Tubi Headers, Tubi test pipes, Bigg Daddies Catted O2 extenders....P1448 code

Make sure the thermocouple is installed and plugged in.

 

1448 is the cat overheating at the center bypass valve. Make sure you plug in the thermal couple and make sure the TCU works. You can swap TCU around to see if the error code follows the TCU.

 

Skipp,

Since you didn't have the code before and the thing you changed on that TC was the bypass valve, I would make sure that it is functioning correctly.

There was no reason for them to have unplugged the TC to install the test pipes or bypass valve but if for some reason they did, make sure they didn't swap the TC/SDECU on the right side also.

 

not sure. but I think the vacuum for the bypass has to be reversed with the Capristo BPV?

keep in mind the capristo is default open, as opposed to default closed with oem.

so regular cruising around where the BPV would otherwise be closed, the capristo needs to get vacuum to close under those condition etc.. vice/versa.

so the code you're getting for the by pass thermo prob is likely because the ecu is looking
at it like like a wired open oem bp valve where the prob is getting continues exhaust steam. etc

 

Skipp, easy way to do this is swap the TCU and see if the code moves. You can simply swap the wires as the TCU's are on the same panel. RH side, corner of rear bumper.

 

If you don't more the thermocouple and only swap the wire, if the code moves, bad TCU. If it stays the same, swap the thermocouple. If that causes the code to move, bad thermocouple.

Not sure why you light is not going out. Be sure to clear pending codes too.

 

Skipps pi448 code issue:
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Guess the tech was not all that careful.

 

Another pic. The TC was clearly shot internally.

The professional techs that I have worked with on these confirm that they are an item that regularly fails over time. The environment adjacent to the Cats and the bypass valve where these are located is the harshest in the engine bay.

Not a big deal if you diagnose it correctly and replace it.
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Given all was well before the car was worked on, along what looks like a bend over TC, it seems reasonable to suggest that this failure was based on an external influence and not a component failure.

Regardless, Skipp, I'm glad you found the issue - that's really all that matters.

 

Hi Skipp, ask the people driving behind you and get back to us

Also, for those wanting OEM parts, Eurospares has OEM Thermocouples for $152.00

 

+100. We've used the Dr. Bob TCs on several occasions. Not only is the price attractive, the quality is far superior to the overpriced OEM units. Shop local, be happy!

 

That is the person with the most relevant opinion.

 

At an OEM price point of $152, that's pretty reasonable IMO especially for a part that rarely fails as confirmed by long time, factory master techs. It's also a very simple part and I'm not understanding how one could be so far superior in quality. And OEM units have the proper threaded nuts that have not been re tapped as some of the DIY assembled TC were made. In Skipp's case here, the faliure was some outside influence that broke the part. Very different than a component that just stopped working.

 

Thanks Skipp. I'm glad it worked out.

I know you just did the Capristo bypass valve but I have made the thermocouples for guys that have Capristo exhausts with the lead about 6" longer to allow the bung to be assessed properly. Don't know if the valve in your case was interfering.

The thermocouples have a reinforced strain relief crimp at the junction to the probe that is sturdier than the OEM design. Most of the failures occur at the joint due to the heat and vibration just inches from the cat.

I have provided over a 100 of these to shops, end users and suppliers. The OEM units do fail as I know personally in my car and from all the people I have provided replacements for..

All nuts are drilled and tapped whether they are the ones provided with the OEM units by an automated process or by me. This is how nuts are made.

Thanks for the kind words and you know where I am if you need anything.

The Big Daddy's are working here also. Thank you to David Feinberg for that tip. He is a wealth of knowledge.

 

For those that don't know about metal cutting and are interested, fasteners are made by starting with raw materials and some threads are made by forming, single point turning and tapping. In all cases, new parts don't have existing threads drilled out to change the thread size. That is a less than ideal situation for those that care. Also, when machining stainless steel, if using cutting tools not made of solid carbide, post machining passivation is performed to prevent rust from iron particles left behind from the cutting tools.

These proper processes along with the design, testing, overhead, warranty and service of true, legitimate businesses all add to the cost of components.

Obviously it up to the individual to determine the proper direction that suits their needs and comfort level. For me, if I'm taking my car to a shop, I want OEM parts to be used or other options discussed with me prior.

Skipp, very glad your car is sorted. That's the most important part!

 

Dave why are you trolling Skipps thread? Isn't that an activity that is frowned up?