FERRARI 360 ALARM SIREN REPLACEMENT

Preface:
Yes, there are many threads regarding replacement of the 360 alarm siren.

Hopefully this thread may help another FChatter confidently replace their siren on the cheap.

Cause:
As 360s are getting on in age, standard replacement parts are needed.

My first thought was to add an external battery; and keep the original siren.

However, after cutting open my original, the board was aged; and with cheap new replacement sirens available, I opted for new.

We know Ferrari doesn't manufacture alarm sirens; and OEM's 360 sirens from Bosch.

GM sells the identical Bosch alarm siren via their part number 15213135

As such, I purchased a new Bosch alarm siren from a Texas based GM distributor for $49 delivered.

Job Time & Difficulty Rating:
Removal of original and installation of new siren took less than an hour, with my newbie "first alarm siren install" status.

On a difficulty level of 1 (easiest) - 5 (difficult), this job is a "1" (very easy).

Conclusion:
If your 360 needs a new siren, don't be intimidated, this is an easy cheap job.

Steps:
1. Rotate battery kill knob clockwise (I hooked up temporary power via a cigarette lighter battery charger to retain codes)
2. Remove left trunk liner
3. Remove rear trunk liner
4. Unclip wiring harness connector from siren
5. Remove original siren
a. Using 10mm socket - loosen front nut
b. Using 10mm socket - remove rear nut and washer (rear bolt is captive)
6. Install new siren
7. Clip wiring harness to new siren
8. Install rear trunk liner
9. Install left trunk liner
10. Rotate battery kill switch counter clockwise

Conclusion:
$49 and less than an hour of your time, is the simple fix to remedy a red dash light and achieve "first attempt" key fob one-push lock and unlock.
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Attached is a pic of original siren.

Note the aged board.

Also attached, pics top and bottom of new and original.
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Small suggestion: I installed the module in a 45 degrees angle, facing down to eliminate the possibility of moisture build-up or water collection. If yours still uses the NiCad batteries, consider mounting the battery externally because the NiCads will leak within a few years and you're back to square one. Just for thoughts.

 

Great thread. How did you know it was going bad?

 

Thanks, but from the many threads on this, I seem to recall that the GM parts are not completely functional in at they don't actually sound any alarm. On some, I read they don't even chirp. Does your work exactly like the OEM piece?

 

+1 recently did the GM install and alarm siren does not go off when triggered. Oh well :/

 

Is the GM siren exactly the same than the Ferrari?

BR

Gerhard

 

To try and summarize the threads, its a different (much cheaper) part but functions nearly the same. Results vary tho. Only difference I see is the car alarm will not go off if u try to enter the car when locked. Instead, u hear/see flickering headlights/side lights. Also if u turn off the car's master switch, the alarm will set off!! everything else works perfect. Part can be found on eBay.

 

Can anyone confirm this? That alone would make the GM unit unusable.

 

I didn't bother with the GM replacement when mine went south. I called Exotic Auto Recycling here in CA and spoke to Ryan about the module. He understood what I want and he cut open a few modules before finding one that is not damaged. I paid $100.00 over two years ago. When I received it, I removed the NiCad batteries and clean the circuit board of any nasty residues and mount a new set of batteries to an external container. The siren works as expected.

Save yourself the hassle and get an OEM module from a recycle yard. It is just not worth saving $50+ dollars. When it comes to selling the car, you will have one less story to tell to the new owner.

 

After 16 years I had to replace the siren on my 360. I noticed the "chirp" was no longer present. I purchased a NEW one from the dealer, $342.

I can't believe how CHEAP some of you guys are. Willing to substitute the GM siren when it only chirps & stops the led from flashing. The whole purpose of the siren is lost if it doesn't sound when the car is broken into.

Regardless of how cheap a similar looking part is if it doesn't function 100% like the OE what's the point?

Mine lasted 16 years, it not you have to replace them every other year.

 

In that picture you are missing the vapor barrier ... Thats what takes the most time to remove.

 

1) That alarm that you paid "big bucks" for has the same failure rate of the part it replaces. BTW did you check the date of manufacture? If a few years prior.. it might ALREADY be on the way out. Ergo, wasted money.

2) And exactly what is the benefit of having a "fully functioning" alarm besides appeasing the anal retentive "it's ALL ORIGINAL"? How often will it go off "as its supposed to"? You don't REALLY think that some guy is going to walk over to the car with metal rod in his hand, jimmy the window and "hotwire it" do you? New flash! They're going to load it up on a flatbed and take it away OR they're going to tow it. And if they're THAT good.. they've cloned your alarm when you press it as you walk away from the car. No beep, just an empty parking space. The reason its a waste to pay full price for the "Real part" is it won't stop someone from stealing your car.

It's not being Cheap.. it's being realistic and pragmatic. If you're really worried about it being broken into and stolen.. buy a GPS tracker with an ignition cutoff.

 

If true, this last part would be a royal pain! For what? saving A few hundred $ every 10 years? Why not save the last $45 and just leave the original malfunctioning siren in place? Doesn't prevent you from driving the car.

 

Eventually found driving quite annoying with the red light on all the time. Now with the GM part, all the functions that I use daily work as if nothing is wrong. Trickle charge the battery and there's no need to really turn off the master switch unless working on car. Odds favor I will not need the siren, never did with all my cars throughout my life. Old tech anyways and won't really prevent a car from being stolen. On top, I got a sweet deal on the part new. But I understand those purist out there want to keep everything original. Totally understandable.

 

I haven't had to turn off the switch in 3 years. What are you guys doing to your cars that require the switch to be turned off so frequently? (besides "we don't drive it enough that the battery dies")

IF I need mine turned off for something It'll be a big enough repair that I can unplug and muffle the siren if needed.

 

Not exactly convenient: Each time, having to peel back the moisture barrier and reattach it without breaking/compromising it, or maybe you removed that permanently for easy access

Having to turn off the master switch with the siren sounding just one time is probably enough for it to become a royal pain. I am sure someone having to work on the car will love them for it Each to his own, but another reason why people may stay away from car's worked on by owners themselves. I do stuff at times, but will retain functionality as designed, unless of cause, it is a flaw.

Out of curiosity, does the GM siren go off if you disconnect the battery in the foot well, or only if you turn off the master switch?

 

In 2 years of ownership I haven't had to turn off the masterswitch either.
As a matter of fact I don't believe it is best to keep turning off this switch for everything.

When you turn off that switch then you have to reset the emission cycle.
Not a good thing.

My $0.02

 

I doubt anyone turns off the master switch frequently. Though, I imagine people in colder climates putting up cars for the winter months may turn it off instead of leaving it on a tender.

 

Yes been thru this too many times recently! Do not want to reset those systems for emissions testing. Annoying as hell!!

 

When you're good... you can remove it easily without compromising its function.

Again, to each his own. There are many different types of buyers out there. And anyone who gets spooked by a GM siren installed isn't going to be a buyer that even considers the car in the first place. We read about them all the time here. Someone who wants every part as original is also going to want "documentation" of a Ferrari dealership repair and will lament if there is an oil change that wasn't documented perfectly by a dealership. But here's the key.. if you ever sell your car, the buyer won't CARE that you did everything perfectly if the price is beyond what they want to pay. And there is another that has the same PPI but sells for $5k less. They're not going to care about the siren unless its a museum example. The only thing they're going to ask about is " is the red light out when I drive?"

Didn't in mine interestingly.

 

It is not so much from a purist, re-sale, or museum example perspective, but more from the general observation that it is unfortunate that somewhere down the line it may be difficult for someone to figure out why it is behaving "oddly", and potentially leading to costly/tedious diagnostic work. Of course, any owner is free to do to their car as they like...

 

You don't have to touch the vapor barrier when replacing the siren. I replaced the siren by accessing it though the brake fluid cover.

Do not remove the vapor barrier permanently. If you drive in rain, moister will find its way to the bottom carpet liner of the front compartment. I found out the hard way, because the owner before me breached the vapor barrier (to work on the siren, AC lines, power steering, who knows) and left it with a tear which was taped but that did not seal against water intrusion.

 

It has been 5-6 years since I did mine, and although I don't recall the details I did not see it practical without peeling the vapor barrier. Not sure if it is a F1 vs. 3-pedal difference due to the clutch master on the 3-pedal...? Mine is a 3-pedal, is yours an F1? Anyway, good to know.

That was a joke - see the "wink" in the post you quoted?

 

Mine has three pedals.

I missed the wink in your post ... my bad.