Removing 308 instrument panel

Hi , I am removing the instrument panel to replace the instrument lights with LEDs.

I am following the write up by Antonio Regidor , which looks like an excellent guide.

I have removed the steering wheel and persuaded the four indicator lights to come out in order to reach the screws behind them that hold the panel in .

Question - as the 4 lights only seem to have a limited amount of free cable , do I have to disconnect them before trying to remove the panel ? Otherwise it looks like the panel will not be very accessible if it is restrained by the light cables.

TIA

 

Yes Tia - remove the lights to get the panel out. When putting the panel back I put a piece of string on each socket and thread through the panel holes so I can pull the light connectors back out.
Art

 

The wires are actually connected to the instruments on the panel itself. There is enough cable length between the instruments and where it goes into the top of the dash to pull the instrument panel out and disconnect it.

Remove the screws and the whole panel will slide out. If the screws fall down behind the panel you can retrieve them when you get the panel out.

The best way to get the screws back in, is to tape them to the screw driver used to install them until you get them started. Its a hassle if you drop the last one and have to take it apart again to retrieve it. A couple of the screws were slotted not phillips and I replaced them with phillips head ones to make them easier to reinstall.

All of this will make more sense once you pull out the panel.

There are connectors to allow you to take the whole panel to a bench to do the upgrade.

 

I would also add if you paint the tabs yellow it makes it easier to find the holes for the screws.

 

You can also use screw holding screwdrivers to avoid dropping the screws when putting it back. They are very useful tools.

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HI

Do you have the link to the panel removal? I can't seem to find it?

Thanks

 

this !

no need to disconnect them (if you do, mark them for later ...)

I even changed all my gauges without disconnecting those lights

.
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Well , a quick update . Someone had been in there before and wrapped tape around 2 of the bulb holders which made them a tight fit to remove . Managed to wiggle them out but got sore fingers . I think RHD cars are wired a bit different so you don't get a lot of clearance on the panel when you remove it .
Managed to drop all 4 screws into the front , retrieved 3 of them , on the hunt for the last one but it will be under the wiring loom . Will use a magnet probe .
I started this because the panel lights were so dim.
Turns out that they are not coming on at all now I can see close up .

So will do some more digging tomorrow . No point in putting new and brighter LEDs in until have power to the bulb holder .

Question - assume if you pull a bulb holder out from its instrument it will not work unless it is grounded ? Only one wire goes to bulb holder so assume that should be live.

 

Yes.

I spent about 2 weekends looking for a screw that fell and disappeared into the wiring rat's nest in there.

 

Ok , made some progress today , managed to recover the missing screw , and have glued back on one of the fixing brackets that broke off as I struggled to remove panel , they appear to be araldited to the inside surface of the instrument panel.

I fitted 2 XLEDs in speedo , type 74-WHP from superbrightleds.com

They were easy .

I fitted 2 X LEDs in tacho , type BA9S-WHP from superbrightleds.com

They were not so easy as they were slightly too fat for the housing tube . Not by much say 1mm on the diameter , so I filed them down till they fit , you have to remove metal from a ring band and plastic from the bulb cap circumference . When you get down to same size or just below same size as the push-in bulb holder you are there. NB do not twist the assembly as you push it back in otherwise the bulb parts company with the bulb holder and remains stuck in the housing tube.

Finally short circuited the panel lighting rheostat with a connecting loop. Tried testing the rheostat to measure the resistance but failed to make sense of the readings . It looked fine !

 

URL to screwdriver...
Phillips Screw Holding Screwdriver | SoftFinish | #1,#2,#3 | Buy Individually | Wiha Tools USA

From some brief reading, the "phillips screwdriver #2" is the correct tool?

 

The one I bought for the philips screws for my dash was a PH1x125. It was a tight fit around the screw head. Not sure if the PH2 sleeve would be too big.

The lower screws (if I remember well) were large slotted screws for which I used this:

https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-40010-Magnetizer-or-Demagnetizer/dp/B00018AONE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476726090&sr=8-1&keywords=wiha+magnetizer

 

Cheaper;
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