F1 Creep in 1st ok??

You need to have it adjusted. Aside from wearing the clutch and heating up the flywheel the entire time you're stopped in first, it is also not fully disengaging for shifts.

 

correct - will only lead to premature wear or clutch plates and doesnt sound like it is properly disengaging between shifts !

 

i would get it adjusted asap cuz its wearing the clutch as others have stated

 

some notes

if the clutch is cold when you adjust the PIS, it is possible that you get the following result:

not creeping on 1st gear and seems perfect, then drive the car for a while it creeps.

 

I spent countless hours with the PIS setting on my '03 360 after changing the clutch. Hot, cold etc. I fully understand exactly where you're at, and I was tempted to leave my setting alone after getting it to exactly what you're experiencing. My goal was that magical setting that engages the clutch immediately and no flare up past 1,500. My thought being that as the clutch beds in, the creep would works itself out. My OCD kept haunting me - and it ultimately wasn't about the clutch parts - but the gearbox. Synchros, etc.

I increased the setting 0.1MM and experience no increase in initial engagement, but did result in a 2-300 rpm increase in rpm to full engagement. There is never creep and I can modulate that out with throttle and the clutch always engages within a car length or less. It's important to keep in mind that the car idles at ~1,100 rpm. All dialed in ... I won't be changing the clutch again in my lifetime.

I drove several 3 pedal 360s and 430s and it's very difficult to engage the clutch and get going at 1,500 rpm or thereabouts.

Hope this helps.

 

Just for clarity, are you saying there is creep even when you are in N or just when in 1st and stopped and you let off the brakes?

 

i had a hard time understanding why adjusting pis takes such a lengthy time.
Maybe I did it wrong myself?
I have the leonardo, all i need to do is to find the PIS value that won't creep and below which it creeps. Starting at 4.5. Then verified by leonardo that some rotation is 0.(forgot what it is)
usually takes me just a few tries, absolutely less than 10 tries and less than 30 minutes usually.

 

the lag between gears is greatly reduced,

only thing to remember is go to N at red lights.

if you adjust all way to zero movement, the lag between shifts starts to become too much.

IMHO, and my clutch has over 30k miles on it and still works fine with the creep.

 

The biggest problem with this approach isn't the clutch, it is the gearbox. You are shifting when the clutch isn't fully disengaged. The difference vs a properly set up car isn't worth the cost of a gearbox to me.

 

+1, but 30k on the clutch and no issues is impressive. The creep does improve the shift and engagement, but I can't get past the not being fully disengaged. It's incredible how good the system works and even with no creep, the shifts are very fast.

To Sparetireless: have you ever changed the gearbox oil? Any metal, shavings, etc.?

 

you just need to go into N at lights.

 

In my opinion, bad advice. Really increases the loads on the synchronizers and other transaxle parts. The equivalent of keeping your left foot on the brake all the time to reduce reaction time. Does that, but also wears out the brakes and creates unneeded heat.

 

It's not set right if it creeps. It's more than just setting PIS. If the clutch thickness setting is not right you will also get this. The wear pecentage is just an extrapolated figure based on PIS and clutch thickness. Even when the clutch is a fresh instal you often see a wear % of 6 or so when it's configured right. With it dragging you are piling heat into the flywheel whenever you aren't moving. Even sat with it in neutral. This heats up the clutch plate and makes matters worse. Get it to someone who knows how to set it right...

 

I am surprised that the mechanic who setup the clutch let the vehicle leave his shop with it acting this way. As others have offered, I would instruct him to reset the clutch to eliminate the creeping.

 

I agree. It is also quite commonly from distorted flywheels. In use they turn into a cereal bowl. The disc wears to that shape and when a new clutch is installed it will never work correctly no matter where you set it. There is great paranoia about resurfacing the flywheels and some do not want to purchase a new one. No one ever measures them for their shape and a large percentage of even the new flywheels are out of spec, sometimes by a lot. 360 flywheel was made to be very light and they warp badly. I have redone a lot of other shops clutch jobs because they just reused the flywheel and never bothered to throw a straight edge across it and measure it.

 

I really would like to agree but experience has taught me otherwise.

 

That why you need to record the PIS reading before replacing clutch and set the clutch at the same reading, before your burn that new clutch ,i bet it smoking also

 

I don't see how that helps. Shifting with the clutch only partially depressed isn't a good idea. It doesn't matter if you are in 1st or N.

If the clutch is set up right, 30k plus isn't a big deal.

 

then your golden