I think it would be easy to cut new snap ring grooves, machine a spacer if needed-- both designs use the 6203 bearing. I checked my liner protrusion height but couldn't find where I've put my feeler gauges with the ultra-thin blades. My 0.03mm blade would not go under so I checked them all using a bright light behind the straight edge. The gap looked the same on all cylinders and I could measure the liners adjacent to each other with a dial gauge and they were all level so I'm sure I'm good. The Elring head gaskets have quite thick crush rings so I am not worried about cylinder sealing. Image Unavailable, Please Login
On the 246 forum someone seemed to be having an issue with Elring head gaskets. Not sure if this applies to 308 though.
I think you would also need to machine off the amount that you move the bearings out on the external cam drive gears so the belts are all still aligned correctly as well.
Patrick, I had seen a few other discussions about the Elring gaskets and just looked at the weeping Danish 246 thread. I'd put some high temp sealant around the studs and the water passages. I dropped my body at the two body/paint gents in the forest. I emphasized that I will lose money on the car if I sell it-- which may well be true if prices continue to slide :-( I tried the red and silver air injector plugs and will stick with the silver even if the red ones do look quite cool. I have a couple of extra sets left so send me a pm if you want a set. US$60 incl. post. Paypal to derekrwhite at yahoo. c0m. Trip to Ogdensburg delayed due to a visa issue. Might be a whole lot harder tomorrow because I once dated a Mexican lady. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Another tip from the department of silly walks. One of the aluminium plugs at the back of the block (the highest one), is not into an oil gallery (as I thought) but a core plug held in by fossilized thread lock. I didn't notice the obvious pale biscuit-colored thread lock (which is obvious around the core plugs in the valley) until after I had nicely rounded out the hex socket. I tried to persuade it to turn with a chisel but it is very soft and I just managed to progressively shave off the top. Eventually drilled through it all the way across the middle (careful to not touch the threads in the block) and then a few taps towards the center of the plug pulled it away from the thread lock and I could unscrew it. The picture shows my finger coming through from the No 5 water jacket. Leave the core plugs in! I wanted all the oil gallery plugs out to properly clean the oil system. It turns out my machinist has the guide liner set and will line the 16 guides for 160 Canadian pesos. Joking aside, the CA$ is likely to rise against the USD given the state of uncertainty. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sorry, coming into this late. In regard to the front drive bearing, I decided to purchase directly from Maranello Concessionaires, appointed by Ferrari Classiche. The bearing shown is indeed a C4 designation. Maranello is quite aware of the prolific forgery of bearings and sources them appropriately! Great thread ! Godspeed! Dave Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dave, since you are about to do this, does it look like you could switch the bearing to the front (use a sealed bearing) and put the seal behind? I have only seen the later design but am guessing the earlier setup could be easily changed by machining new snap ring grooves and perhaps a small spacer? I would think pushing the bearing outwards is a good idea or Ferrari would not have changed it.
Interesting. The engine I am doing had right at 112 k miles on it with the original belt drive bearings. Well maintained almost daily driver! This set up uses a thin conical washer on the interior side of the bearing outer race, just under the inner circlip. Both inner and outer bearings were of the open type fed by non pressurized oil passages fed by splash oil. I did chamfer the original oil feed hole on the inside of the cover to provide smoother entrance path for the splash oil. At this point I am not going to change to a sealed or shielded bearing. Using proper replacements, enhancing oil flow to bearings. Not totally convinced a sealed /shielded bearing with even Klueber grease is an improvement. The shields/seals will harden when exposed to hot oil, may shrink, allowing ingress of oil, contaminating orig installed grease. Porsche 996 guys have a bearing issue (huge) on their Intermediate Shaft Bearing, which when failure occurs, is catastrophic. Newly designed fixes which work seem to incorporate additional flow.............. Another topic. What I will do is use a PARKER Quick sleeve on the belt drive pulleys where a wear groove has developed from the hardened seal. These thin sleeves are chrome plated stainless and should work well with the double lip seal. If you provide dims for the wider bearing you are interested in , I will look at the housing to see if it will accommodate with machining. Will be posting some interesting findings regarding oil pump bronze bushings and bore/piston of oil press relief. Godspeed! Dave
112k miles and the bearings still good is more than acceptable. Maybe I should go retro The 6203 bearing is good for about 9.6-9.9kN dynamic load which is about 6-8 times the actual load and my quick calculation gives a life of about 170k km. Given that they seem to fail far sooner suggests the lubricant, not the load.
I've had a break from the engine as I'm busy with other work and haven't had a chance to pop down to Ogdensburg to get the high temp sealant. My fat envelope of viton liner o-rings arrived so if anyone needs some let me know ($14 for 8 instead of 14 for 1!) I also got my new front side indicator lights from Superformance (very quick as usual.) Can someone measure the position of the euro front side light? Height above the belt-line and horizontal distance to the wheel arch. My metal wizard Dirk has closed off the holes for the back indicators. I couldn't find a Chinese supplier to do the thicker hard chroming of the valve stems and I've heard from a couple of sources that the thinner flash chroming can flake off so I'll probably go with nitriding (Tufftriding) the valves. The 21-4N is already a lot better than what was used and the guides are more of a problem so I'll get some better bronze liners put into my guides. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Can someone with the small euro side lights please give me these measurements? Height of light center from top of belt line and from light center to edge of wheel opening. Thanks! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Weld thrice, measure twice, drill once. I have to close up the three old holes for the old side lights.
vertical dimension pretty close to my measurement, but horizontal? Just double checked on my Euro car and say no. Or the tolarences were such big back in those days. Best Regards Martin
Martin, 135mm is 5.31 inches which is close enought for me to 5.5 the 4.5 is diagonally from the corner.
Thanks Gents! Based on the attention to detail I've seen on the rest of my car body, I'd say this variation is well within the tolerance of the Scaglietti coachbuilders. The Mopar guys who are doing my body and paint work commented yesterday that "it's built like a kit car!"
['The Mopar guys who are doing my body and paint work commented yesterday that "it's built like a kit car!" ] They ought to know.
Are those O rings the correct section diameter? They look way too thick. Also V8 Ferrari motors used more than one section diameter so they are not all the same. Also if you are going to switch materials be absolutely sure to use the same material or same durometer rating because their ability to squish into place in their compressed state will have not only head gasket sealing implications but also a liner distortion effect.
Brian, if you look at how the old original ones are deformed and squeezed out of the triangular cavity, you'll see that there was a bit of extra cross section in the original o-rings. I compared my new ones to some o-rings a friend had from another vendor, his were 1.80mm thick and mine are 1.83mm. both were a very slight stretch to go around the 87mm OD of the sleeve. When I get around to picking up the high temp sealant, I'll seal the tops of the sleeves and torque down the heads with the old head gaskets for a couple of days to let the sealant cure, then pressurize the water jackets and look for soapy bubbles. I'll then pull the heads and check the liner protrusion again before boring the liners with my lovely torque plate.
No reason to apply sealant to the tops of the sleeves, that is not a sealing area. Don't reinvent the wheel. 1.80 or so is the correct size. It looks bigger in the photo. I can't imagine ever paying that much. I have a whole bag of the OE seals and don't think I have that much in all of them.
