What's the going rate for installation of Headers and Exhaust?

Eric, from what I see on my end most labor time for header R&R is between 8-12 hours depending on how comfortable the shop of choice is with doing the install. Rates will vary between $100/hr - $150/hr.

 

If you can get the back wheels 10 inches off the floor and the front 6 inches then you can easily tackle this yourself. This will give you enough room to get to the manifolds.

 

Eric, you can easily do this yourself. My local F-dealer wanted $1600 fro the header install. Not sure how much they would want for an exhaust system installation. Installing the S-Line x-pipe is pretty easy, just remove under-tray and the diffuser. After t hat its all nuts and bolts.

About the header install, installing them is easy, removing them can be a total b!+**. On the left side there is a nut that is hard to reach due to how close the A/C motor is. On the right side I had a couple of nuts that took me hours to remove, I had stripped them and this straight forward header removal became a real chore.

Aldous Voice (a forum member here) has a forum where he goes over the header removal and installation.

As long as you have some way to get the car off the ground high enough to do the work, you'll be able to do this on your own.

 

this is what scares DIY'ers......

btw. spray down all exhaust nuts and bolts with PB Blaster (I prefer Kroil though) few days before removal will help quite a bit. even if you do take it to a mechanic, they would appreciate it.

 

Do you have access to a lift? That makes DIY quite simple. The only time consuming part is loosening all of the nuts from the header studs, plus many of the header studs will pull out of the head, so you'll need to release the nut and thread them back in to install the new headers.

If you have it done by a shop, make sure they know they don't need to remove the rear bumper, this will save time.

 

you need to fit new manifold nuts as these have a copper finish, the manifold studs tend to come out with the nuts attached and it is an idea to renew these. A useful tool is an M6 stud box to help remove and refit the studs, a lot better than 2 nuts locked together. I will do u a drawing if u have not seen one. You need to let off the AC compressor to give you that bit extra space, you can leave the hoses connected.

 

I have some. I didnt use them when I changed out the manifolds. I have all 16. PM me.

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

what is a stud box ?

 

All,

I am nearing completion of installing a new exhaust in Izzy consisting of Fabspeed headers with insulating blankets and Novitec everything else.

1. Almost all fasteners in the 430 exhaust system are M8 x 1.25. That’s M-EIGHT (8mm major thread diameter) not M6.

2. The manifold nuts are 12mm hex not the usual 13mm hex like almost all the other fasteners in the exhaust system.

3. It’s also a good idea to replace the bolts, sleeves, washers, springs, nuts and doughnuts at the header/cat joints. My Fabspeed header/Novitec cat joint needed longer 75mm bolts, available from McMaster-Carr.

4. Many fasteners aft of the headers are well and truly stuck and will require lots of penetrating oil (like PB Blaster) soaked overnight or longer.

5. You will need plenty of close quarters tools and socket accessories like a 12mm stubby wrench (saw the open end off a 12mm combination wrench), 3/8-drive universal joint 12mm socket, 3/8-drive universal joint, different length 3/8-drive extensions, stubby 3/8 ratchet, a split 12mm crowsfoot, a regular 12mm crowsfoot and maybe some other tools. I bought a ¼-drive, 250 in-lb torque wrench which is small enough to properly torque all the manifold nuts to 222 in-lbs dry or 200 in-lbs lubed. Make sure sockets and wrenches are completely on the fasteners before applying torque.

6. Apply a sparing amount of copper anti-seize like Loctite 37616 on every thread including the oxygen sensors and temperature sensors, being careful not to get any inside the exhaust piping.

7. Clean out empty stud holes (half of my studs backed out with nuts permanently attached) with a chasing tap available from ARP. Blow out the stud holes with compressed air or electronics duster.

8. Re-insert the studs (replace backed-out studs with new, they’re not very expensive) with a stud remover like a Snap-On CG500-2 with a 8 x 1.25mm collet (Snap-On CG500-37) or double nuts. Steel studs are inserted into aluminum parts ABSOLUTELY DRY and a tiny bit more than HAND TIGHT.

9. Allow plenty of time. This is not a one afternoon job.

Tom
2007 F430F1 Coupé (Izzy)

 

I have just done this job, The S-Line was easy (I did that first for various reasons) Only required removal of rear diffuser. This part of the work could be done in 1/2 a day.
The manifolds were a different issue. I was lucky to have access to a 4 post lift and could confidently say that without this, I would not tackle the job. I read Aldous Voice write-up several times and he does make it sound somewhat easier than it actually is. Even with the lift, the job took a good 8 hours. Fitting the new manifolds is the easy part, it,s removing the originals that takes the time. I suggest you get a big selection of 12mm wrenches and sockets.

Good luck - it can be done, but dont expect it to be a walk in the park.

GG-33

 

The gengleman is right about the studs being M8 and not M6 as i said, old age again.

A stud box for this needs to be made in a machine shop, you need a length of 19 A/F mm hexagon bar, cut this to 20 mm long. Now you need to drill and tap this M8 through the complete length. You screw this onto the stud about 3/4 of the way and you fit an M8 allen bolt into the other end. This locks it to the stud and you just screw it in.

Advantage is that it is short in such a tight space and it is easy to remove once the stud is in place. A lot easier than 2 nuts and a lot shorter than a collet type such as snap on.
If u need a sketch let me know

 

Quoted $900 for headers and s line installation at FMS, seemed fair to me so Andy will be doing the install along with my annual service.

 

An experienced shop can do a 4-1 header in 5-6 hours. A Capristo 4-2-1 header... 8-10 hours. The exhaust is the easy part.

 

If you and a couple of friends are good with a wrench, this is a job you can do yourself. Me and two good friends tackled a complete exhaust swap - Fabspeed headers, sports x-pipe, and exit pipes. We took our time and 9 hours later we were on the road. We used a lift and that helped immensely. None of us had ever worked on a Ferrari before. We were used to Corvettes and that helped with the tight spots. The red circled area in the last pic is where we found a crack. We welded it and repainted it and no issues afterwards.
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I installed Fabspeed headers and S-Line exhaust together. Above hours are correct and the labor.

4 hrs for Exhaust and 8 hrs for headers. I am so far away from being handy and do not want to touch anything to my Ferrari, trying to fix something ends up making it worse at the shop.

I let professionals to handle the situation. I always wish I were a good mechanic that I could work on my Ferrari. I get amazed some of our chat members do insanely crazy stuff with their cars. I admire them... I am just a driver... puhahaha....

 

The right side will be a little tricky on the install. Real tight especially on the forward bolts. I was told the left would be more difficult because of the air con but it went in a lot easier than the right. Have patience and take your time. There is great satisfaction in knowing you did it yourself.