My passenger side door has always bee harder to shut than the drivers door. When I installed new door rubber it became worse. The problem is that the inner surface of the window when up comes very close to the B pillow. Its probably a quarter in closer than the drivers window. As a consequence its pushing hard on the door rubber. Ah! says I, it just needs adjustment. So I have tried various methods to adjust it. I have shimmed out the lower bolt holding the window frame to the body and moved the upper bolt as much as possible. Probably gained a 1/16 of an inch additional separation. Any other methods to move the window farther away from the B Pillar when closed? Image Unavailable, Please Login
In Italy at the moment (Jet Lag issues) read your post 4 times trying to understand.. First, you need to pull the (lower) window Channel adjustment inward toward the interior not shim it outward. This action will kick the top of the Door Glass outward at the top of the Window travel. ( teeter totter effect). Family owned a Body Shop.
Have someone with experience take a look at this because the next step is to roll the door on the hinges slightly to get the correct fitting and I don't think that is necessary inless this Door has been off / hit at some point. No shimming should be necessary, just adjustment in the window channel mounting points. Will probably include adjustment on the front window channel mounting as well. Stating the obvious .. don't just adjust and slam the door or you could be buying a new Door Glass also.
The door gaps are great. Hard to imagine it needs alignment. Its never been hit (know the cars history). Guess I will try to be careful as I can be closing the door.
Door gaps have nothing to do with rolling the door outward. I'm betting your just not getting the adjustment correct.
New rubber needs time to compress a bit for correct fit. I had the same issue but after a few months all fit perfectly.
Which model? I have the same issue on my 89 328 which I have also tried to correct by shimming there but limited success. But I have come across other late 328s with the same "feature". I think they were not very accurate from new.
OP said it didn't shut properly with the old rubber so highly doubtful the new rubber will act differently. I say this reluctantly but it may be possible for the shop to adjust the pinch weld where the rubber strip attaches but would again suggest you take this to an experienced body shop, Pay the $120 for the hour and a half it takes to set this up properly before anyone starts beating on a pinch weld.
Actually that's what I did as a last resort. Took the rubber off the "pinch weld" on the B pillar. Taped it so I would not mar the paint and used a large crescent wrench to gently bend the metal inward. Did help but still not as good as the drivers side.
