Installing HE spacers - what do these pins do?

After purchasing some 550 wheels about 18 months ago, I have finally got around to installing them onto my 456.

I have bought a set of Hill Engineering type 2 spacers, but on going to install them, I find there is a pin and a bolt obstructing the spacer (at 10 and 3 o'clock in the attached photo, sorry don't know how to annotate on my iPad).

What do these actually do, and how do I get around the obstruction? Can I just remove them? I'm wary that there must be something on the other side of the disc that they're securing?

Thanks for any help and apologies for apologies for my lack of technical knowledge!
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The pin is a standard fitting on a Ferrari, it is a location pin that sits in a hole in the wheel casting between 2 bolt holes. No idea what the bolt is for unless it has been fitted in place of a 2nd location pin.
Your standard 456 must have had these location pins as a standard fitting ?.

 

You beat me to it. Deleted as it was redundant.

 

I assume you spacer is going to bolt onto the original fitting in the picture, if that is the case just remove the bolt and location pin and fit your spacer. Then refit the location pin and buy a 2nd one to replace the bolt. Does your spacer come with a set of extra long wheel bolts or does the spacer have counterbored holes and a set of bolts to fit it ?
A pic of the spacer kit would help to advise you

 

Type 2 spacers bolt to the hub and the wheel bolts thread into hardened inserts in the spacer. Ricambi and HE have images on their sites.

 

I had a look on hills web site- your location pins are not used on the spacer due to lack of room- you have 10 holes , 5 to fit it to original hub with countersunk bolts and 5 to take the original wheel bolts.
You can remove the pin and bolt and they will not be used, they were usefull in helping to get the wheel on, as it is heavy it can be a problem getting it in place and getting the bolt started, these pins make it a bit easier. Look an e bay for ferrari wheel guide pins, very cheap and you screw them into 2 bolt holes and slide the wheels on, then remove them when you get a pair of bolts in.
Before you fit the spacers clean out the threads with some degreaser, put some loctite nutlock on the bolts holding the spacer so u know its not going to come loose, also check that the wheel will mount on the spacer before you fit it- i see it has a shoulder machined on it and if your wheels are old the recess may be damaged over the years- easier to sort out before you fit the spacers .

 

No Loctite.

 

Loctite nutlock comes out easy, why no loctite as once it is in you can forget about loose bolts, now studlock or bearing fit is a different story as a pig to get stuff apart

 

because of the caliper you can't get to the back side of the hub rotor interface to make sure it is clean when tires go on and off. A small spec of debris like milimeter road rock getting pinched between the wheel and rotor or rotor and hub can prevent proper torque on the bolts. That can give rise to lug loosening and shearing off of the wheel from the car. So those little 13mm bolts hold the rotor to the hub when first put on when hub and inside rotor face are clean. That ensures both surfaces contact flat. Your tech should have made sure those were clean before assembly. The 13mm bolt with stand off ensures that the wheel mating surface indexes with the rotor face properly. You can see cutouts in the wheel for that standoff. The type 2 spacer bolts to the hub sandwiching the rotor. It takes the place of those 13mm bolts by keeping the spacer/rotor/hub interface clean because it is assembled once and never comes off unless you change rotors or service the hub. Then you would clean those surfaces anyway to ensure proper mating. Then as a consumer you only see the spacer face and wheel inner face. Those need to be clean every time you remove your wheel to get new tires or swap tires when going to the race track. Use the hub bolts that retain your wheel with clean dry threads. Do not use oil or any anti-seize compounds. Made sure the bolts to spacer have enough threads engaged (bolts too short) and do not bottom out in the spacer (bolts too long). The lugs bolts are 14x1.5. A rule of thumb is to have the threads go into the spacer as deeply as the bolt diameter. So that is about 8 to 9 complete revolutions and that can safely hold your wheel. I'm no pro but that's my story and I am sticking to it.

 

The small 8mm bolts hold the brake rotors in place (and lug bolt holes lined up) while the car is being assembled at the factory. I've never seen a purpose for the tapered pin. It doesn't locate to anything on any car I've ever worked on. It occasionally interferes with wheel mounting as not all wheels have a recess on the back side between every two bolt holes.

 

True, Tim. Except more than just at the factory. If the rotors moved about the hubs, it would be a constant pain to align the lug bolts. The 355 has a bolt and then another with a rubber alignment bumper. I recently just used both with the bumper.
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Thank you all for the help and advice. I shall remove the orientation pin and bolt and make up the spacer to the rotor.