Saving/Shopping for my first "Quality" watch

Have you considered Baume and Mercier? Similat to the Longines, but a bit more upmarket IMO.

Personally I would look into used or a grey market Zentih (a true haute timepiece and you can get a lot for $5k)
You may also want to check out Grand Seiko.

If you're considering used at a budget of $5k you have a lot of options because besides Rolex or some notable exceptions most watches do not resell well.

 

I believe Zenith, like many other watch manufacturers has a MAP. i.e. the authorized dealers can't discount. The watches are available through 3rd party dealers who can offer pretty steep discounts.

 

Here is one;
Chronoswiss Chronoscope Rose Gold HUGE Discount Amazing Complication | eBay

Check ebay 'watch complication' and you can fine tune the cost parameters.

Blancpain makes a 365 day calendar watch that's kind of neat but smallish. Moon phase, while neat looking, is useless unless you are a werewolf.

I'm reverting back to "keep it simple stupid" wanting just a long power reserve and perhaps date.

 

Zenith would be a good choice, as would be a Tudor

Or a secondhand panerai

Check out blowers jewellers a UK website to give you some ideas on secondhand watches. They are Good people to do business with

Regards

Michael


Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

 

With all due respect, Longines was a respected brand a long time ago.

If it's going to be your first real luxury watch, at this price range I can't see other better choices than a Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch (with hesalite glass), a Rolex 114300 (the new Oyster in 39mm), or perhaps a Tudor Black Bay or Tudor Black Shield.

 

My advice is to get a watch from an established brand that can be serviced when the need arises.

My first real purchase when I landed a job that paid real money was a Ventura V-matic chronograph. Titanium, automatic, midsize case, individually certified COSC, crystal backside with beautifully polished and anodized movements. Unique muffin shaped design. But it was a small company, and only around for a few years. Now I can't get it serviced because local watch shops can't get the gasket kit for it, even though the movement is a common, albeit, polished ETA. It no longer keeps time correctly, and the water buffalo strap is falling apart. The watch is now sadly useless.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

The gaskets will affect water resistance, but why can't the movement be serviced? One has nothing to do with the other.
FYI, gaskets can be made, sealant can be used in some instances, generics gaskets can be used and modified as needed.

 

Get a Swatch SISTEM 51 to quench your thirst for a some more saving time. Fantastic feat of engineering, very quirky, very wearable, very well respected amongst the watch community. Very cheap.

For your bigger purchase, I feel your short-list concentrates on style over substance; in terms of you may like the look but you should question if there is a better watch at that price point, especially because you don't seem so concerned about the 'luxury' element which is great and refreshing.

Look at brands like Sinn (if you like IWC), Doxa, Anonimo (if you like Panerai), Bremont, Zenith. The Omega Speedmaster Pro is one of the best value for money purchases you can make.

Don't get too hung up on the servicing element. Yes, important, but drastically less important once you've found a good watchmaker.

Edit: also, I must give a special mention to Tudor in terms of watch vs price point equation. I am not a big luxury guy and do prefer a fantastic quality watch. That said, for me I had to include Rolex in to my collection because of everything Rolex is as a watchmaker. I can not live without my Rolex Submariner, to me it is perfection, and one watch that has spent considerable time on my wrist is the Tudor Black Bay. It is the closest thing you can get and IMO is potentially cooler as you will fly under the radar. It is also priced to buy!

 

I suggest a slightly worn, Rolex Sub.

Classic, great value for money, goes with everything from sport to dress, will hold its value.

Can be worn on a traditional braslette or on a NATO strap.

This is a highly respected vintage Rolex dealer...and he has several under your budget.

https://www.hqmilton.com/timepieces/g3pj7432/1986-rolex-submariner-16800-8016

 

Have you gotten some good information?

 

Nice! I had been looking at used Rolex watches and these are definitely priced better than what I have been seeing.

 

Frederique Constant: overpriced brand that will depreciate like a falling stone. You can buy much better stuff for the same price.

Nomos: I don't know the brand.

The ORIS Artelier 112 is very nice, reasonable price, but again, you will lose 40% as soon as you leave the shop. I would but it used.

Panerai Luminor Titanio PAM 176: buy used.

Baume Mercier is like F.C., not worth it.

IWC Portuguese Hand Wind 8 Day: best choice in my humble opinion. Reasonably priced, and is a respected brand.

MeisterSinger Singulator: THIS! Good upcoming brand, very well crafted, elegant design. The only downside: will depreciate very much.

Sorry if I being pedantic on $$$ but I simply love the fact that apart from being dependable, tough, and beautiful, a Rolex holds or lose very little of its value.

 

What exactly do IWC and MeisterSinger do that FC and B&M don't, and how does that effect the value proposition? Or is this a purely subjective opinion?

 

It’s tough to sort through all the branding, marketing, and misinformation in the watch industry. Wristwatches now are a fashion accessory more than a functional item, and like fashion on the couture end, watchmaking can rise to an art. Having a background in both watchmaking, tailoring, and bespoke clothing, I see many similarities. If we break down the comparison a bit more, there are several levels of both industries:

On the low end of mass produced questionable quality merchandise, there’s the H&M, or Old Navy of the fashion world which compares with the kiosk watches and cheap fashion quartz watches, low quality design and engineering only meant to satisfy a certain look.

Moving up are J Crew, or a large in house brand like found at a Nordstrom, still mass produced but with some quality control and better materials, akin to a Casio, Timex, or some lower end mechanical watches.

Department store fashion like Armani Collezioni, D&G, Polo, etc. use very good material, have good quality control, and spend a lot of money promoting a name. In the end, what they’re trying to produce is something that is appealing to a discerning eye, but is also machine made while trying to appear like they are using old world hand techniques. On the watch end, this is where Longines, Tudor, and many others come in. Strong brands with quality materials, but there is not much classic watchmaking involved.

There is a high end of fashion, Tom Ford, Hermes, etc. that have craftspeople that are highly skilled and do not compromise on materials or technique. Watch brands that are in house like Rolex, Patek, and others fall into this category. Everything is made in house, many items are still made using classic hand techniques, but a big portion of the value is in the marketing of the name.

At the extreme end is couture and bespoke fashion where the craft can rise to art. Watch RW Smith and others produce pieces like this. By hand, no compromise, very expensive.

Where this gets confusing, is much like fashion, there can be a lot of overlap, and there are brands that like to promote themselves as hand made, or old world technique, when that technique is actually replicated using modern machinery. This happens at most levels of fashion and watchmaking. It is one of the knocks against Rolex for many years, although they are not alone.

Aesthetics also play a major role in value - to you. If you find a watch or brand that appeals to you, that’s the most important factor. There's also the history of the brand, and the functions and functionality of the timepiece. It can be very satisfying to wear something historic or from a historic maker, or a GMT that functions for traveling, a diver with a rotating bezel, a tank that flips closed for battle, etc.

Most watch brands now have youtube channels which detail their watchmaking techniquees. Researching these will give you a good idea of where a watch brand falls in this hierarchy. I would suggest looking into Hajime Asaoka, and RW smith for some of their excellent videos detailing classic technique. A watch is a technical instrument using the skills of: an engineer, a micro machinist, a jeweler, an artist, and a skilled technician. You will pay for the materials, the skill, the design, as well as the brand and it’s marketing.

Best of luck with the search, this is half the fun.

 

I know you want a "complex" watch as an engineer but would a skeletal watch be just as special. To me see the workings and machinery is more appealing than knowing what phase the moon is in.
Glashutte Original is a bit above your self imposed price range but they are well respected with those in the know.
This is kind of neat;
FSOT: Glashutte Original Panoinverse XL - Rolex Forums - Rolex Watch Forum

I've always thought of GO as "The poor man's Lange"

 

Ping Darth:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/other-parts-collectibles/540259-tudor-blowout.html

I haven't because I don't want to know what a "blowout" price is.

 

I personally am not a Panerai fan. Don't know why.

Take your time. (cough)

 

Why not, what are you afraid of?