Dino ign box

Hello to all
I am working on a Euro car #04740 and the owner wants me to put in a updated ignition box as he does not trust the Dinoplex, however looking at what is there it appears to be something different. Has anybody out there seen this unit and is it any good ?
I searched the internet with the name and number on the box and could not find anything

Darryl
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Looks like an aftermarket ignition box of the period. Why doesn't trust the owner a Dinoplex? Usually there is no need to replace it by anything 'better'. I hope he'll trust the Dino engine.

 

What's there looks period but definitely not original. If you're looking for an OEM-look modern solution I can highly recommend Fred Winterburn's replacement. He dropped modern innards into my original ignition module housing and I'm very happy with the much-improved performance, particularly because the look is identical to OEM with no external ballast resistors or other crap.

 

This is one of the contemporary AEC103A replacements/replicas which were made in the early to mid seventies, similar to the CDS DAE 181 or ELMA Torino. It should be finde but considering that it now is about 40 years old i would plan on a replacement before it fails.

Fred's CDI is a very nice replacement of the original Dinoplex CDI internals, and it works with the existing points setup and coil, although i would also replace the coil while you at it. A good and robust replacement is MSD's Blaster 2 coil.

If you want to go one step further and also replace the points setup, there is the optical pickup/Bosch conversion which has been installed in many Dino's and works quite well. Here is a thread about the conversion:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/206-246/276251-rebuilding-dinoplex-aec103a.html

 

I echo Mark's and Adrian's comments of the Winterburn CDI. I love mine. It has been utterly reliable.

Freeman

 

Dino friends,
I appreciate the endorsement by Mark, Adrian and Freeman. As far as retrofits for the AEC 103, I should make it plain that so far I have only done one such conversion. Freeman is using one of my standard production models and Mark has the conversion which has been working now for over a year. The conversion is slightly different than my standard production model and makes the unit identical in function and wiring to the original AEC103 (but in my opinion much better). Also it is not potted so that it can be repaired should that ever be necessary. There are no secrets inside that can't be easily sorted by someone with moderate electronic ability should a repair be needed 20 years hence. I charge $400 Canadian for the service plus the postage costs that must be incurred by the owner of the case. Also, I do not remove the old internals even though I have done it once. I leave that risk to the owner as well as the restoration of the case, otherwise the cost would have to double for my risk in possibly breaking your equipment.
I also do not provide kits for the retrofit which a few people have asked for. To retain the quality I wish to provide, I do not entrust that to the owner. Sorry, but that is the way it is. If anyone is interested in a retrofit, please contact me first before removing the old internals and potting. You don't have to drill anything and I use the original threaded portions of the case to secure the new board. Fred Winterburn

 

If anyone has a spare original AEC103 I'm happy to buy it.

 

There is a company in Holland i think that does a modern electronic ignition for the dino, also a lot of other dino stuff. I had some info on it a while ago.

 

I have re-casted these AEC103 boxes, I still have a few of them left. They are empty so no need to remove epoxy etc.etc.

I made them to convert Fiat 130's where this ignition was a factory option (so very few 130's have this AEC103 case). They are good replica's and I have made the casting mould so that they are ready to mount an ignition module inside. This because if I install the case I also convert the cars to 'Adrians bosch ignition setup'.
What defers from the original case is the connector, I use a 6 pin connector instead of the 4 pin connector. This makes it easier to do the Bosch conversion and it's the only standard connector I could find that has fixation holes to mount the connector in the case.

I also have cases without connector so that in case you have the original connector (and it looks like the one on your picture is identical to the original AEC103 connector) you can mount that one instead.

If you prefer the Winterburn ignition setup Fred Winterburn can most likely tell you if he can build his ignition inside this box. The inside of the box is slightly different because I removed some of the original mounting positions in the case because they are of no use when mounting an ignition module inside.
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Stefan,
Nice work! My circuit should fit into that case just as well as an original case. Now if someone were to make the correct connector the package would be complete. I have seen pictures of some reproduction cases and they do not look good, but yours does. I'm glad you posted as it should give some folks more options when their AEC 103 dies. Some of the dead cases I've seen on the internet for sale are badly corroded and cost way too much, (even for a Ferrari owner), and wouldn't clean up well.
As far as the original AEC 103 circuit goes, I was not impressed by what I saw when I took one apart. The quality control was very poor. One component that should have been heat sunk to the case, had its heat sink completely surrounded by potting and the circuit board was quite deformed in two places by the poor mounting. Potting can hide a lot of sins. Also the circuit was far more complex than it needs to be. No voltage control either, but that tends to be the norm with most designs. Fred

 

Stefan, very nice and clean conversion, cool! You could use the original Tyco four terminal connector if you use headless screws inside the enclosure to lock the housing into place.

 

That's good to hear Fred that it will fit inside the box. If someone would be able to reproduce the connector that would be great. Otherwise I will check the Tyco 4 pin connector as alhbln mentions.
These cases are replica's but they do look good. You could notice by the fact that these are sand-cast cases so they are slightly rougher than original. But every case I make I put a lot of time and effort into it to make it as smooth as possible after the casting process. Just installing them right out of the mold would take a fraction of the time compared to doing it this way but that's the way it is.
I think though that I will need to have some more reproduced because I'm already running out of stock.
By the way, soon (probably after summer due to holliday's etc.) I will also have the bigger AEC101 Dinoplex C reproduced, just working on the mold right now.

 

Great work, I do like to see unavailable items re-made for the benefit of owners and the Dino community.
Beware though, there are some buffoons on here who have a complete dislike for repro items. Just ignore them
Tony

 

All good news for the Dino owner!

Freeman

 

Stefan -

Congratulations!

Now, Tony -

I have NO dislike for reproduction items that are essential for the safe, efficient, and regular operation of a Dino. My concern, however, has been about items that are NOT essential for safe and efficient operation that are easily capable of being passed off as original by a reseller when they are not, and that reseller then sells them for the same price as true originals.

You have made it clear that the very accurate tool sets that you produced and have sold are reproductions (of very cheaply made original tools that no one would now actually use to work on a Dino), but a reseller can easily resell them as originals, at the same price as originals, when they are not.

Mark

 

Now Mark, you cannot pick and choose to suit yourself. Reproduction items are just that, regardless of what its for.

If that's your personal preference then fine, it may not be others.

Tony

 

Thanks all.
We'll i'll leave that up to people themselves to decide if they are OK with a replica or not.
But selling stuff as original if it's not a 101% correct replica is not fair but happens often enough.
Making parts like this in small quantities is always a lot of work to do it right, it's quite tempting to cut some corners because the last 10% is 90% of the work (just like with restorations in general) which makes it commercially a lot more interesting to cut this last 10%.
But since I'm tired of tracing ebay (and tired of receiving bad quality parts to often) every time I need a part that is not/randomly available I just decided to reproduce the specific part if I have a hard time tracing it.

 

Just to get back to reproducing the AEC101 cases. First one is placed in my Fiat Dino and the second one is on it's way to a Ferrarichatter. Hope he will chime in after receiving it and comments about the quality (good or bad).
I have a couple rough castings here that still needs machining etc. but in case someone is looking for an AEC101 case I can deliver them. I know most of the AEC101's used on 246 had the bakelite switch body but so far I can only deliver them with the aluminum switch body. If I can get my hands on a bakelite one I will have them reproduced as well (some day...)
First picture finished case, second picture finished case versus original dinoplex case.
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what is inside the 101 box?
is it a simple plug and play? are you using the original style connectors?

 

It's empty and you could put in there whatever you prefer (MSD/Bosch/Winterburns ignition?) but I could install an MSD ignition or Bosch module in there as well.
This Dinoplex does not really have an electrical connector like the smaller AEC103's but I have made the 'wire-feedthrough' just like it is on the original ones.
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With all the knowledge shown on this thread, I wonder if anyone knows where I might locate an empty Dinoplex F AEC 102 box - image and ID information attached. Internals are not needed, just a box in good condition regardless of cosmetics.

Many thanks.
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I can only assume that locating a box like that will be very difficult.
But reading on dinoplex.org it should be possible to take a 'normal AEC101' case, remove the casted type description and stamp the correct description in there. Than making it the correct color etc. etc.
In that case you could use one of my dinoplex boxes I just produced.
But I would suggest to conctact alhbln here, he knows everything about this subject and will be able to give you some more info.

 

I purchased one of Stefan Elshouts AEC101CA Dinoplex cases. I am in the process of fitting it with an MSD 6AL Digital ignition circuit.
Stefans casting is a very faithful reproduction in appearance and materials. His finish machining is excellent. If you are looking to looking to replace a missing Dinoplex Ignition box, Stefans product is perfect for the job.

I will post pictures of the MSD circuit fit when completed.