This just happened. Diagnosis?

Thanks. I remain positive. Made progress today on the electrical issues.

 

ixlr8 - thanks for the commiseration.
Today was yet another eye opener with the 308. The first discovery was a disconnected wire beneath the air filter housing (I believe this to be the wire from the ECU to the oxygen sensor but need to verify. The big discovery today was with the speedometer/odometer. I needed to check wiring behind the instruments. The speedo/odometer basically fell out. It had been out before. Broken and glued. Now why would someone take out the speedo/odometer????
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Jdbuddya-Palo Alto did a stellar job on a friend's 1967 911. Those guys are the best. I was able to do a better repair job on the plastic housing than the idiots before me. Several applications of epoxy and then shaping with a Dremel tool abrasive wheel did the trick.
I believe the plastic that the body of the instrument is made of has gotten brittle with age and even deformed slightly. That said I will revisit this issue when I get the rest of the issues sorted out.

Motob-was it the voltage regulator chip that's marked "Malasia" the giveaway? I was also surprised by how small the diodes were on the board. I haven't seen a Bosch regulator for a 308 but know that the one on my 87 911 is much heftier. As soon as the car is running I'll see what the guys installed on mine.
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johnk... assuming a 308 haas a good voltage regulator what could be the conditions that occur in a car to cause it to fail? Thanks...

 

The photo is of the connector and black wire that went to the cigar/cigarette lighter. The insulation on the black wire melted all the way up to the harness connector under the center console. It is bare in one section and melted to adjacent wires in the harness.

I placed an order with Ricambi today and asked about the lighter. Theirs was an immediate response that the lighter and wiring is an ongoing issue with the 308 and other models. Basically the wire gauge is insufficient for the current draw resulting overheating and collateral damage occur. I mention this because other 308 owners may have a similar condition in their vehicle—an electrical failure waiting to happen...

All instruments are back on line in the car with the exception of the burned out clock—its place on the console is now occupied by a VDO voltmeter wired to an accessory position on the fuse block and happily indicating system voltage.

The only thing to sort is why the directionals, emergency flashers, some side marker lights, and instrument lights do not work. (relay, flasher switch?)

p.s. in my years of rebuilding vintage tube guitar amplifiers I have found (and it is in fact a community consensus) that components like capacitors made in the U.S., France, and Germany are far superior to Asian varieties. But the application of sound production is totally different from that of voltage regulation so...)
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Nah, the V1 wouldn't pull that kind of current. It probably happened when someone used the lighter at some point, but the bare wire in the console may have been a factor.
BTW Valentine fixed the V1 for FREE, not even a shipping charge!

New switch ordered from Ricambi and will test bulbs to see if any blew under high voltage. I had replaced all bulbs a few weeks prior to the incident.

 

12 bulbs blown from the run-away voltage regulator fiasco—3 exploded like grenades, one was cracked and discolored, the other 8 just burned out. These were all new 3 weeks ago. I expect instrument and some warning lights may be out as well.

Of note is that all newer bulbs (Sylvania) are of a slightly higher wattage than factory original/spec.Individually this may not matter but collectively it may be a different story as an additional drain on the system. I cannot find 8 or 16 amp fuses for new fuse blocks—lesser values substituted (not what I wanted to do).

I want to reduce the loads on the alternator and wiring system in the car. Lower consumption bulbs (LEDs—which may prove to be problematic because the system looks for a certain resistance) are a potential option. Loads such as headlights and radiator fans may be another place to save power by installing more efficient units. Wondering if any of you have addressed this.

Finally the $150 hazard switch that many of us seem to have a problem with could be replaced by a simpler switch connected to a relay. The switch would still have the vintage Ferrari look but be a single pole type and not as susceptible to failure as a more complex component is.

 

This is pretty cool. The reduction of current running through the wiring and reduction of load on the alternator must be significant. I haven't done the numbers yet but just hitting the brakes with conventional bulbs pulls 100 watts. With the Sylvania LEDs it's down to 20 watts.

Solid state repeater? Not familiar with that...

 

Correction. The LEDs for the brake lights only consume .5 watts not 5 watts. Hard to believe but great for the car.

 

dflett - thanks for the clarification. I bought one of those LED flashers, which delivered today, on Amazon for next to nothing. Will test it in the car in the next couple of days.