soft top issue | FerrariChat

soft top issue

Discussion in '348/355' started by emac, Oct 26, 2016.

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  1. emac

    emac Formula Junior
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    Sep 14, 2014
    851
    upstate SC
    Full Name:
    ernest
    Top goes down fine. When I start to go up, my driver side fork just misses engaging the ram. The passenger side engages fine. If I put a little pressure on the fork it will engage and work fine. I cant find any adjustment for this.

    I read the sticky on soft top problems and read that loosening the mounting bolts can help this issue. It said there were 4 bolts holding the top mechanism to the body. The only bolts I see are three per side. I loosened the driver side mount and moved it to a couple of different positions but it didnt seem to help. I thought about loosening both sides, but I figured I would ask if anyone else has solved this issue.

    I know that wasnt the best explanation, especially without pictures.

    Any advice on getting the fork to engage the ram better?

    Thanks.
     
  2. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Sep 9, 2010
    23,842
    WI
    Been chasing the same issue on my car. Passenger side on mine.

    I have all kinds of theories on the cause.

    I have adjust damn near everything to get it re-aligned. I am close, but not quite there.
     
  3. emac

    emac Formula Junior
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    Sep 14, 2014
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    ernest
    I went back out last night and played with it some more.....the car that is! I removed the top two mounting bolts. I put a large screwdriver in the assembly and rotated the assembly counterclockwise as much as possible. While holding the position, I ran the top up and down. It worked. So, my plan is to open up the mounting holes some more to allow more adjustment. I think that will make it work. I will let you know. I just think there is some other issue that is causing this, I just can't seem to figure it out. It is one crazy system to watch......and I watched it about 100 times last night!
     
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  4. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    Nov 29, 2001
    13,628
    San Carlos, CA
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    Mitchell Le
    I would like to see a picture of what assembly you are rotating and where the screw driver fits.
     
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  5. emac

    emac Formula Junior
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    Sep 14, 2014
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    ernest
    I will take a couple of pictures tonight or Friday depending on when I get some time to work on it again.

    I will try to explain...
    There are three 13mm bolts that hold the ram assembly to the body, one is between the fork and the body, the other two are hidden behind the carpet and covers. Loosen all three of them, and rotate the assembly. This will move the round catch and hopefully it will line up better. There is a threaded hole on the front of the assembly and that is where I put the screwdriver. You can rotate it by hand with the top almost all the way down. The screwdriver isn't needed, I just used it because it I had to rotate mine more than the screw holes allowed. Hth.
     
  6. emac

    emac Formula Junior
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    #6 emac, Oct 27, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Here are two pictures. You can see how the bolt hole is large to allow for adjustment of the assembly. Two other bolts on the backside. You really dont need a screwdriver to move it. I found it easier to use a screwdriver for holding it in place when tightening. I am going to mess with it some more tomorrow.

    I replaced my recirculation motor tonight and put the liner back together. I never knew it didnt work until I read about them in the sticky thread! My internal gears were toast.
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  7. emac

    emac Formula Junior
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    Sep 14, 2014
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    It seems to be all fixed. Two things that made a difference.

    One, rotating the ram mechanism as far back as possible shown in the picture in the previous post.

    Two, there are three allen bolts that hold the buttress part of the top to the body. I loosened them up and pulled that section as far forward as possible, then retightened the allen bolts. The holes are slotted and give you an inch or so play. That seemed to raise the top a little and rotated the fork closer to the catch.

    One other note. In the first picture (previous post) in between the two rear mounting bolts (you cant see them) there is a small allen bolt that seems to adjust the angle that the plate mounts to the body. That may help in certain issues.

    I removed the pump cover to check the fluid. If you knock the fuse out of the pump while working on the top, it will stop working. If that happens you may spend a few minutes panicking as to why the system all of a sudden stopped working!
     
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  8. Enzojr

    Enzojr F1 World Champ

    Dec 12, 2013
    14,001
    West of PDX
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    Tomy
    That is awesome that you got it to work ......properly.
    A big HI 5 is in order ;)
    I ended up taking mine to my Indy mechanic, but it does work now.
    So multiply number of hours spent on it by say ...... $130 an hour and you saved ?
     
  9. emac

    emac Formula Junior
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    Thanks for the hi5. Four hours is $520. Next Fcar is going to be a fixed roof model.
     
  10. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    Would you post some more pictures of those holes and allen bolts locations? I cannot see it in my head...
     
  11. emac

    emac Formula Junior
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    #11 emac, Oct 28, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Attached a diagram:

    Part #33 is one of 3 allen bolts that hold the buttress part of the frame to the body. You can see in the diagram that the frame is slotted for adjustment. Pulling mine forward had the effect of raising the top which rotated the fork towards the catch. I used a short ratchet to get to them. Having the top almost closed helped access.

    Part #37 is one of three bolts that hold the frame to the body in the area of the main cylinder. You can see three bolt holes in the photo. In between two of those holes is part #47.

    #47 is an allen adjustment bolt. I assume it is used to adjust the angle of the mounting flange. You have to remove most of the trim and pull back the carpet and contort yourself with a flashlight to get a view of it.

    Once you dig in it should make better sense.

    If you are having the latching issue. I would try adjusting #33 part first. If that doesn't do it then loosen #37 bolts and move it around. Of course full fluid and well lubed joints are a must.

    HTH
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  12. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Sep 9, 2010
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    I have been in & out of that area 5 times now. I swear it makes no difference on alignment.

    The only thing that made a difference for me was a full and complete bleed of the hydraulic lines and system.

    Perhaps I'll revisit the alignment when I replace my top this winter.

    Thanks for posting your progress and details. Always helpful.
     
  13. emac

    emac Formula Junior
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    Watson,
    Have you adjusted any of those areas? How far off is your fork from engaging? Mine would catch on the first arm of the fork, so it was just barely out of sync. When I loosened everything up, especially #37 bolts, I could make the fork miss by a lot by rotating the part clockwise/forward. By pushing it back/counterclockwise it got real close to working. So, I opened up one of the holes a little to get it to rotate a little more. That along with #33 got it working.

    I read a couple of posts on replacing the top, that looks like a tough job.
     
  14. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Sep 9, 2010
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    A gabizlion times :)

    All works on warm days.

    Cold out? (when it matters) it misses by a c*nt hair :)
     
  15. emac

    emac Formula Junior
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    hmmmm....it did get warm today? Please post if you ever figure it out. It is one crazy system and if it gives me much more trouble I will go manual.
     
  16. vvassallo

    vvassallo F1 Veteran

    Aug 4, 2006
    8,329
    Palos Verdes
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    Vince V
    Hey, while we're on the subject of convertible tops, have any of you refurbished the material lately? Last week, Jeff and I did my wife's BMW 3 series and his 348 Spider tops. We used the BMW water repellent per directions. It is available at any BMW dealership parts department. It used to be called the re-impregnator or conditioner. They sell a cleaner, but you don't need this.

    We dusted off the tops and used a lint roller to get hair off. Then we used mild soapy water - no suds - to clean the tops IN THE SHADE. Before applying the product, we used the lint rollers again to make sure there was no cat hair or other crap on the fabric.

    Next, we mixed the product per directions with warm water 3:1 in a clean bucket. IN THE SHADE we used a small sponge to apply the product to the fabric top. Make sure you do not cause it to run down your finish, or if you do, use a microfiber towel and get it off fast. If the product dries on the paint it is a pain to remove. This is why you apply it IN THE SHADE.

    When the top is completely dampened with the product, let it dry in the sun. We used patio umbrellas to shade the tops during application and then closed them for the drying stage. As the top is drying, check for your coverage and dab additional product on where necessary.

    The stuff dries pretty quickly and the result is a top that looks almost brand new, plus it will shed water like a duck for years. We did Jeff's garage queen :) three years ago and his last application was still pretty water resistant, requiring us to scrub the new product into the fabric a bit. By contrast, my wife's car spends a lot of time in the sun and took it more quickly.
     
  17. vracer

    vracer Formula 3

    Jun 23, 2014
    1,098
    NorCal
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    Richard
    My blue top has some areas that are partially worn, and they are now a lighter shade of blue, but there is no water leakage. What is your guess about color rejuvenation?
    Thanks,
    Richard
     
  18. vvassallo

    vvassallo F1 Veteran

    Aug 4, 2006
    8,329
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    Vince V
    Color is a tricky thing. If it is sun faded, the BMW product might help. Otherwise, the bad news is new top time. You might try the product and see. What could it hurt?
     

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