355 fans replaced with SPAL 30102113

Thanks to those who researched theses fans.
They are cheap on Amazon and have the correct oem plugs.

I immediately noticed a higher pitch, faster running fan. The car no longer has idle drop when the fans click on.

You must transfer the plastic bolt brackets from the old fans to the new fans

Conditioned and reused the rubber gasket that goes behind each fan.

You have to make a curved wrench ( heat and bend) to reach around to the back side of the oil cooler to hold the bolt as you unscrew the nut on the front side ofthe oil cooler fan (passenger side ). Outside bolts only (on mine).
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Rock n Roll, Skipp

 

cool to know

 

what is the pricing?

 

https://www.amazon.com/Spal-30102113-Curved-Blade-Performance/dp/B003PB48YA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467385375&sr=8-1&keywords=SPAL+30102113

 

excellent price at CDN$ 194.03

 

Nice

I'm a big fan of variable speed controllers, may want to try them out they rule

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-QVZpux5lM[/ame]

 

Nice job Skipp. I did that thread eons ago about the fans....they really are a great upgrade, while remaining with an OEM direct fit and look. I've done three cars so far, including my own...about to do a fourth for a friend. Such an easy and quick swap.

 

They are super loud! The whine is like a turbine spooling. I hardly noticed the fans before (partly because my left hand side never worked) but now when it cycles on I can hear it with the windows up and over my super loud Tubi evolution exhaust when sitting at the lights.

They must be super effective though as my right hand side fan has never been active since I made the switch to the new fan.

 

The replacement SPAL fans are no louder than the original non sealed bearing SPAL fans.

 

Even the OP says he noticed a higher pitched sound. My left hand side wasn't working before but it is indeed louder than other 355s. It's sounds stronger and powerful. It does a great job too.

 

A respected tech suggested spal 30102050.

What's the difference?

 

Spal 30102050 is VA18-AP71/LL-59A - somewhat lower specs than Ferrari's

Spal 30102113 is VA18-AP70/LL/F-59A - OEM Ferrari secs

See attached datasheets.

 

Sorry, here are the "attached specs"
View attachment 30102050 - VA18-AP71_LL-59A (lower Specs).pdf
View attachment 30102113 - VA18-AP70-LL-F-59A (OEM Ferrari Specs).pdf

 

Actually, 30102050 is not just "somewhat" lower specs but much lower:

30102050 1959 cfm, 21.5 Amp
30102113 3000 cfm, 26.0 Amp

I read that some use 30102050 because it is much quieter. Obviously, 30102113 with its 3000 cfm has to be loud. 30102113 also looks much more efficient if you look at the Cfm/Amp ratio.

 

I have the 30102050 fans in my 1996 Spider and can enthusiastically recommend them over the OEM fans. I can just barely hear them when they come on. They are very quite. They only draw 21.5 amps so there won't ever be melting fuse boxes with these fans as has happened to others with the OEM fans. Although they only have about 2000 CFM, they cool the car just as well as the OEM fans did. No matter how hot it gets during the summer here in Kansas City (upper 90's to occasionally 100), the car never gets warmer than 190. The fans only cycle when I'm in stop and go traffic in town.

So, the moral to this story.....get the lower amp fans if you need to replace yours. Quieter, lower current draw and, in my experience, equal cooling to the OEMs. Can't ask for more that that.

 

I changed mine to the lower spec and kept the working old fans. I have yet to track the car since but have any racers change to the lower spec and had a problem? They do work fine on the street but nit sure if they will work when tracking in hot climates.

Mitch any insite?

 

What actually overloads the alternator is not the 2 x 26A running current of the OEM fans but their start-up current which is, for a brief period of time, about 3 times the running current. So, on 348's we are talking about 150 Amps since both fans start at the same time.

There are 3 ways to reduce the start-up impact on the alternator:

1. A timer to delay, for a few seconds, the start of the second fan (on a 348); not perfect solution but brings benefit. Better solutions:

2. A PWM Controller - This is what I installed on my 348. The PWM Controllers are Denso from a Toyota. If just inserted, one at each fan, they will gradually ramp-up the fans from zero to full speed over a few seconds completely avoiding the 150 Amps start-up current surge (the current will slowly ramp-up from 0 to 26 Amps). These PWM controllers have a separate pin (not used in the mentioned application) which can be used to make the fans variable speed depending on the coolant temperature. This would require a Triangular Wave Form Generator (one chip) and a temp. sensor (a Thermistor). I have DIY'd this (not for my 348) but it is better to by a complete aftermarket PWM Controller if you are not into DIY electronics.

3. A powerful (big, ceramic) resistor at each fan, about 0.8 Ohm, to limit the start-up current, each with a relay (controlled by a timer) to by-pass the resistor after a few seconds and bring the fans to the full speed. I have also installed this kind of fan start-up current control on one of my cars.

 

excellent info in this post

 

Small correction:

30102050 is 2024 cfm at 19.5 Amp when working as a suction fan; the figures I posted earlier are when working as pusher fan

 

So exceeding original amperage and cfm with the 2113 model would not be prudent?

 

I'm sure either application will work fine. It's my understanding that the amp draw problem with the OEM spec occurres as the fans age and degrade due to not being sealed from dirt, etc. At less than 1k miles per year and no rainy day driving, I think I'll not have to worry to much about degradation.

 

Unkess something has changed this was facts a few years ago

Not my post buy Hughs



Okay, after two days of phone calls and emails, I have some new information on the SPAL radiator fans. Please bear with me, as it took a while to get the "correct" info, as some of the specs and information are not current or accurate that you find online.

The factory correct, oem fan is the SPAL 30102113. This fan has the following characteristics, 2467 cfm output, 27.5 amp current draw, and uses an unsealed motor. It comes with the correct weatherproof electric plug already installed, and sells for $220 each from the Fan Man: http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/size....html?cPath=33 (note he claims 3000 cfm and 22.5 amp, but the SPAL tech support says that is incorrect, the latest spec sheets he has say it is 2467 cfm and 27.5 amps). SPAL USA will quote you the specs, and in fact sent me a copy, but requested I not post it to this forum, and I will respect that request. (but the document confirms what he quoted me)

Here is the factory product info: http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102113 no spec sheet available on the spal website


I also found out that the fan we have been previously using is available with the correct electrical connector already on the fan itself, saving the work of splicing the old one on. It is the 30102050: http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30102050
Here is the spec sheet:http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/30102050_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH
Same specs as the 30102049 we have used previously. 2028 cfm, and 21 amp currrent draw, just the same as the 30102049 (not 2070 cfm and 18.4 amps as listed on the Fan Man website). The only issue is the Fan Man does not stock them, and would have to special order them from SPAL USA.



So here is where it gets interesting. The first question, is why has SPAL USA repeatedly given us the 30102049/30102050 as the correct replacement? The reason is the factory part number (VA18-AP6-42A) is an oem number that is not in their system. So based on physical dimensions, they recommended the highest output oem type fan. We were finally able to determine with greater accuracy what fan this was when I described the heavier gauge wires, and holes machined in the motor housing. The SPAL tech was surprised Ferrari was using the 30102113 fan in an oem application. So what is special about the factory oem 30102113? It is a "race" application fan, with an unsealed motor, and what they consider a much shorter life span. Mainly it has some extra windings on the fan motor to increase rpms. It also has 12 gauge wires, rather than 14 gauge for the additional current. But one important difference is the motor is unsealed. It has two holes in the bottom of the motor casing, for air movement/cooling. This allows air, water, dust and dirt to enter the motor housing and bearings. The SPAL tech I spoke to had concerns with using this motor in an "oem" application, as it will have much shortened life over their sealed motor designs. SPAL does not even offer a warranty with these fans. Here is their disclaimer:

"Disclaimer: This fan is designed for use in paved oval stock car racing. The fan motor is not sealed and should not be used in the following conditions. 1. High dust, dirt, and/or wet environments. 2. Unusually high ambient temperatures (exceeding 176 degrees F). 3. extended/continuous modes of operation exceeding one hour in duration. Standard warranty conditions do not apply to this fan."

The SPAL tech says that as long as there are no cooling issues, he recommends sticking with the 30102050 as it will have much longer life than the 30102113. I spoke with Dave Helms this morning, and he says he has seen no problems with using the 30102050 fans, and concurs that it would be his preference as well, but for a different reason; he likes that it draws 6 amps less current. He stated that even if the duty cycle was an extra 15 or 20 seconds to pull down the temperature, that would be an acceptable compromise for the lower current draw and stress on the fragile fuse box.

I think we have found the reason for the short life span with the oem fan motors, and why they draw excessive current as they age. They are not designed for this application, at least from a durability aspect. They are designed for maximum cooling without concerns for longevity. They are also running right near the maximum amperage for the 30 amp circuit at 27.5 amps, not leaving much margin for eventual wear and tear and increased current draw.

So there you have it. Oem fan 30102113 is $220 with 2467 cfm and 27.5 amp current, or 30102050 for $117 with 2028 cfm and 21.5 amp. The choice is up to the owner. There is a 439 cfm less air flow with the 30102050, but it seems to be negligible based on the users on this forum (I have yet to hear of anyone having cooling issues using the 30102049/30102050 fans. To be honest, I have not noticed my fans running any longer than before, with the original fans.

If anyone IS having an issue using the 30102049/30102050 please Chime in.

Thanks to Hugh