

When opening, I unlatch the top, the windows go down an inch or so, then I push the top back until it beeps. Then I use the switch to lower the top completely. After the top is down, the seats move back to complete the cycle.

Once the top is unlatched from the windshield, the power windows will no longer operate unless I push on the sensor in the latch receiver while I am operating the windows. Then, if I am rolling up the windows, they will automatically roll down about an inch after I release the sensor.

 

I found the problem. Microswitch Sx (Soft top movement microswitch, pg H-60 in the manuals) was worn. It is located behind the driver's seat (US) in the track for the soft top frame. I bent it slightly to get it to work for now. I will order a new one and replace it. The top and windows work perfectly now. Yay!

 

16 64416800 1 SENSOR $ 195.47

Wow! $195 for a switch. I guess I'll wait until it wears out completely.

 

I am adding the drawing that shows the location of switch Sx for reference.

- Tom
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Well, it has now worn out completely. It is time to try to find it for less than $200, or rebuild it.

 

Here's the culprit. In typical Ferrari style, it appears the only way to remove the switch bracket assembly is by removing the entire lower ram bracket to get to the screw underneath it.
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The numbers appear to be BUP65SS and 27795 (or maybe BUP655S)

 

Maybe something like this would work:

Subminiature DC - Snap Action Microswitch - CHERRY
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They are $7.75 each. Unfortunately, the minimum order is 1000 at Digikey. I'll have to try to contact the company to get samples on Monday.
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Nice find. That may be the exact part. The roller is actually a separate part that attaches via a bracket to the two mounting screws on the switch.

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The three wires are so it can sense both states, open and closed, via a voltage level. The lack of voltage would be a fault. I will need to look at the connector again tomorrow to see if all three wires are actually used. I seem to remember that only two wires were used, but I need to confirm.

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The switch on the car only has two wires. It is a normally open switch. So when the top is down, the switch is closed.

A three wire switch could be used as well though by just not connecting the wire for the open position.

 

It appears that they don't ship to US, so I ordered the same ones from here:

V4NCS - SAIA-BURGESS - SWITCH | Newark element14

 

Even though the photo shows that the switch has two wires, it in fact has three wires. This shouldn't be a problem though. I just need to determine which wire is not used. I'll post more information once I determine it the switch will fit.

 

I have installed the new switch and it works perfectly. The original switch was a normally closed switch, so I used the grey and black wires on the new switch. The blue wire was the normally open wire, so I just cut it short and put some shrink tubing on it.