308 GT4 Suspension Rebuild

Hi,

I'm planning to rebuild the suspension on my '74 GT4 over the winter and replace all of the bushes etc. I'm also intending to replace all of the nuts, bolts, collars etc. and also get the various parts repainted or replated as necessary.

The problem is that I have no idea what parts I need. I've had a look on the Suoerformance website, but it is rather confusing.

Does anyone have a list of all the parts I'm going to need please? I want to use standard rubber bushes and subject to what I find, I may also replace the bearings.

Paul

 

Start with the parts diagrams for the suspension. You can find them at https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk

For example, below: https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/PagesExternal/ViewExploded.aspx?PageID=693

What you need to replace will depend on the condition of the bits you take off. A good starting point is all bushes, possibly ball joints and possibly shocks.
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Paul
If you need any advice give me a shout I am not far from you and have rebuilt these suspensions many times. You will need new wishbone bushes as a starter along with anti roll ones, Superformance do a kit. Remember wishbone ones are welded in so will need grinding weld off then press out and re weld. This can be tricky, shocks are straight forward. Powder coating all parts should cost around £100-200 depending where you go.

 

Thank you both, that is really helpful information.

The standard setup for the front suspension is with 30' of positive camber, but I recall reading or hearing somewhere that they benefit from having some negative camber, does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Paul

 

Negative camber both front and back with a little extra castor on the front. Goes around corners on rails, though rear tyres do wear more on inner edges as I was running large amount of negative previously. I set the car up as per the guides allowed in the FOC race series. Now dropped back a little on rear. Can't remember what setting have currently would need to measure again.

 

Hi Paul

Would certainly second Gav's advice on the camber and castor - gives a really good handling set-up. You have good local help!

David

 

I finally got started on dismantling the rear suspension at the weekend and apart from the bushes and everything being covered in a thick layer of accumulated oil and dirt, it all appears to be in good order.

I want to get the suspension arms repainted, but I know the bushes need spot welding in place. What is the accepted best practice? I'm assuming that I should remove the old bushes, strip and clean the arms and then reinstall the new bushes before repainting.

Is there somewhere that can refurbish the Koni shock absorbers and get them looking like new again?

With regard to the camber and caster, do you have any numbers?

Thanks,
Paul

 

Yes, I would replace the bushes, weld them then mask the new bushes and paint, as you describe.

If you are in the US, Koni US will refurbish them for $140 per shock plus parts.

 

I ended up sticking my Koni's in the loft and fitting new adjustable shocks - which worked out cheaper than refurbishing the Koni's. (They are also lighter and funnily enough, adjustable)

Before I made this decision, I spoke to Shaun Pickering and IIRC it was over £100 a shock to refurbish them - but then you need to add in new bushes etc. which pushed the price up a bit. Shaun was good to talk to and would have got mine had I gone down that path.

Damper Workshops and Serivice Centres


Check Maserati Source on Ebay for the bushes etc. Although they ship from the states, I still found them cheaper than anyone in the UK.

 

Does more caster help with the steering wheel unwinding exiting corners ? That's what the car needs. Thx

 

More caster certainly increases self-C entering of the steering, but increases the steering effort required.

Many thanks again for all of the responses. I've done a few small jobs on the car since I've had it and I've generally enjoyed working on it and it helps that it is in pretty good shape, but it is really great having the combined experiences and skills of the forum's members to call upon when needed.

Very much appreciated.

Thanks,
Paul

 

Glad your enjoying working and learning about these great little cars. Camber and castor setting for the race cars are set out in the FOC race guîdlines, as mine is in it's carcoon for the winter I don't have current setting and would need to measure them. Suggest setting up somwhere in the middle of the guidelines and go from there. They are easy to adjust with the large washer/spacers on the wishbone mounts

 

I completely rebuilt the suspension on my 75 GT4. I personally went with the Energy bushings instead of welding back in the original ones. They have been great. I powder coated all the a-arms, sway bars, re-plated all the bolts, rebuild and repainted the Konis and replaced every bushing. Rides better than new. Alignment is set at stock settings. The one mistake I made was in not sending my shocks directly to Koni. I used an authorized rebuilder and they wouldn't give them back to me unless I paid them double the quoted price. Cost me over $2k to get my original shocks back. I would avoid Performance Shock Inc in Sonoma, CA.
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That looks a lovely spread of shiny parts. Do you have any pictures of the rebuilt suspension?
Sorry to hear about the Koni rebuild problem. That is outrageous behaviour.
Do you have any details on the Energy bushes?

Thank you,
Paul

 

All finished:
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Another one:
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Dave Feinberg (Ferrari of Bedford) will be an invaluable resource for this project. He has all the hardware and advice you will need. Be sure you have budget for the pin bushings.. that and the shocks are send out items (Feinberg for the pin bushings, koni for shocks).
Look for a guy called "Maserati Source" on ebay. He has some great sales from time to time on some of these bits (front ball joints, steering joints).
My sway bar bushings from Superformance were too small and fell out under use. Had to order correct from Bedford. (I like Superformance and buy all sorts of stuff from them).

I painted mine with POR15 and a top coat of chassis black paint.

Suspension is awesome now.

 

Hi John,

Thank you for the suggestions, however, did you read my last post "All finished"?

I finished the rebuild today. I got most of the parts from Superformance, apart from the CV joints, which came from a guy in Germany and we're much cheaper than I could find anywhere else. The seem nice quality and came a ps a complete kit, including boots, collars and grease.

I'm pretty please with how it tuned out, so I'll do the front suspension next winter.

Paul

 

Looks great. Sorry I thought that was someone else showing there completed work.

 

Good work!

 

Thank you. It was my first Ferrari overhaul and for the most part, I've enjoyed it and I didn't uncover any horrors while I was in there, which is always a concern with a recent acquisition.

I changed my mind every day for about a month over the bushes and whether to go original or Energy. In the end I went with original style bushes from Superformance.
I had all of the bolts re-plated, but all of the nuts and washers are new. The CV joint bolts are new as are the outrageously expensive nuts. The nuts alone were over £120.
Apart from a couple of minor errors, which were quickly rectified, Superformance have been excellent with ordered parts generally turning up the next day. Highly recommended.
I stripped and rebuilt the hubs and had to split one of the special hub nuts because it was seized, which also ruined the thick washer underneath it. Superformance had the nuts in stock, but not the washers, so they sourced them elsewhere and had them shipped direct to me at no extra cost.

I've also drained the gearbox and refilled it with Redline oil, which seems to be the product of choice by those in the know.

I'll let you know how it feels when I drive it later today.

Paul

 

I have a problem.

Fitted the wheels, dropped it to the floor and refilled with oil. Spun the motor over to get the old around and then fired it up.

What a racket! The exhaust was badly blowing from somewhere.

Jacked it up again and had a good look around and discovered that one of the heat shield mounting mounting bosses on the front manifold had completely broken away, leaving a gaping hole. It now looks like I'm going to have to remove the manifold to get it fixed, which by all accounts is a mare of a job to do.

Feeling a bit pissed off at the moment.

 

Paul, the manifolds aren't a terrible job, it's just all the other jobs that need to be done whilst you are in there!
You should be able to lash something up to postpone the work until next winter.
Tin cans, jubilee clips and a few Holts products will get you there.


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That's what I was thinking Andy. I've already taken the RH fuel tank out and most of the hardware for the A/C compressor, so I think I can now get in there to lash something up to tide me over.
We're booked on a Euro Classics tour next weekend, so I need to do something before then.

Paul

 

It's all back together and I've been out for a short test drive and it feels terrific. The exhaust repair seems to be working, at least for the time being and the rear suspension feels taught and rattle free, so I'm really please with the outcome.
I'll do the front suspension next winter and if it turns out anything like the rear has done, I'll be delighted.
It already drove beautifully, but it's now on another level.
I've got a brand new Jaguar F-Type, which is lauded for its handling prowess, but honestly, I think the Dino is genuinely better. Despite the huge rubber on the Jag compared to the Dino, the Dino turns in better and holds a more consistent line through the corners. It also feels better balanced. Modern cars are so reliant on electronics to maintain grip and control, the designers seem to have forgotten how to design genuinely good suspension.

Paul