stupid F1 is stuck in nutrual and pump isnt coming on

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Don't PM answers, put them here , we want to see!

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Shut off the battery switch for a few minutes and turn it back on and try, Johnny

 

@ greg, I just PM'd my phone number....

Johnny, here is that self learn sequence, when Tom's F1 was in a similar state it cleared it for him, stuck in your shoes I would give it a go.


1. Turn key on wait for dash light sequence
2. Press and hold (for duration, until success beep after calibration) AUTO button
3. Press and hold (again, for complete duration) accelerator down to floor
4. Press brake twice then hold on 3rd time, release when done

Link to owners manual PDF for you: http://aussieexotics.com/forum/dlattach/attach,1998/ferrari/ferrari-f355-owners-manual-313.0.html

 

3 brake pumps, hold on #3.

Did you get that pump fuse connection working?

 

Is the gas flap closed properly?

 

Do you mean the engine bonnet? That switch is tied to the F1 system.

 

Does the gas station or any place nearby sell multimeters? You could grab one and check the power out of the 40amp fuse, relay, and at the pump's connector. Calibration routine won't work if the pump isn't working.

 

If your getting 12v at the pump, then that is a pretty solid assumption, baring some current supply issue from a connection that appears under load. You could try the old starter trick and tap on the pump motor right after you get the key turned when it should be priming, might get it off the bad spot on the comm which could get you home. Time for a 360 upgrade then.

 

Theres a connector at the back drivers side for the pumo get someone to hit the key to on and wiggle that connector.

 

Its likely the fuse under pass footwell check both or the connector at back by pump. Hope this helps.

Then check amps from pump when running usually between 10 and 20 while shifting.

 

Probably bad connection at that plug at the back. I replaced the contacts on mine and its good now. Like i said have someone turn the key on and wiggle that back plug.

 

Original pump..or does it have the 360 swap out?

 

Can someone please explain the actual technical reasons to upgrade to the 360 pump? I hear it mentioned here all the time but I don't seem to recall reading the technical benefits aside from it primes quicker. Looking to understand if this is really required or not as my OEM pumps is not having any issues.

 

Primes quicker and holds pressure better during spirited driving. Apparently handles heat much better as well (we all know the 355 produces plenty of that).

I personally feel like my shift times improved slightly after the upgrade...more crisp if you will. That may have something to do with the old pump just being worn out though. Priming time was definitely obvious however.

 

What he said, and it allows for the easy addition of a heat sink for a longer life. The conversion also adds a filter to the system. And of course you can find one allot easier next time replacement comes due.