360 spider won't rev when rolling

If you can get hold of a DSO, check the signals off the CKS and CPS to see if they're in spec.

 

The timing might go negative , like my 430 went -1.4 deg but yours was going -8 or 9 deg which means it is firing well after tdc . Seems a bit excessive. My -1.4 deg was only on its start then straight to 11 deg positive, dropping to 7.5 positive as it warmed up. How many deg is it running at normal tick over when warm.

You need a set of figures from another 360 to compare.

 

Best guess is that it has something to do with whoever worked on your car previously.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q-sponsored-algar-ferrari/506064-miss-cyl-6-cel-injector-diode.html

 

That got sorted out... It was the intake manifold gasket

 

Finally got a code

What is it?

Is it the cam variator selonoide or the cam sensor on top the valve cover ?
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No idea what it is but glad u r getting some indication- see what dean makes of it.

 

I will call him tonight Australia time so it's like 10am there ....

 

0910 am now

 

P1530

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I checked the resistance across the solenoide and its 30.25 ohms I think that's a bit high as it says it's ment to be max 20ohms

 

Have a look at your new thread regarding this, some new info

 

Also this link describes the information about the Timing Variator...

https://aldousvoice.com/2013/01/23/ferrari-360-phase-variator/

Its mounted on the front part of each Cylinder Head, the valve is controlled by the Motronic Ignition Computers and hydraulically controls the timing variantor on the Exhaust side of the Camshafts.

These pair of electronically controlled solenoid valves adjust the timing of the exhaust phase based on threshold values related to RPM and Engine Load tables stored in the firmware.

You can get access to them by removing the inspection panel and then you need to either make a custom tool or rent/buy/borrow the specialist service tool AV 3058.

When refitting the workshop manuals recommend using Arexons 4740 System 56 A38 sealant on the thread and then tighening the torque to precisely 43 Nm's with a torque wrench.

Also its mentions its important to carry out a self learning cycle after replacing the solenoid valves.

 

That tool cost me a bit over $900, still available through Ferrari.

 

I think I can do it with a modified spanner

 

just wondering my problem is with the engine backfiring via the air intake on hard throttle in neutral, the sd2 has the p1531 code and also shows that the knock sensor in active (on) when i am having the backfire problem, i can see that timing is being pulled out when i initially rev it (down low) and then is added back in after 3000rpm or so and the know sensor turn off, from what i read the varistor solinoide is activated at about 2920rpm so is the varistor solenoid doing anything prior to 2920rpm?

i am thinking that the varistor solinoide is not operating corectly causing the engine to not run perfect so the knock sensors pull timing out causing the car to backfire through the air intake.

what do you think?

 

Do what 24000rpm did and swap the solenoids over to see if the fault changes banks
Other idea, what happens if you disconnect the plugs to the solenoids so you dont have any cam adjustment- would it run smoothly

 

Mike has a great idea. I was troubleshooting a intermittent noise in a Maserati and I disconnected the variator plug to see if there was a change.

 

At 470 usd each, makes sense to diagnose if possible before replacing. That assumes u can reliably get a code. that appears to be the best way to test, as the code will follow the bad part. Disconnecting may not be as accurate as like that clutch switch, may just be compensating for some other fault (e.g. Variator itself).


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I know this sounds crazy, but in the sensor plugs for knock sensors and cam solinoids are exactly the same and are not marked. It is easy for an untrained tech to pull them off and mistakenly reconnect the solinoids to the wiring harness where the knock sensor belong and vise versa. What a pain that is to find, diagnose, and correct. It happened to me. The tech had all 6 connectors incorrectly installed. I had to disconnect the engine harness from the ECU, ring out each pin with a multimeter, then lable and reconnect the sensors to the harness. This usually only happens hen an engine comes out and those 6 connectors are not labeled. I was shocked when I found this issue more so because it's easily avoided if F had used a different style connector for knock & variator control. Sorry I didn't post this sooner it's so odd I didn't consider it.

 

Mine was running fine and they have never been disconnected but thanks for the heads up

 

Wow, now that's a pearl I haven't heard. I won't forget that. Thanks for sharing.


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Looks like the variator that attaches to the camshaft is £68 each and the solenoid is £231 each

As the solenoid controls a limited range of movement, if it was disconnected it would either have no adjustment of degree of cam angle or its full angle of adjustment, within its physical limits

 

Well I am currently making the tool to remove the solenoid

 

Post a few pics as this is all new to me, ta

 

Water pump housing in the way

Going to change the pump at the same time as the solenoid
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