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84 boxer full restoration

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Newman, Dec 13, 2014.

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  1. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    #276 Newman, Aug 30, 2016
    Thanks Pap, its awesome to drive a restored one. Everything is tight and clean.
     
  2. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    #277 Newman, Aug 30, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  3. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    #278 Newman, Aug 30, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  4. ///Mike

    ///Mike F1 Veteran

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    #279 ///Mike, Aug 31, 2016
    That brake pedal box and booster are beautiful and too pretty to hide. Needs to be on display somewhere.
     
  5. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    #280 Newman, Sep 14, 2016
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  6. boxerman

    boxerman F1 World Champ
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    #281 boxerman, Sep 14, 2016
    What psitons are those, something newer? have you upped the Cr ratio?
     
  7. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    #282 Newman, Sep 14, 2016
    Custom pistons with larger pins, asymmetrical and a higher ratio.
     
  8. PAP 348

    PAP 348 Ten Time F1 World Champ
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    #283 PAP 348, Sep 14, 2016
    Cheers mate, hopefully I get the opportunity to drive one one day. :D
     
  9. afterburner

    afterburner F1 Rookie
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    #284 afterburner, Sep 14, 2016
    May I know what the black paint on the lower portion of the piston is for? I have never seen that. Thanks for your enlightenment!
     
  10. 2dinos

    2dinos F1 Rookie

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    #285 2dinos, Sep 15, 2016
    Wow! This IS pretty!

    Speechless :)
     
  11. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    #286 turbo-joe, Sep 15, 2016
    this "black paint" is a special coating to reduce the friction
     
  12. PAP 348

    PAP 348 Ten Time F1 World Champ
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    #287 PAP 348, Sep 15, 2016
    Teflon coating I am sure. Newman will tell us for sure.

    Here a few different style of coatings on pistons these days.

    Piston Coatings - JE Pistons
     
  13. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    #288 Newman, Sep 21, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    12 pistons in and heads ready.

    Recording stud sizes, thread depth in casting and exposed thread length is critical and there are so many studs that are close in length that if not recorded you're screwed. Note two studs of the same length but very different where it counts.
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  14. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    #289 Newman, Sep 21, 2016
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  15. samsaprunoff

    samsaprunoff F1 Rookie
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    #290 samsaprunoff, Sep 21, 2016
    Indeed, removing, cataloging, and reinstalling takes a fair amount of time... I only did a portion of the studs on my BB's EO service and I have a whole new appreciation for the effort and attention to detail (studs, fasteners, washers, etc) this all takes...

    Cheers.

    Sam
     
  16. Dave rocks

    Dave rocks F1 World Champ
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    #291 Dave rocks, Sep 22, 2016
    Hey Paul, were the Boxer studs Yellow Zinc originally? I ask because on my 355, they are Cadmium (silver) I believe.

    Also, may I ask what method you are using to clean up the aluminum cylinder heads? I've considered soda blasting but am hearing some not so good things.....
     
  17. mikael82

    mikael82 Formula Junior

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    #292 mikael82, Sep 22, 2016
    when you open hexnut after factory, like gearbox side covers, you can see original yellow plating under.
     
  18. jjeffries

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    #293 jjeffries, Sep 22, 2016
    Paul, here's a stupid question: do you remove all those studs via simple double-nut process or something more fancy like a Snap-On collet tool? Best, John in CT.
     
  19. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    #294 Newman, Sep 23, 2016
    The newer stuff is clear cad like on the 512M and TR engines with some yellow zinc as well. And as mentioned above when you remove a stud you can see the portion that was in the threaded hole still retains its original finish in most cases. Some of it is also just common sense when you cant identify what it was. I did find that some studs are a different colour that are to be in a specific location such as some bellhousing studs where the locating dowels are. Most likely for the assembly line person's benefit.
     
  20. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    #295 Newman, Sep 23, 2016
    Not stupid at all, I have a collet with a variety of inserts for the different sizes but the odd time I do have to double nut if access is an issue.
     
  21. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    #296 Newman, Sep 23, 2016
    Depends on the casting. Don't blast the diecast parts that for sure! The boxer stuff is sand cast which you can blast but I never use soda. Most times Ill use a chemical cleaner and a brush.
     
  22. Dave rocks

    Dave rocks F1 World Champ
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    #297 Dave rocks, Sep 23, 2016
    On my 355, the color can be seen and determined without removing the studs as they are not that bad.

    I was recently tip off to a plater that might be able to do some of the less common stuff so I need to give them a call.
     
  23. Dave rocks

    Dave rocks F1 World Champ
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    #298 Dave rocks, Sep 23, 2016
    Thanks. I've had great success with glass beads on sand cast and die cast parts. Low air pressure and not staying at any spot long works very well. But these are all parts that can be easily cleaned to remove 100% of the media. See my thread in the 355 section - excellent results.
     
  24. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    #299 Newman, Sep 23, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  25. dwhite

    dwhite F1 Rookie

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    #300 dwhite, Sep 23, 2016
    Paul what tool do you use to torque the 20mm nuts in the valley cyl 7-12 side. I had 2 which I needed to take off and retorque, what a pain to get 90ft lbs. Engine looking like it's ready for the red carpet.
     
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