330 GTC impressions and a couple questions | FerrariChat

330 GTC impressions and a couple questions

Discussion in 'Vintage (thru 365 GTC4)' started by jcavalie, Jun 27, 2016.

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  1. jcavalie

    jcavalie Formula Junior
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Jun 4, 2005
    660
    Oakland, CA
    Full Name:
    Jim
    Hello! Over the last 18 months I've been updating my GTC and returning various systems to original spec. I've also been getting more confidence in the reliability of my car, and I have to say I'm very pleased. It still has some non original bits and it still has some gremlins, but the car is running well and I'm really enjoying driving her.

    Two weeks ago I did two shake-down drives while we were sorting a mechanic fuel pump issue. Each drive was about 90 miles through Sonoma and Napa in warm weather (issue only manifested itself when engine was fully warm). We seem to have resolved that issue with a second rebuilt mechanical fuel pump, and the 2nd test drive went smoothly. This is not the vapor lock issue I'll be addressing below.

    So - yesterday, I decided to drive her up to Tahoe for the rest of the summer. I seemed to pick a bad time of day (fairly heavy traffic including some stop-n-go from Bay Area to Sacramento) and 100+ degrees for 1/3rd of the ride. Yikes! However, the car did almost great! I'll get to the "almost" part in a sec. The car basically handled the heat and traffic fine and once I was past all that it was a joy to drive up through the mountains. It easily handled the grades, climbing to 8000 feet, and had no problem hanging with traffic, accelerating past tractor trailers, etc. I just couldn't get over how well it handled that sort of cruising given it'll be 50 years old next month! Fun!

    Now for the "almost" part of great... I had two issues. Both of which I was aware might happen and both of which I could use some advice on:
    1). In the 100 degree heat and stop and go traffic, the coolant temp showed about 90-92C. Normally the car runs at about 75-80C. While that didn't alarm me, it did seem to kick off the vapor lock issue these cars have a reputation for, whereby the engine would start stuttering and I'd have to flip on the autoflux for things to return to normal. Once I got past the traffic and into the cooler mountain air, temps dropped to 80C and I could turn it off and the car kept running fine. Here's the conundrum - someone replaced my Fispa electric fuel pump with a Bendix one, some years ago. The Bendix is quite reliable. I recently found and had rebuilt an original Fispa, but if I'm going to experience needing to rely on the electric pump as a supplement in California heat, I'm not so sure I should install the Fispa one. What do folks think? Is the Fispa reliable enough to use it as a real backup to defeat vapor lock? Or - is there a way to eliminate the vapor lock? Also - my car has 308 fan motors which seemed to handle the heat and driving conditions ok. I have rebuilt Lucas box motors ready to install, but they are less efficient, so not sure whether installing them will cause new issues.
    2). I had my a/c rebuilt a year ago, and it works pretty well - that is - when the a/c belts stay put. For some reason I seem to lose them. Literally. I need to have this looked at again, but I lost one belt of the first set and the other belt stayed with the car but came off the pulley. I had another matched set installed and in less than 5min one of the belts flipped over in the pulley. When I left for Tahoe, the belts were in that state - 1 fine, 1 in place but flipped. They drove the a/c just fine for 2 hours. Then, they were gone. I think I heard them leave while sitting at a traffic light after stopping for dinner. Heard a fwap-fwap, then no a/c. When I stopped for gas I opened the hood and there was no sign of any a/c belts. With all the glass, no u/v treatment, and 100 degree heat, it was a bit of a toasty drive from that point on! My question to you is - any ideas what might cause me to have these issues with the belts? We've checked the pulley alignment, bought the belts as matched sets, etc etc. One thought is the pulley clutch, but I'm open to other ideas from the community. She won't be back in the Bay Area till September, so this will be looked at hopefully this Fall. In the meantime, windows will be down! Oh - and the obvious time to install the box fans would be when having the a/c belt issue addressed, assuming some front end disassembly will be needed. So - any advice on that is also appreciated!

    Thanks!
     
  2. PFSEX

    PFSEX Formula Junior

    Jun 30, 2006
    843
    Las Vegas
    Full Name:
    John Ratto
    The mechanical pumps on 330s are old and tired. They often seem to be unable to supply sufficient fuel. When I got my 330 - a LONG TIME AGO (so things may be different now) - the car would not run on the mechanical pump - I had to use the electric pump all the time. At some point, I rebuilt the mechanical pump but it didn't help much. The car would now idle and run at low speeds on the MP, but it would not accelerate normally on maintain cruising speeds.

    In the end, I always ran my car on the mechanical pump.
     
  3. srslusso

    srslusso Formula Junior

    Mar 17, 2005
    875
    Encino,Ca.
    Full Name:
    Steve S.
    Run both pumps all the time. No harm is done . Are you pulleys perfectly aligned they should be.
     
  4. cheesey

    cheesey Formula 3

    Jun 23, 2011
    1,921
    your hot weather operation is consistent with my experience, need to keep fuel pressure up to keep from stalling, don't recall if the 330 had return lines to the fuel tank from the electric pump...which would aid in keeping the fuel cooler... the car needs air flow from movement... it is not a car that wants to be driven in traffic on hot summer days... check both of the electric fans turn on at proper temp, the thermostat can go out of spec delaying switching on and fan motors fail too often

    re throwing belts... could be in the a/c clutch not having a smooth transition causing the belts to go slack or creating too great a load as the a/c transitions on/off too abruptly...
     
  5. donv

    donv Two Time F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Jan 5, 2002
    26,105
    Portland, Oregon
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    Don
    My 365GT is actually wired to run the electric pump all the time, and has been since I got it-- 23 years and at least 20,000 miles ago.

    The autoflux switch just turns the little blue light on...
     
  6. jcavalie

    jcavalie Formula Junior
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    Jun 4, 2005
    660
    Oakland, CA
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    Jim
    Thanks, everyone. All very helpful. For the a/c, we will check the clutch. The pulleys are definitely aligned. We've checked that a few times.

    For the electric pump - looks like I'll continue to use it when car is heat soaked. My rebuilt mechanical pump works totally fine when car is at normal operating temps - in city and highway driving. My GTC also does have a return line to the gas filler opening. You can see gas stream out of it back down into the tank.

    I also got a helpful PM explaining why I ,ought want to stick with my Bendix electric pump if I'm going to drive in extreme heat. Apparently the points on the Fispa can get really hot and freeze, rendering that useless as a backup. They also pointed me to Tom Yang's site, where I found an article sharing how Tom has managed to fit an always on facet pump inline with the Fispa pump. Kind of a cool solution, imho, since you get the tapping sound on startup and the extra reliability of the modern electric fuel pump.
     
  7. Jumprun

    Jumprun Karting

    Feb 7, 2012
    227
    Southern California
    Full Name:
    T. Martinez
    Just to make sure, I run two electric pumps in tandem, the original Fispa (click click) and a modern unit (bzzzzz) , I have them plumbed in line. I also replaced the original one-position paddle switch with a two position switch that activates the original pump when flipped down, or the modern pump when flipped up. Of course I needed to run another wire back to the new pump to take advantage of the two position switch, so now I have two redundant electric fuel pumps. The new Lucas switch is easily found so all I had to do was swap the plastic paddles, it can't easily be distinguished from the original.

    I also spent an incredible amount of time and energy getting my mechanical pump to work under all conditions but we'll see how long that last. I also think the stuff California tells us is gasoline is part of the problem.

    I also found a simple way to get an idea of how your pumps are producing, flip the gas door up, there is a small fuel return tube right below the filler neck. It should be producing a healthy piss stream of fuel when the car is idling, if not, you may have a problem. It should even produce when the car is being reved up, at least my car does.
     
  8. 12659

    12659 Formula Junior

    Oct 6, 2005
    349
    Seattle WA. USA
    Full Name:
    mark
    Don: The 365 GT 2+2 was designed to run electric fuel pumps. Someone at the factory made an executive decision!
     
  9. jcavalie

    jcavalie Formula Junior
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    Jun 4, 2005
    660
    Oakland, CA
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    Jim
    I like this idea of having a backup to the Fispa, inline. Hmm. May explore that further. Tom Yang has done this to cars also.

    I do see fuel in the return line, so I think I'm good there, at least when things are working!
     
  10. donv

    donv Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 5, 2002
    26,105
    Portland, Oregon
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    Don
    Then what are the "autoflux" switch and light for?

     
  11. Dogdish

    Dogdish Formula Junior

    Dec 27, 2005
    367
    Denver
    My mech pump wasn't working very well on my old Queen. I rebuilt it, but also used a thinnest gasket I could find to move the pump body closer to engine, thus increasing the stroke of pump. I could use the mech most of the time. Electric had to come on for starting, idling in traffic (vapor lock) and long pulls in a few gears.

    Bill
     
  12. Jumprun

    Jumprun Karting

    Feb 7, 2012
    227
    Southern California
    Full Name:
    T. Martinez
    On the GTC a blue warning light on the tachometer is illuminated when the paddle switch marked "A" is activated to run the electric pump. The "A" stands for "Auxiliary" but considering all the trouble it takes to get the mechanical pump to properly work maybe it should be marked "P" for primary!

    Even the original Fispa electric pump is a little finicky, with the bridge, lever and solenoid, it looks like a miniature circus show when it's working, this is why even after restoring the mechanism I added a modern redundant pump.

    Tom in SoCal
     
  13. yale

    yale Formula Junior

    May 2, 2004
    744
    New York City
    Couple of notes, from my experience with both, the Bendix pump puts out more fuel then the Fispa, and your car's drivers manual says to turn the electric pump on in traffic. So you are better off with the Bendix, (though I do miss the clicking).
     
  14. TTR

    TTR F1 Veteran
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    Mar 29, 2007
    5,889
    Riverside, CA
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    Timo
    Did you happened to record outputs of pressure and/or volume for both ?
    Were both or either new, (freshly) rebuilt or used ?
    Just curious.
     
  15. DWR46

    DWR46 Formula 3
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    Jun 19, 2012
    2,038
    Timo: Most of the rebuilt FISPA pumps we test put out 2.5-3.0 psi. The original "Silver Cap" Bendix pumps put out 3.5-4.5 psi.
     
  16. SCantera

    SCantera F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 4, 2004
    5,834
    Living Falls NC
    Jim...having two different GTCs over a 20 year span I had issues with the mechanical pump as others have mentioned. I had it rebuilt on both cars. On the first I "shaved" the spacer that insulates the mechanical pump from the case. That adjustment did increase the throw of the rocker helping keep pressure with the mechanical. But even after rebuilding the mechanical pump the Fispa was a requirement in hot driving conditions whether temperature or traffic related. My guess is that Ferrari knew they had a problem and added the Fispa as a bandaid. Just a guess though.

    A few years ago I was driving from Naples to Orlando for the Celebration event in mid April. All was sound and solid for the entire trip....well almost. Just when I pulled off the I-4 exit for Celebration the engine died. As the saying goes it's either electric or fuel related. Confirming I had electric to the Fispa it was clear that the pump had failed. I opened the trunk, removed the lead hammer used for wheel removal and "whacked" the Fispa. The rapid clicking resumed and off I went.

    A few weeks later I replaced the Fispa with a Holley pump. I do miss the clickety clack but I now don't worry about being stranded from pump failure.

    I think that was the one and only time where "hit it with a hammer" style of repair actually made sense....lol.
     
  17. Birel

    Birel Formula 3

    Sep 12, 2005
    1,953
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    Andrew Turner
    What a joyfully beautiful thread to read, people actually discussing how to get the best driving experience from their cherished cars, not worried about a points deduct to achieve platino, or a reject item to get Classiche, just honest solutions how best to enjoy real time driving. Almost makes me wish the market reversal goes long and hard so I can once again afford to own a GTC !!
     
  18. DWR46

    DWR46 Formula 3
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    Jun 19, 2012
    2,038
    The Ferrari fuel system is well thought out. It is a matter of where the priorities are. The pushrod stroke of the mechanical pump is only about .090". This is on purpose to prevent diaphragm destruction at sustained high revs. Ferrari designed the engine for sustained high rpm, and the pump drive is made to sacrifice low speed fuel delivery so it will stay together at 7,500 rpm for hours. The amount of pump stroke required to provide full fuel pressure to a hot engine at 700 rpm would cause the diaphragm to rupture prematurely at 8,000 rpm.

    In our vintage racing American V-8's, we used to try to use the original mechanical pumps as well as electric pumps to maintain the original configuration. However, we constantly destroyed the diaphragms in the mechanical pumps, even after going to aftermarket "high performance" pumps. These "high performance" pumps were designed for drag racing and a short period of elevated rpm. On a road course after a 20 minute session at 7,000 rpm, the diaphragm just gave up. Now we "gut" the mechanical pump (so it looks correct) and just run the electrics. Ferrari installed the FISPA units to ensure adequate fuel at low rpm when hot, as well as for ease of cold starting. The factory's one design failure was in placing the electric pump above the exhaust pipes. Back then with the fuels of the day having a relatively high boiling point, that was not a problem. However, today with modern fuels blended for high pressure injection, they have very low boiling points and this causes the pumps to cavitate (the fast clicking with no fuel delivery) easily in hot conditions.
     
  19. TTR

    TTR F1 Veteran
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    Mar 29, 2007
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    Timo
    Thanks for good reference data.
     
  20. jcavalie

    jcavalie Formula Junior
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    Jun 4, 2005
    660
    Oakland, CA
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    Jim
    Thanks everyone. I've learned a lot about my car from both driving it and asking questions here when I've observed things. This community is such a tremendous resource and as Birel said, I really enjoy "discussing how to get the best driving experience from [our] cherished cars."

    And Steve - maybe I'll put my lead hammer back in the trunk! I keep a center lock tool and ratchet bar in case of needed wheel change. The rest of my tools are stored safely at my home.
     
  21. Simon1965

    Simon1965 Formula Junior

    Feb 8, 2011
    268
    HKSAR
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    Simon
    #21 Simon1965, Jun 28, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The whole issue of the fuel systems on 330s is very interesting
    My 330 GT 2+2 has both the machanical and the electric pumps.
    I usually need both to get the best out of the car.
    Yes when the car is running v warm either because of a hard drive or because of the weather
    I get the vapor trap that's is so often talked about.
    Keep the electric one on is my suggestion

    Here is an interesting diagram from a previous post
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  22. Lowell

    Lowell Formula 3
    Owner

    Apr 17, 2005
    1,165
    Santa Fe, NM
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    Lowell Brown
    Really? No fuel rail return to the gas tank?

    That's not what Tav. 8 of the GTC parts book shows.

    Sometime a piece of paper is worth a thousand emails.
     
  23. jcavalie

    jcavalie Formula Junior
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    Jun 4, 2005
    660
    Oakland, CA
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    Jim
    My GTC basically matches that diagram, as I understand it, but I do have the return to the gas tank. You can watch it "piss" a healthy stream if the gas cap is open.
     
  24. peterp

    peterp F1 Veteran

    Aug 31, 2002
    6,681
    NJ
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    Peter
    Great info as usual Dyke. I've always wondered what the rationale was behind the Fispa pump and your post explains it. I still don't like the Fispa, but now I at least understand it and that helps me not like it less :). I'm still curious why they didn't just fit another electric pump instead of using a mechanical pump.

    I'm not positive, but I think the fuel return line was added sometime during the middle of the 330 GT production cycle. If my recollection is correct, the early 330 GT's didn't have it and later ones do.
     
  25. DWR46

    DWR46 Formula 3
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    Jun 19, 2012
    2,038
    #25 DWR46, Jun 29, 2016
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2016
    The 330 GTC and 274 GTB/4 were the first street Ferrari's to have "fuel return" systems. All the previous models did not. The "return" system was designed to help keep the fuel cooler by constantly recirculating excess fuel back to the tank. This was the first attempt to fight vapor lock due to heat, as traffic in both Europe and America was becoming heavier and more congested by the mid-1960's. Also the "return" system provides a pathway for pressure relief caused by boiling fuel due to "heat soak" after engine shut off in high temps. Without the return line, any fuel boiling in hot fuel lines would be forced into the carburetors and cause them to overflow into the engine.
     

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