355F1 Immobiliser Problem?

In my 96, I turn the car off and throw the keys in the console. I never set the alarm or lock the doors. It always chirps twice and flashes some dash lights when I hit the FOB button to start.

 

Steve, what i would do is wait until it happens again and be ready with some tools to check for injector pulse and spark. This would narrow down your search. Cheers Andy. ☺

 

Not all version of the system chirp or flash the indicators, this is a country specific thing as different end markets have different rules regarding noise pollution. USA version should beep (chirp), a European car won't.
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Yours is a UK car, it's not supposed to chirp.

 

The bypass replaces the immobilizer interface, its function is to trick the immobilizer in to thinking its always disarmed.
All this does is eliminate the need to press the fob to disarm the immobilizer (perhaps best described as a "fob eliminator") , BUT it doesn't replace or remove the immobilizer which is still very much a part of the starting system of the car . If the immobilizer fails, ( bypass or not ) the car won't run.

 

Thanks, good to know. Would like to rid the car of the whole mess!

 

It's not a setting that can be changed by the owner or dealer. .
The system may have been changed when the car was complied for Australia as the UK fobs operate on 433Mhz which is not authorized for that purpose in Australia (has to be 315 Mhz, same as the USA).

 

Guys, this is another example where the model year (and perhaps market) shows differences.

For example, through the Fchat members, we have determined the following immobilizer difference (one example)

96-97 - when the immobilizer is active, the starter will not turn over.

98 and up - when the immobilizer is active, the starter will turn over but the car just won't start

My 98 was basically a virgin car when I got it - the system only chirps on setting the alarm or disarming it. If the alarm is off and I press the fob to disable the immobilizer, it does not chirp and it never has.

 

Steve - have you tried replacing the FOB battery or trying a different FOB? Pardon me if I missed it.

 

Steve, it may not matter but it's certain cheap and easy - I'd replace the battery again.

For the records, my battery is 3 years old and I only have one FOB. I do keep spare batteries and a screw driver in my in-car tool kit which is a pretty large kit of all kinds of stuff

 

Who says you need the chirp for your car to crank over ? Fab has nothing to do with your engine to crank over with the key on a F1 car.

 

My 99 same as Daves. We could have found similarities between years ie the older ones allways chirp and maybe will not crank unless chirp is heard.

The newer ones dont allways chirp but crank even if not disarmed just wont start.

 

Ha ha mine too. I have a spare coil, spare exhaust themocouple, spare transmission sensor under gearbox, spare speedometer sensor, and spare fuses for the F1. All of which could strand me but not anymore. I think I coverd everything.

I am not afraid to drive my car for days on a road trip.

 

I think my recent battery is about 4 years cause I changed at my last major and its due in a year. Probably will change it now but I do take both extra fobs if on a road trip.

 

Not trying to be rude Michael but I think Bobs will not turn over in his 97 F1 without the fob button disarming first.

I think I am remembering correct.

I think Dave said this in post 36

 

It varies from model to model and, apparently, from MY to MY for the F355, which were the first Ferraris to offer Motronic 5.2, the 3 fob system, and OBDII, which was required by January 1996. 550s will not turn over unless the immobilizer is disarmed. 575s will turn over but not start.

Lots of misconceptions on fobs. All can be cloned. No difference between a black fob and red fob in operation after the set is initially memorized by the alarm ECU. You cannot use the red fob to do anything except the same things a black fob does, ie arm and disarm the system. You cannot use the red fob to program the alarm ECU to accept a new black fob because the ECU will not put itself into learn mode using the same PIN that it already has memorized. So use whichever fob you want to.

Half the time with fobs, it is not the battery that is faulty, but the contacts have spread enough to not make a good connection, especially if you carry the fob in your pocket. I change all my fob batteries on January 1st so I do not forget them. On July 4th, I change the battery in the fob always in my pocket, mainly to make sure contacts are still tight. When you change batteries, first pinch the contacts together, then insert the battery, then spin it to remove any surface corrosion. I have even been known to put drop of battery corrosion preventer on the contacts with a toothpick.

Get a leather cover for the fob. Will save you if you ever drop the fob and prevents beating it up with keys, knives, or whatever else you carry in your pockets.

Any questions, most are covered in this document, except I need to add a paragraph on Immofixer in Australia and one on the immobilizer bypass that is now available. Been too lazy.

I actually carry a small screwdriver and spare battery in a pill container (with insulation on both ends) on my other key ring, not the one with car keys on it. Lets you rebuild your fob if you need to. Total investment, about $7.
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No problem Grant,I just have never seen a F1 car that won't.But with Ferrari you never know.We are all just trying to help. I kind of had the same problem with a weak fab battery.

 

Michael- Varies with Ferrari model on whether one turns over or not.