1986 Mondial won't start

Can you hear fuel pump running when ignition first switched on?

 

What versiom 1986 Mondial? US or euro?

 

Back story? It was running at some point, what's happened / been done since it last started properly?

 

First welcome to the family!

Mr Steve will answer your questions but more detail is needed

1) "does not fire up" mean no spark at the plugs?
2) does it have gas?
plus the answer to the above questions

 

Pull a plug wire and hold it against the block and turn the engine over..does it spark?

 

Actually you can see sparks better in the dark!

sorry to ask simple yes or no questions

not trying to insult I didnt want to go off the deep end on troubleshooting !

 

Fuel
Spark
Air

That is all it needs to run.

Sounds like "no spark," and you may have a fault in the ECU since neither bank will fire. Since it happened so suddenly, I am betting something wiring wise broke or came loose.
Alden

 

Crank position sensor failure?

 

Sounds like the recent issue I had with the TR. Does the Mondial share the same/similar architecture, i.e. banks split with two seperate ignition modules with one primarily talking to the tach relay?

 

(The OP has not responded with what version -- and there are 1986 euro MondialQV out there -- so this assumes it's a Mondial3.2) Yes and no. 1986 Mondial3.2 (all versions) and TR have very similar ignition systems (one MicroPlex ECU, 2 coils, 2 power modules, 2 distributors, one flywheel TDC sensor, one flywheel RPM sensor), but no tachometric relay on the Mondial3.2 -- it uses the safety switch on the fuel distributor to cut +12V power going to the fuel pump if the engine is not actually running and drawing in air. So if a Mondial3.2 loses one bank of ignition (either bank), it's still happy to keep running as a 4-cyl.

You shouldn't unless something has been modified -- i.e., with the key "on" (engine not running) and the safety switch plugged in, nothing should be running. Since you've confirmed that you have spark during cranking (on both banks?), unplug the (bluish) safety switch on the fuel distributor and then turn the key "on":

1. the fuel pump should run, and

2. if a US version, the frequency valve should be buzzing/vibrating.

We'll give you a Mulligan on that one -- but a good test to repeat once you unplug the safety switch to get the conditions where the FP will run with just the key "on" and engine not actually running.

If you have a US version that does have a Protection Relay, my recollection is that it doesn't have anything to do with running the fuel pump, but it does run the frequency valve = so if you confirm the fuel pump does run, but the frequency valve is not buzzing = that justifies looking at the Protection Relay operation/non-operation.

 

Well, at least you now know what has to be fixed

If you've already checked the fuse (and its OK), the next diagnostic step would be to remove the fuel pump relay and touch a jumper wire from the 30 female terminal in the relay socket to the 87 female terminal in the relay socket as shown here (key off):
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If the fuel pump runs (it should) = try a different ...113 fuel pump relay and a different ...101 start injector relay, and repeat the unplugged blue safety switch test.

If the fuel pump doesn't run = bad sign for the fuel pump or the fuse-relay panel (and will add more to test if this is your situation...)

 

Unbolt the top of air filter housing, remove the filter, & spray some starting fluid at the bottom of the air intake. Immediately try to start the engine. If it fires up for a brief moment, then your problem is a lack of fuel getting into the engine. Causes? Pump stopped working, filter clogged, injectors clogged, or ... ?

 

+1 for starting fluid test. The car should actually keep running, as long as you keep spraying the starting fluid.

If she still won't start, get a spare spark plug, and lay it on some grounded metal part of the engine with the plug wire attached. Have someone turn the engine over while you're looking for a good spark at the plug.